Dodge Monaco & Polara Chrysler 300, Newport Bumper Jack
Maybe?? If the hook isn't right, the jack should be.
Maybe?? If the hook isn't right, the jack should be.
The SAGA Begins - '66 300 Convertible
- Thread starter Ripinator
- Start date
Out of curiosity where is the spare supposed to mount on these cars if there is no bracket and hook location in the trunk? My 66 300 2dr HT has nothing in the trunk to mount a spare so it sits loose. Does your 66 vert have a trunk mount? Mine is the Canadian version so the trunk is a Newport style.
What mine would be like
Versus what I think it should be
What mine would be like
Versus what I think it should be
Most likely, the bracket for the tire mount is missing off the floor. Mine was gone and it seems to be a common issue.
Lift up the mat on the right side and look for signs of where it was.
Here's Dave's 70 trunk (because it was easiest to find) You can just see the bracket. You can buy the bracket on Ebay. I just MIG welded my new one to the floor.
Lift up the mat on the right side and look for signs of where it was.
Here's Dave's 70 trunk (because it was easiest to find) You can just see the bracket. You can buy the bracket on Ebay. I just MIG welded my new one to the floor.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks again, John. I'll hafta check that item tonight. FeeBay is blocked here at work.
Here is an actual picture of mine before I cleaned it up but there never was a bracket welded in. I have the rear defrost option so I was wondering if that has something to do with it.
Didn't mean to jack your thread btw Rip. This has been bugging me for a while about where to place my spare.
Didn't mean to jack your thread btw Rip. This has been bugging me for a while about where to place my spare.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I don't know right now. . . I haven't looked at the car for over a week (I was out of town). I'll check it this weekend, but right off hand, I don't remember seeing a loop / mount on the floor of my car. Stay tuned.
Geez.. For some reason I was thinking convertible.
Ignore what I said.... or possibly, because you had the rear defroster, the tire mounted like the convertible.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Please. . . Feel free to interject all you want. The no-jack / no spare is bugging me too. Hope I can find a correct 14" spare wheel, as well as the jack parts, at Carlisle or somewhere. . .
My spare and jack came from a 68 newport I am parting out which did have the mount and hook so I could weld it in to the 66 but is it the correct thing to do? That is the question I haven't been able to answer.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
So. . . This morning (after owning the car for two weeks and not seeing it all that time), I managed to get into it a little and take care of a couple of maintenance items. I had Earl change the earl: five quarts of Brad Penn 20W-50 and a new WIX racing earl filter. It had a FRAM on it for a very long time. Crushed the damned thing getting it off. I don't think the PO changed the filter when he changed the oil.
And. . . Look what Earl found under the front passenger seat:
When is the last time you had a Schlitz ?
And. . . Look what Earl found under the front passenger seat:
When is the last time you had a Schlitz ?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Also spent some time vacuuming out the trunk and under the front and back seats. Some rusty scale and a lot of other debri was present. I pulled the back seat bottom out of the car, and look what Earl found stuffed into the seat springs:
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
The broadcast sheet is almost totally disintegrated. I managed to carefully remove it from the seat springs and lay it out like a puzzle. Here is what it looks like now:
Fortunately, most of the codes can be determined; however, I sure wish the sheet was in better shape. Anybody got any ideas on how to restore / preserve this important original document ?
Next weekend, I'm gonna pull the front seats out of the car and finish the cleanup of the floor. I'm hoping to at least get a new exhaust system installed and fix the stalling problem I mentioned earlier. There also appears to be a couple of leaks - both with the powers steering pump and an earl leak from somewhere.
Fortunately, most of the codes can be determined; however, I sure wish the sheet was in better shape. Anybody got any ideas on how to restore / preserve this important original document ?
Next weekend, I'm gonna pull the front seats out of the car and finish the cleanup of the floor. I'm hoping to at least get a new exhaust system installed and fix the stalling problem I mentioned earlier. There also appears to be a couple of leaks - both with the powers steering pump and an earl leak from somewhere.
Ahh.. The beer that made Milwaukee famous!
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I have never tried it on a broadcast sheet but you could iron the pieces and reassemble it like a puzzle and laminate it. I don't want to steer you wrong so I hope others will weigh in on this also
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Since I got this car, I've been doing a few things to get it up to snuff with its maintenance and as many of the repairs as I could handle myself. So far I've managed to fix an oil leak at the oil pan drain plug (wrong drain plug), a power steering pump reservoir leak and the installation of a phenolic / wood spacer under the carburetor. Shown below are a few pictures to chronicle these mighty achievements.
Here is the patient ready for surgery. . .
First stab at installing the carburetor spacer was a fail. The spacer I got off E-Pay was for a Holley - not an AFB.
Here is the carb after I installed the spacer. A subsequent long test drive proved the spacer did its job well. No more engine dying like I experienced before upon stopping or in right or left turns. All that nonsense went away. The only issue that remains is that since the spacer is a half inch high, the linkage for the choke is now too short, which keeps the choke wide open all the time. I'm not sure what to do about this. . . The engine is a little hard to start when cold, but once it warms up a little, it starts just fine.
The next repair involved the leaking power steering pump reservoir. In the photo below, you can just barely see the leaked power steering fluid on the lower radiator hose just above the word: "WIX." From what I've read, this wet lower radiator hose is the hallmark of a bad reservoir-to-pump O-ring.
Here is the pump with the reservoir removed and the diagram from the pump rebuild kit. Thankfully, all I needed in the kit was the big O-ring seal. I'm told these pumps are pretty much bullet-proof and will last a long time - unless they are run low / without fluid.
The installation of the new seal is really a piece of cake. Here it is installed:
After I got the new seal installed and the pump put back together, I really had to wrestle with getting the pump mounted and the belt adjusted correctly. I purchased a special tool from Bob Merritt (300 Club, Intl.) and I used it to adjust the belt tension and the pump mount.
The tool shown above allows you to get hold of the power steering pump bracket and and adjust the bracket tension with a torque wrench as shown below:
BUT. . . What nobody tells you (and its not clear in the FSM), the adjustment procedure is a two-step process. First, you gotta adjust the position of the pump on the bracket, so the belt is tight, and then you adjust / torque the the position of the bracket. And there is one more thing: There should be a rubber bumper positioned between the pump housing and the bracket to which the pump mounts. My little rubber bumper was long gone. . . Without the bumper / spacer, the position of the pump on the bracket is incorrect, and it prevents the ability to properly tighten the belt AND also the bracket to which it is mounted. Since I didn't have a replacement rubber spacer, I picked up a little piece of 3/8" plywood and stuck it between the pump and the mounting bracket:
So. . . There it is. . . Most of you all probably know all about how to do the "repairs" shown above, but I think there are a few of you who are just as ignorant as me. . .
Here is the patient ready for surgery. . .
First stab at installing the carburetor spacer was a fail. The spacer I got off E-Pay was for a Holley - not an AFB.
Here is the carb after I installed the spacer. A subsequent long test drive proved the spacer did its job well. No more engine dying like I experienced before upon stopping or in right or left turns. All that nonsense went away. The only issue that remains is that since the spacer is a half inch high, the linkage for the choke is now too short, which keeps the choke wide open all the time. I'm not sure what to do about this. . . The engine is a little hard to start when cold, but once it warms up a little, it starts just fine.
The next repair involved the leaking power steering pump reservoir. In the photo below, you can just barely see the leaked power steering fluid on the lower radiator hose just above the word: "WIX." From what I've read, this wet lower radiator hose is the hallmark of a bad reservoir-to-pump O-ring.
Here is the pump with the reservoir removed and the diagram from the pump rebuild kit. Thankfully, all I needed in the kit was the big O-ring seal. I'm told these pumps are pretty much bullet-proof and will last a long time - unless they are run low / without fluid.
The installation of the new seal is really a piece of cake. Here it is installed:
After I got the new seal installed and the pump put back together, I really had to wrestle with getting the pump mounted and the belt adjusted correctly. I purchased a special tool from Bob Merritt (300 Club, Intl.) and I used it to adjust the belt tension and the pump mount.
The tool shown above allows you to get hold of the power steering pump bracket and and adjust the bracket tension with a torque wrench as shown below:
BUT. . . What nobody tells you (and its not clear in the FSM), the adjustment procedure is a two-step process. First, you gotta adjust the position of the pump on the bracket, so the belt is tight, and then you adjust / torque the the position of the bracket. And there is one more thing: There should be a rubber bumper positioned between the pump housing and the bracket to which the pump mounts. My little rubber bumper was long gone. . . Without the bumper / spacer, the position of the pump on the bracket is incorrect, and it prevents the ability to properly tighten the belt AND also the bracket to which it is mounted. Since I didn't have a replacement rubber spacer, I picked up a little piece of 3/8" plywood and stuck it between the pump and the mounting bracket:
So. . . There it is. . . Most of you all probably know all about how to do the "repairs" shown above, but I think there are a few of you who are just as ignorant as me. . .
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
Its nice to get all those fiddly things out of the way doesn't it? I also like that tool for adjusting the power steering tension. Is there a link where you can purchase these things?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Well. . . The Saga Continues. . .
Last night I discovered my gas tank has a leak, and its got a lotta crud laying around in the bottom. I can't believe I drove the car all the way from NC and around home, ever since. Since I planned to drop the tank and replace the fuel gauge sending unit anyway, I guess the timing is good.
I looked up replacement tanks, and it appears there are three tanks available for a '66 300: a non-vented tank, a tank with one vent and another with two. I think the tank I need is the non-vented one. Does anybody from the collective know which tank I should get? Here is a link to the tank I'm looking at:
1966-1973 Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth Tank w/o Vents CR20A: Auto City Classic
Last night I discovered my gas tank has a leak, and its got a lotta crud laying around in the bottom. I can't believe I drove the car all the way from NC and around home, ever since. Since I planned to drop the tank and replace the fuel gauge sending unit anyway, I guess the timing is good.
I looked up replacement tanks, and it appears there are three tanks available for a '66 300: a non-vented tank, a tank with one vent and another with two. I think the tank I need is the non-vented one. Does anybody from the collective know which tank I should get? Here is a link to the tank I'm looking at:
1966-1973 Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth Tank w/o Vents CR20A: Auto City Classic
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I checked the FSM (which I shoulda done in the first place), and it refers to the fuel tank as having a vent that should be checked to be sure it is clear, etc. If its not clear, the tank would implode. I guess I'll order the vented tank. . .
Rip how and the hell did I miss your thread. Just finished reading it all, quite the saga. I would check the measurement of your tank. Our '66 is different than '67 and newer, so I believe that ad is wrong. We have discussed this alot in the past.
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