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I swapped to a dual.
Well since this post has been brought back from the dead I guess I'll ask here, Ive been wanting to doing the scarebird front disk upgrade, but my 65 Fury is on a manual drum set up. So what Booster and Master Cylinder do I need? and where should I pull the vacaum from? Do I need to drill a hole in the intake manifold or is there another way?
When I converted my 66 300 I used the 1967 -68 Disc brake booster and master cylinder and converted it to the dual braking system with an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line.
I did a dual MC. I also used a proportioning valve. That did not stop the car. By all means, get a dual diaphragm power booster from an Imperial with disk brakes. That works.
Will this conversion allow you to retain 14" factory steel wheels?
rexus, nope it'll only clear 15" wheels.
I'm pulling off my drums and finding that a previous owner recently had them all serviced. Kind of hurts to chuck out fresh brake pads :/
Got the discs and calipers installed fine, now to the MC and booster. I noticed that the push rod on the old MC/booster assembly is about 0.75-1" longer than the '67 Fury one I bought from RockAuto. Also, the original had a 1" rod past the bolt hole on the pushrod to trigger the brake light switch. Jake, I'm curious what you did about these two issues.
There's a chance that the length will be fine and the pedal will just be a bit further out. I could also just tack weld a little rod onto the end of the pushrod to hit the brake pedal switch. But I wonder if I can swap pushrods?
That is exactly what I did, I welded a stub off the end of the pushrod for the brake lights. My MC pushrod was adjustable, so I had no issues there.
Huh, my MC doesn't seem to have nearly enough adjustment. I got an A1 Cardone 503520 off a 1968 Fury. Do you happen to recall which MC you went with?
Edit: Just double checked the Scarebird instructions and they recommend the '67-'68 master cylinder. I just assumed that included the booster.
Edit 2: Both boosters ('68 and original '64) are 8.875" single diaphragms so I might just try the old booster and the new MC.
Is your brake light switch or bracket holding it adjustable?
I have a 68 fury upgraded with scareBird disc kit on the front. I just recently swapped mc's for one from dr. Diff. His mc uses a bracket to mount in the stock location pushing the mc (and push rod) out about 1/4 inch. This created a gap between the brake light switch and pushrod. Fortunately the bracket holding brake light switch was adjustable. It was a pain in the butt to crawl under everything to adjust, but it was pretty simple to bring the switch down a bit.
I don't know about your 64 but thought I'd throw it out there.
calipers on wrong side?
sczuylevch, I believe upgrading the master cylinder isn't optional. I don't know what the diameter of the stock drum master is but the calipers are designed for a master of just over an inch, maybe 1.125". I suspect you'll have to upgrade the master to the '67-'68 one. There's also an issue of brake fluid capacity.
The mystery in my mind is the booster. I'll be using the stock single booster with an 8.875" diaphragm. I have a sneaking suspicion that this won't be adequate for the discs but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. When I finally drive this car again in the next 5-10 years (ugh hopefully not) I'll let you know how it feels.
I got a MC from a Chrysler that has disks on the front. 67 300 works great. Sorry I did not get back sooner.
The main reason that the 1967 - 1968 disc brake master cylinder and Power booster are so rare now is that they are the best design for converting a drum brake vehicle to disc brakes. You may have to go thru hell to find them and have them rebuilt, but there in none better that will fit older "C" bodies.
I have a 1969 plymouth fury with 4 wheel power drums.my master cylinder is a 2 chamber can i use that with the scarebird conversion.
no 69furyIII you cannot, but the replacement MC is like $15 bucks, so no biggie.
be sure to bench bleed the new MC per instructions.
try not to die -
The reservoir for the front brakes is to small and may run out of fluid as the pads wear. Plus it has residual pressure valves in front and back you will only need them on the rear brakes.
I did this swap a few weeks ago and needed a booster and MC. So I went with a CPP unit for disc/drum brakes, comes with a new proportioning valve. After finally tracking down and fixing all the air leaks, I now have a problem with the brake calipers not releasing all the pressure put to them or the MC not releasing pressure. Just going around the block brakes were not releasing and heating up. once I got home I cracked the bleeder screw and let off some pressure and they turn easier but not like they should. Talked to a buddy and he says he had to turn the rotors or take an 1/8th" off of each pad to give it more room(this was on a Chev or Ford tho). Any of you guys experience this problem? I would like to fix this and get her back on the road.
no and no - don't turn rotors or cut the pads. somewhere you are keeping the line pressure, or the brakes are not totally releasing each time you use them and it is multiplying until there is enough to start binding up the wheels, etc.
I totally agree with Saylor on this one, DO NOT CUT YOUR ROTORS OR PADS. As he mentioned you are holding pressure somewhere in the system.
First question, did you replace all the brake lines and hoses? If not start looking in those areas. Start at each wheel, apply the brakes until they drag, then open a line until they turn freely. also look to see if you plumbed the master cylinder correctly. If you hooked the front brakes to the rear brake side of the master, the residual valve will hold the brakes on. Keep us posted.