Starter gap 318

stu’s68furyiiirat

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I have a mini starter off a 97 dodge 5.2 I was putting it in a now it’s got a gap any suggestions would be great flush at the top I know bottom bolt is loose and I took bracket off from trans to motor still no luck

IMG_3562.jpeg


IMG_3563.jpeg
 
Ok if that don’t fix it then what
Does your transmission have an inspection plate you can remove to look in there and see where the friction is or isn't? I had this happen for a hot second with my 727, but it just took some jockying around AND I had to 'machine' the mating surface of my mini torque starter to get the flywheel to engage more gooder.
 
Ok if that don’t fix it then what
Take starter out and take picture of starter mating surface from the end or sides (mo'pics, mo'better)
With the starter out take picture(s) of starter opening.

Is the tin transmission splash shield distorted at all? It really doesn't matter much, you would hear it if it was bad and rubbing on the torque converter flex-plate bolts (common).

Looking at your transmission cooler line where it goes into the transmission by the brass fitting it looks like a improper bend (kink/flattened). Those bends need to be done with a bending mandrel to keep the fluid passage round. A lot of fluid goes through that line under pressure and any restriction is not good.


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I have a mini starter off a 97 dodge 5.2 I was putting it in a now it’s got a gap any suggestions would be great flush at the top I know bottom bolt is loose and I took bracket off from trans to motor still no luck



View attachment 598283
I suggest you
1 Remove the starter
2 Remove the torque converter cover in your 2nd picture. Below
img_3563-jpeg.jpg

3 Trial install the starter and see if the back of the starter is hitting the bell housing before the starter mounts can seat against the side of the bell housing
4 You may have to grind off some of the back of the starter
 
i've bent and broken the starter nose on those before . is yours okay ? if so , maybe the nose is getting held out from plunging into that stop in the bell housing of your trans , and i note a thin bracket under your starter mounting , should that be there ? i think it should be on the starter fastener on top of your starter .
 
Take starter out and take picture of starter mating surface from the end or sides (mo'pics, mo'better)
With the starter out take picture(s) of starter opening.

Is the tin transmission splash shield distorted at all? It really doesn't matter much, you would hear it if it was bad and rubbing on the torque converter flex-plate bolts (common).

Looking at your transmission cooler line where it goes into the transmission by the brass fitting it looks like a improper bend (kink/flattened). Those bends need to be done with a bending mandrel to keep the fluid passage round. A lot of fluid goes through that line under pressure and any restriction is not good.


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What should be there for transmission etc my first Plymouth/mopar any advice would be great on fittings or new lines
 
What should be there for transmission etc my first Plymouth/mopar any advice would be great on fittings or new lines
CONFUSED.QUESTION.gif Hmmm I think the kinked line is secondary to your starter problem, best to get that sorted and running before you concentrate on the line.

But if you must... examine your lines to see if they ****** it up anywhere else too, (or if there is any rubber hose patches). You can go from anywhere like giving it a easy squeeze with pliers (I'd suggest a fairly large set of Channellock's, start small then go bigger if no results) to vise grips depending on how squished it is, remember you just want to open up the tube passage for flow. Removing and replacing of the lines can be done with the engine in place but I'd suggest doing it with a lift and jacking the engine up plus you'll have to do all the other necessary unbolting of ancillary parts like fan shroud (if you have one) and exhaust etc. to get "plenty of room to work with" (not really for the light hearted) Best experience I've had is pull them out through the front as the bends to the radiator make it a little PITA going towards the rear.
Doing all this on your back in the driveway with jackstands is well... :BangHead::mad:

You can take the tube out and hammer some roundness back into it with a very small ballpeen hammer, tappy tappy type hits, nothing more as tubing like this is a one time bend situation as the metal will get fatigued and crack being 'worked' too much. (torch heat can be your friend here)

As far as buying *NEW* pre-bent lines for a C-Body, maybe someone else can help you on where you can get them IDK. I think the closest set to (maybe) fit would be a 'B' body... You can bend up your own but that takes mucho talent and you need a pretty good un-bent set for a pattern for best results. (plus the mandrel tools)


.
 
View attachment 598553 Hmmm I think the kinked line is secondary to your starter problem, best to get that sorted and running before you concentrate on the line.

But if you must... examine your lines to see if they ****** it up anywhere else too, (or if there is any rubber hose patches). You can go from anywhere like giving it a easy squeeze with pliers (I'd suggest a fairly large set of Channellock's, start small then go bigger if no results) to vise grips depending on how squished it is, remember you just want to open up the tube passage for flow. Removing and replacing of the lines can be done with the engine in place but I'd suggest doing it with a lift and jacking the engine up plus you'll have to do all the other necessary unbolting of ancillary parts like fan shroud (if you have one) and exhaust etc. to get "plenty of room to work with" (not really for the light hearted) Best experience I've had is pull them out through the front as the bends to the radiator make it a little PITA going towards the rear.
Doing all this on your back in the driveway with jackstands is well... :BangHead::mad:

You can take the tube out and hammer some roundness back into it with a very small ballpeen hammer, tappy tappy type hits, nothing more as tubing like this is a one time bend situation as the metal will get fatigued and crack being 'worked' too much. (torch heat can be your friend here)

As far as buying *NEW* pre-bent lines for a C-Body, maybe someone else can help you on where you can get them IDK. I think the closest set to (maybe) fit would be a 'B' body... You can bend up your own but that takes mucho talent and you need a pretty good un-bent set for a pattern for best results. (plus the mandrel tools)


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I got the starter fixed it was running and driving I just torn parts off during winter ❄️ to start on it during spring also just got a a mid lift I put oil pump timing chain etc on already not even ten 10mins on it just trying to make more dependable you know
 
I got the starter fixed it was running and driving I just torn parts off during winter ❄️ to start on it during spring also just got a a mid lift I put oil pump timing chain etc on already not even ten 10mins on it just trying to make more dependable you know
Yea you don't wanna have a trans cooler line blow out on ya especially at speed on the highway, I know I had a added on cooler low grade rubber hose blow out once on me, not fun having ATF cover your windshield at 100+mph.

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