Stock 383 2 bbl to 4 bbl swap.

Be sure to use a small amount of silicone on the front and rear ends of the valley tray, especially the four corners nearest the heads. Bottom side of tray of course. Do a trial run with the intake and the 3 bolts with the load spreader, aluminum intakes for some reason don't have the same clearance as the cast intakes, modifications to the chamfer of the load spreader may be necessary and overall height of the outer most spreader bolts may be needing a fix.
 
Tonight's progress- spent most of the time reworking the leaking valve covers and cleaning all the surfaces with brake clean. I used some black rtv around the suspect areas on the heads before installing valve covers.

Trial fit of the intake led to having to grind out a notch in the front driver side fin. An old hand me down right angle grinder make quick work out of that.
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Stole the brake booster vacuum fitting off my old intake and shined it up with steel wool.
 
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The next issue is with the load spreader. The new intake hits the bolt hole that's painted yellow. So that will need to be ground down. My dilemma is- grind it in place or pull the entire AC compressor off to remove the load spreader to put it in a vise and then grind it. Any thoughts?

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Would it be easier to remove the thickness from the intake? Is your ac currently holding a charge? Would you really want to put that big ugly V-twin back on after you see how good it looks off??
 
Would it be easier to remove the thickness from the intake? Is your ac currently holding a charge? Would you really want to put that big ugly V-twin back on after you see how good it looks off??

The area that I would have to grind on the intake is the thin wall of the front most air passage . So I would likely end up with a hole in it to get the clearance that I need.

I have no idea if there's a charge on the AC. it doesn't work, compressor seems to be locked up.

And yes, it would look great AND be easier to work on without all that stuff under the hood, lol. I think I'd prefer to leave it there though.
 
I wouldn't do any grinding over an open engine like that. I'd remove all the ac hardware if it's completely non operational as it would have to come off anyway to get rebuilt.
 
Does anyone have a good picture of the linkage??

I'm waiting on the burrito warming pads before I get the intake installed and was trying to piece together all the linkage but I'm just not sure what to do.

I have the 1406, my old WWC and both the Edelbrock 1481 and 8021 kits. So I should be able to make something work...Just need to see it.
 
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I sure wish there was to way to know what parts I'd need before hand. Everythings all tore apart and I'm still trying to figure things out...
 
Got the AC bracket prepped for surgery.
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Not the prettiest but it'll clear now.
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Next I had too modify the throttle bracket as well for the taller manifold. Marked in yellow.
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Looks good and it fits!
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Plus, my burritos showed up!!
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+1 I had to cut a corner off that throttle bracket also to fit the weiand 8008 intake.

keep at it u almost there homeslice.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
Got the proper fitting now-
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And I rebuilt this ground cable-

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I also got some parts stripped and repainted to match the valve covers, had to evacuate the basement for a while...once the parts dry I'll be able to start reassmbly.
 
I got everything re-installed over the weekend. Went to fire it up for the first time and it won't start....
So with that-
Battery cables are good and solid.
Battery has a good charge.
Starter is not engaging.
Starter relay is getting power when I turn the key over.
Starter relay is fairly new.
Starter is fairly new.
All other 12v stuff works.

There was some talk on here about a "Neutral switch"??

Can anyone add some input?

Once I get it running, I'll update with the rest of the pics/procedure.
Thanks!!
 
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