Electrical troubleshooting isn't as hard as you may think. A couple of basic YouTube video's and a little experimentation and you'll be an expert in no time.
Stong battery, NO headlights, NO start???
- Thread starter TMB2
- Start date
78Brougham
"Chump"
Run a jumper from the bulkhead connector to the ignition switch. As long there is power on the inside of the car. The one that goes to the ammeter usually red or brown and very heavy gauge, it runs from the bulkhead connector to the ammeter then to the ignition switch. It will be the fattest wire. Turn on the key, then jump the starter terminals on top of the starter or the starter relay to get it to crank. That way you won't overload the temporary jumper wire. Have a helper pump the gas and it should fire. Get it into your shop and carry on with the fix from there. Oh yeah, remove the jumper wire immediately afterwards. That will also prove that the ammeter is the problem.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
I'll try to bring my FSM to work tomorrow and scan the electrical for you.
TMB2
New Member
THANKS very much but... I do have an original FSM with wiring diagrams. All set on this end and plan on spending the weekend getting it running!
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
I'm in agreement with Big_John -
Your horn works because the wiring doesn't go through the amp gauge. It gets battery feed from the starter solenoid and grounds through the turn signal switch.
Did you take your bulkhead connector apart yet? If not you need to inspect those connections. A very small Phillips screw drive will help you to release the clips on the sides to get it apart. I recommend disconnecting the battery prior to taking the bulkhead connector apart. Then connect it to check for power. Disconnect and reinstall connector.
On the inside you will need to back probe the largest red wire coming out of the connector. If you've got juice there disconnect the battery because it's time to pull the instrument cluster. It really isn't that bad. Take some baggies so that you can mark them and put the screws in them or tape them to the part with painters tape in the hole they came out of. It seems like every part you remove has a different type screw.
Once you have the bezels removed you'll need to remove the lower steering wheel cover to disconnect the shift indicator before trying to remove the instrument cluster. Once you have the left side of the cluster pulled out a little you can connect the battery and check to see if you've got power at the back of the gauge. Don't get too excited if you do. Moving the cluster around can improve the connection. If you're good at working in tight spaces you might be able to check the nuts on the back of the amp gauge without fully removing the cluster. (I say this because getting the trip meter cable rerouted is a little fun.)
On the back of the amp gauge there is a fiber backer that goes over both of the studs, then a nut that could very well be loose from shrinkage, then the wires, then another nut. In my car once I tightened the inner nuts all was well.
How far away is your storage?
- Stop poking holes in your wires.
- Do a resistance check on your fusible link.
- Everything else too.
Your horn works because the wiring doesn't go through the amp gauge. It gets battery feed from the starter solenoid and grounds through the turn signal switch.
Did you take your bulkhead connector apart yet? If not you need to inspect those connections. A very small Phillips screw drive will help you to release the clips on the sides to get it apart. I recommend disconnecting the battery prior to taking the bulkhead connector apart. Then connect it to check for power. Disconnect and reinstall connector.
On the inside you will need to back probe the largest red wire coming out of the connector. If you've got juice there disconnect the battery because it's time to pull the instrument cluster. It really isn't that bad. Take some baggies so that you can mark them and put the screws in them or tape them to the part with painters tape in the hole they came out of. It seems like every part you remove has a different type screw.
Once you have the bezels removed you'll need to remove the lower steering wheel cover to disconnect the shift indicator before trying to remove the instrument cluster. Once you have the left side of the cluster pulled out a little you can connect the battery and check to see if you've got power at the back of the gauge. Don't get too excited if you do. Moving the cluster around can improve the connection. If you're good at working in tight spaces you might be able to check the nuts on the back of the amp gauge without fully removing the cluster. (I say this because getting the trip meter cable rerouted is a little fun.)
On the back of the amp gauge there is a fiber backer that goes over both of the studs, then a nut that could very well be loose from shrinkage, then the wires, then another nut. In my car once I tightened the inner nuts all was well.
How far away is your storage?
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
OK
TMB2
New Member
If you can't figure it out by the time you need to get it back to storage, let us know and we can easily tell you how to "hot wire" the car to get it running.
TMB2
New Member
You mean like they do on TV??! Thanks again for all the help!
Mopar Madness
Member
Like we used to do when the parents would leave on a long weekend. But get busted by the neighbors!!!
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
No, the way I would tell you disrupts no original wires, but you shouldn't drive far like this because you won't have lights.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
Any progress?
TMB2
New Member
Did not get to it this weekend. The car is safe & sound in my garage (not where it's normally stored) so at least it's out of the weather.
Will definitely post when I find the problem. Thanks for checking!!
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
You bet.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
Well....?
traintech55
Senior Member
Inquiring minds want to know.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
Anything yet?
He hasn't been back in almost a month.
TMB2
New Member
Guys,
Don't give up on me yet! Very busy the last several weeks - moving our business location and a trip to Road Atlanta and Atlanta Motorsports Park for a couple track days.
The car is in my garage and out of harm's way but will definitely need to be moved to storage soon. Hopefully will get to it in the upcoming weeks.
I PROMISE to post an update once we figure out the problem!
Don't give up on me yet! Very busy the last several weeks - moving our business location and a trip to Road Atlanta and Atlanta Motorsports Park for a couple track days.
The car is in my garage and out of harm's way but will definitely need to be moved to storage soon. Hopefully will get to it in the upcoming weeks.
I PROMISE to post an update once we figure out the problem!
TMB2
New Member
Gentlemen,
Back to this project, finally, but mostly due to wanting to get the car to winter storage.
See the attached pic. This is the back of the amp gauge. We have 12+ volts from the battery through the fusible link to the red terminal on the gauge. We DO NOT have any voltage at the black terminal on the gauge. Checked a couple times, all with the battery connected and the ignition switch on.
As a couple of you mentioned, the gauge is prone to failure and we can "hot wire" the car in order to get it running.
Need your help on this and thanks in advance!
Back to this project, finally, but mostly due to wanting to get the car to winter storage.
See the attached pic. This is the back of the amp gauge. We have 12+ volts from the battery through the fusible link to the red terminal on the gauge. We DO NOT have any voltage at the black terminal on the gauge. Checked a couple times, all with the battery connected and the ignition switch on.
As a couple of you mentioned, the gauge is prone to failure and we can "hot wire" the car in order to get it running.
Need your help on this and thanks in advance!
Similar threads
