Tail light gremlins

Electrical & Ignition

  1. cbarge

    cbarge World Famous Barge in a Budget FCBO Gold Member

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    The tilt/tele column is a GM unit.
    Broaden your TS switch search for Buick Cadillac and Olds. You may need to swap out tge xonnector but basically same TS switch. It may be cheaper...hopefully.
    As mentioned, check the taillight fuse first.
    Then check for power going into TS swich twsting the appropiate wires for taillights.
    Remove left kick panel access the taillight harness. Check power at harness from ts switch.
    If power is going ibto TS switch but not coming out to taillight harness switch is no good.
    Try this before ripping things apart.
    Hope this helps.
    At the
     
  2. WSP

    WSP New Member

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    Brake light and turn signal problem does sound like a TS switch. My problem was intermittent, probably because broken parts rattled around. Murray Park had REPRODUCTION turn signal switches. It was $125, if I remember correctly, for my nontelescoping/nontilt. The telescoping steering wheel would be different. . Have not had any problems since with mine. I would NOT get a used either.
    Cbarge and others above had a great approach to diagnosis.
     
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  3. marty koirtyohann

    marty koirtyohann Member

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    u r welcomed do u have the service book? do u need me to scan the pages from my 72 book? it would be easyer if i had a email address rather than going trough here my email is ka0mek@sbcglobal.net
     
  4. SPF Required

    SPF Required Active Member

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    I can’t say enough how much I appreciate all the help you all give. I wouldn’t even know where to begin.

    turn signal switch is on its way. I went with the shee mar switch available through rock auto. Murray Park did have a telescope/tilt switch available, but it was much more expensive.

    still trying to figure out the specialty tools to pull the steering wheel and tilt cover. Any and all advice is welcomed.
    Thank you C Body cohorts!
     
  5. SPF Required

    SPF Required Active Member

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    thanks Marty! I do have a 68 book with some good details for the tilt/telescope column disassembly. Thank you for the offer to scan yours though.
     
  6. marty koirtyohann

    marty koirtyohann Member

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    ok u r welcomed
     
  7. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Steering wheel puller is pretty simple and universal. Harbor freight, or if you have an O’reilys parts store (probably others as well) have a tool borrow program. You pay the deposit (price of tool) and use it. Return it and they refund. If you like it and want to keep it they just keep your deposit. I think I bought two different pullers that way. Decent price and decent quality, plus they were Brand new.
     
  8. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Here is what I used for the steering wheel

    B38C20F7-A2E7-4752-A71E-7C73A2234273.jpeg
    They come with or you can use a variety of different bolts for different size holes.
    B38C20F7-A2E7-4752-A71E-7C73A2234273.jpeg image.jpg
     
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  9. Devinism

    Devinism Member FCBO Gold Member

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    And this will help TONS!
    Is this legit? (Turn signal cam)

    I used the "armstrong" method a few years back. Never again. I ended up making something like Ross did.
     
  10. C Sickness

    C Sickness Member

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    I had a similar problem with my car. All the rear lights were dead. It turned out they are all connected by a solder joint in the trunk, in front of the driver's tail light. That joint had cracked and failed. Squeeze it the right way, and I had lights.

    I looked at the wiring diagram, and saw that there is a plug in the driver's kick panel for everything in the rear. The FIRST thing I did was go to that plug and look for voltage, which was there. At that point I knew my dash switches / steering column was good. The problem was somewhere between that plug, and the rear light bulbs.

    BEFORE you go ordering special tools and tearing apart the whole steering column, check what's happening at that plug.
     
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  11. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    You know... This all doesn't make sense to me.

    Yea, maybe one switch or the other goes bad, but not at the same time.

    Here's what i would do... I would find the disconnect plug located in the drivers kick panel (or maybe it's under the threshold trim) and jumper 12 volts to the various lights and see if they work before replacing switches.

    If all that works, I would then test for voltage coming from the corresponding "cavities" in the plug.

    Or maybe even do it the other way around... Check for voltage first. Simple stuff... do it with a jumper wire and a test light, although I prefer a voltmeter.
     
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  12. marty koirtyohann

    marty koirtyohann Member

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    cold solder joint its all part of checking the system'
     
  13. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    This looks to be a case of the fuse clips not supplying steady current to the lighting again. Open the fuse block, then check each fuse on BOTH sides for voltage. Try pressing down a little on them, especially those in the middle with a red/pink wire leading from them. My turn signals and brake lights fail occasionally and its one of the middle fuses feeding the brake light, signals and several dash circuits like the map light. I just press the fuse back down and all is well again. I admit that a 1968 model might be slightly more complex, but I strongly suspect you have an aged fuse block, since you've mentioned a case of their function having been restored before failing again.
     
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