Shutting down mid-turn?

[Zezima]

So this happened a few times, and the first time it happened I wasn't sure what to chalk it up to and figured maybe it was a fluke or isolated incident, so I let it go, but now that it's happened a few times, there definitely seems to be an issue somewhere somehow, though I can't fathom what it might be and unfortunately I can't provide too much detail since it happens so fast and it seems pretty unpredictable and hard to replicate, but I'm getting a feel for the conditions now.

What seems to be going on is during low speed turns after driving around for a while (10-30+ minutes maybe), the car will just shut off mid-turn, and I don't know why, and I can't even begin to guess as to why. It easily starts up again with a crank so it's not like it's leaving me stranded or causing any major issues since it amounts to an inconvenience considering how quick it happens and how quick you can get it back on, but it's still very strange it's happening at all. And for the first time, when I was going in reverse in a straight line for some distance, it shut off again like it would for those turns, and it's never shut off in any other driving conditions and otherwise seems to run about as smooth and responsively as you can expect, so I'm pretty baffled. It's not a fuel or oil issue that I would know of, each time it's happened I know it's got healthy amounts of both, so if it's a matter of fluids sloshing around I don't think it would be that either, no less at such low speeds.

I've really got nothing on this and I've never even heard of this happening before with other people, so this would be interesting if anyone has any ideas. The turns are all between 5-10 mph at most, and the long line reverse probably never exceeded 10 mph either. I don't know what other information would be relevant, but that's all I've got so far. Let me know if anyone has any ideas for this puzzle.

 

[thethee]

Year, make, and model? Does it shut off instantly or does it sputter? Electronic ignition or points?

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

The fuel level in your carb is much too low. In turns (and reverse) the fuel sloshes away from the main jet in the floor of the carb and it's "sucking air" and thus the shutoff. Adjust the float bowl level up to factory specs.

When I worked at a Chrysler dealership during my college days ('76ish) we had slant sixes in Volares shutting off in turns. I discovered that the levels were very low and this was caused by the newly introduced "Viton-tipped" fuel needle instead of plain steel. The float level was properly set (probably set quite low, this was during the band-aid era of fixes for emissions) at the manufacturer, but once installed the tip would expand ever-so-slightly in the gasoline (I theorized), forcing the level down to extremely low. The cars would start and run just fine, but in a turn (and on the one-barrel slants, I think it was just a right or a left turn, not both) it would sputter and/or stall. I remember that we would sometimes have new cars on the transporter that wouldn't start (a squirt of ether fired them right up) , and that turned out to be because they were either nose up or nose down (can't remember which) and that would uncover the jet. This was my clue to remove the top of the carb and have a look at the fuel level. I'd adjust the float...problem gone.

The dealership had me fill out a "tech bulletin" form to document this discovery and it was sent to Detroit, somehow, somewhere. I didn't not receive a massive bonus check from Chrysler, nor did they offer to pay for the rest of my engineering school years. Ungrateful bastards.....I might have saved them millions in warranty work!

Hopefully you have a similar problem. It's the only one that makes sense.

I wonder if @Davea Lux could comment on this for historical perspective.

 

[65Port]

I am betting that those turns are sharper turns at 5-10 mph rather than the slight turns when at speed.
Maybe a wire or something is being moved/grabbed/pinched? Since this falls into the "could be anything" category, try putting one side of the car up on a ramp and see if it shuts off. Then do the other side if it stays running. This will confirm if there is a fuel level issue in the carb as Trace suggested.

The only other thing I can advise is to start it, pop the hood and with a piece of wood, gently move wires around near the coil/distributor and see if she dies out. You could also use a separate under hood fuel supply to rule out the fuel system. Let us know how you make out.

I had a similar issue with a loose AND dirty battery connection. Batt tied down?

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I am betting that those turns are sharper turns at 5-10 mph rather than the slight turns when at speed.
Maybe a wire or something is being moved/grabbed/pinched? Since this falls into the "could be anything" category, try putting one side of the car up on a ramp and see if it shuts off. Then do the other side if it stays running. This will confirm if there is a fuel level issue in the carb as Trace suggested.

The only other thing I can advise is to start it, pop the hood and with a piece of wood, gently move wires around near the coil/distributor and see if she dies out. You could also use a separate under hood fuel supply to rule out the fuel system. Let us know how you make out.

I had a similar issue with a loose AND dirty battery connection. Batt tied down?

Agree....wiggling the wires are simple and useful diagnostics to try before digging into your carb.

 

[Milo]

Sometimes a bad coil will do that

 

[Razbo]

Back in 1971 my girlfriend's '66 Ford 289 2bbl began to stall out on low speed turns on city streets. Used my Dad's '57 Ford shop manual and discovered her carburetor was missing a dashpot. Went to a nearby dealer and put one on. Problem solved. Car ran great for her and the next owner for ten years. Apparently someone doing a tuneup took the dashpot off and didn't replace it.

 

[Big_John]

I would check float level too.

That said, before tearing into the carb, I'd check the fuel pump. It's easy to do... Disconnect the fuel line at the filter and stick a piece of rubber hose to an empty soda bottle. Disconnect the coil wire and have someone crank the engine over while you watch for good fuel flow. It should fill a 16 oz soda bottle about halfway in 10 seconds or less. If it doesn't, bad pump or if it's a big block, could be a bad pump push rod.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

So.....what's the verdict on your stalling issue?

 

[65Port]

Latest update is that he is no longer taking any turns.. ok I am kidding..



Let us know, inquiring minds want to know!