Stock 383 2 bbl to 4 bbl swap.

make sure it is in park. DAMHIK lol

the neutral safety is so that you can not start it in gear. it lives off the side of the trans IIRC.
 
make sure it is in park. DAMHIK lol

the neutral safety is so that you can not start it in gear. it lives off the side of the trans IIRC.
Did that. I also shifted through all the gears several times and tried starting it while doing so as well.

I didn't really mess with much wiring in this whole project other than the wires at the distributor, AC compressor area, but I had to add ignition power to the electric choke which I got from the fuse panel.
 
can you jump it from the starter relay?

was kind of hoping to see how you set your kickdown linkage up
 
can you jump it from the starter relay?

was kind of hoping to see how you set your kickdown linkage up

Don't worry, Ill post pics of the linkage once everything is up and running.

I may have found the problem with the "homemade" starter disable circuit I put in. I was able to eventually get it to turn over by bypassing that circuit.

In the process of trying to get it started and what not, I found that I had incorrectly hooked up the coil....cooked the wire going into the distributor. So now I need to replace that first, then I'll get it started, then back to pics and fun stuff!!
 
I got the coil wire that had burnt up replaced. triple checked my wiring and got all that problem straightened out and the engine fired right up. Somehow my reversed wiring on the coil might have been causing the starting problem?

I also trickle charged the battery all night and day since it was pretty low. Never even had to do anything to my "homemade" device. Three starts fired up each time.

Now the problem is that my new fuel line is leaking at the carb and on the opposite end where it comes out of the pump.

I tried white tape, yellow tape and no tape.
Still leaks!

What is the correct way to install fuel lines?
 
Fuel lines are NO longer leaking!!

Car IS running! ...and sounds pretty bad *** too!
 
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Valley pan and burritos installed.
 
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Had to modify these two brackets as shown with the white marks.
 
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Now they'll fit and I can paint them again!

These are the AC brackets, so If you dont have AC, then you're already on the road.
A lot of extra time went into modifying for that.
 
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This bracket needed adjustment as well. I forgot to snap a pic with it out. but in the final pics you should be able to see how I reshaped it.

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The rest of assembly is just the reverse of removal now.

I straightened out the linkage arm and you can now see the throttle bracket is flattened out with the bottom curled up more.

I replaced all the fuel lines. Carter AFB oem style lines were a direct match up for the 1406. So that worked out good. I had to use some rubber hose to mate up to the fuel filter, but I made those connections as short as possible.

I also have a short stretch coming off the pump to the main supply line, but I wrapped it in a heat wrap.

So hopefully I won't see any vapor lock issues anymore.
Time will tell..

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If anyone wants to see any more pics, just let me know. The hood is still up.

I was able to get the fuel leak stopped by working the fitting back and forth, slowly pulling it in a little more tighter til the leak stopped. NO pipe sealant used.

The engine is louder than I expected but sounds really good and healthy.

In the process I had the valve covers off to work out some oil leaks. Looks like all but one spot got sealed up. One of the lower bolts still has a small puddle forming around it.

A MOPAR buddy of mine stopped by to help get it tuned up and running right. We ended up pulling the top of the carb off and amking sure the floats a other parts are clean and can move freely. He set the mixture screws and got it idling good too.

I'll drive it tonight and update again if all goes well. Still need to find an air cleaner....
 
Somebody out there finally got it right.


The devil is in the details.


That first circle you made - I tried refinishing that piece with plasti-dip but it basically cooked/melted off a few years ago. This time I used a wide piece of HeatShrink. It came out really good this time. Not sure how the factory does it. But I figure this is better than just painting it black...

Not sure what you're looking at in the third circle. But ill just assume its good!
 
A few things for the "While you're at it.." list-

-Spark plugs, cables, cap and rotor. Might as well get them out of your way and replace them if needed too.
-Fuel lines, filter.
-Thermostat, since taking the upper hose off helps clear some room.
-valve cover gaskets, if they leak.

And throw some cardboard on the floor.
 
Here's a close up of the linkage arm and throttle bracket. The arm is straight and the bracket bent up to flatten it out, the bottom curl part is curled up more to allow it to sit evenly on the manifold as well.

Torch and bench vise are handy.

Screenshot_2016-11-17-14-06-21.png
 
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