Switching pedals from automatic power brakes to manual trans and brake pedal

[MadMez]

I have switched A, B, and E bodies to manual trans now its time for my C body, a 1968 Fury wagon. The A body was the most difficult. How big of a PIA is removing and replacing C body pedals? Any tips? Keep in mind I am much older (and larger) than my other projects.

Thanks for the info

Tim

 

[commando1]

Using the correct pedals, its a straight swap with the same hassles and knucle bleeding of the ones you remember, only way more painful now. There's a correct repop tunnel hump for your car available also from Resto Mike. Find the hen's teeth pedals and Brewsters has everything else.

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[MadMez]

Thanks for all the info. I bought the pedals off of Moparts for $65! Some days you get lucky.

 

[commando1]

There's two styles. Power brake style and manual brake style.

And, dammit, I forgot about the bracket that is WELDED to the stub frame for the ball stud. This part sucks because you have find one or duplicate it and remove the left fender to install it.

Not shown is the C-body only clutch pedal to Z-bar pushrod.

The Z-bar is a C-body only style. There are two of them. A 3 speed Z-bar and a 4 speed Z-bar. Most likely you'll have to modify one from one you can find by shortening or lengthening it AND relocating the arms so that you get the correct travel. I believe for 4 speed C-bodies they are 90 degrees apart.

You'll need the bell housing that has the stud mount location you need. If I recall correctly, all the bell housings that work in a B-body have the right location.

 

[commando1]

Then again, you can go totally hydraulic.........
That has its own steep learning curve.

 

[tdenkler]

Stan, I believe you can use the 60's-70's B-body 6 cylinder Zbar for a C-body. I used it on my 65 300 L 4 speed after someone helped themselves to parts! It was just a tad off and could easily be rewelded correctly but works fine as is.
Any questions, ask Jamie at Passon's.

BTW Resto Mike is located in --- --------?

Tom

 

[commando1]

RestoRICK...
Sorry about that.....
http://www.restorick.com/

It was just a tad off and could easily be rewelded correctly

The length was correct?
What needed to be adjusted? The spacing between the arms or the angle of the arms?

 

[tdenkler]

On "B" where it mounts to "A" he cut and rewelded B @ 1/2 inch down(or left") as you look long ways at A where B mounts.

Clear as mud right!.


B
:
:
A-:-----A

:
cut B here and reweld @ 1/2 inch left(down)

 

[commando1]

So (x+1/2")?.
Lol!! Got it. I think... Doesn't matter.
Not like I'll ever be modifying z-bars ever again.

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[tdenkler]

Best for me to describe it LOL
Cut B where it mounts to A, rotate B @1/2 inch counter clockwise and reweld. Like I said, Jamie at Passons knows how to do it better than I. He might just do a 6 cyl zbar and send to you.
Tom

 

[commando1]

Simple enough. Wish I had known that then. Thanks.

 

[commando1]

You know, in about 8 years, someone's search on Google will land him onto this post trivia and the pics will be gone and he'll :gah:

 

[MadMez]

Thanks, you guys are great. I definately have the manual brake pedals which is fine as I do not like the touchy power brakes. As normal I just wanted to ditch the front drums for discs. Now I am swapping pedals, rebuilding the front suspension, going to manual brakes from power, it just never ends. But I like that.

 

[commando1]

it just never ends. But I like that.

Same here. You can have one car all your life but there's always "just one more thing"