Thinking about a stroker

[TNT440]

I'm thinking about building a stroker for my 66 300. Other than the 383 that is currently in the car, I have another 383 block and a 400 block. I was thinking about a 451 or a 512. I was hoping to get some opinions, I know there will be a lot. What I am hoping for is something that is very street friendly but with good torque at the bottom end to help get this big car moving. It will never see a race track. I understand that the right heads are also key to optimize benefits from stroker. From what I have been reading, cam selection has a lot to do with determining how streetable the engine is. Not sure what the best torque converter would be. Rear gears are 323. TTI headers feeding 2 1/2" exhaust. If I go this route I was going to get the stroker kit from 440 source. I know there are a lot of different opinions out there, but I want to hear them.

 

[Lefty71]

For a street use stroker, you are probably going to want to limit the stroke to one that will still allow use of the blocks internal oil passages.... I think (don't quote me) you can go 4.125" without the counterweights hitting the oil pickup at the block, but you're getting real close. So, a 470 from a 400 block is still piece of cake. As far as torque converter goes... it's got to match up to the selected cam. If your cam is'nt some crazy race cam, then the torque converter wont be a high stall unit either. Truly best to flesh out all desired options before pulling the trigger on any components.

 

[HOT FURY]

I am in the process of building one right now, definitely use the 400 block if you can. If you do a little research you will see its a better block out of the two for main bearing support and other casting design differences making it better. No matter which size stroke you go with you have to feed the big cube motor so what would traditionally be a radical cam will seem less radical in the big motor. I would look at other options in addition to the 440 source rotating assemblies, you can get a better crank, rod, piston package for not much more money. I know 10 people will give you 10 different opinions but the machine shop doing my machine work wouldn't even balance another 440 source rotating assembly after finding casting flaws(air pockets) in the counter weights when drilling for balancing. Don't get me wrong I have used many parts from 440 source and will be putting their heads on my new motor but there are multiple big name companies that can put together a rotating assembly for your setup for around the same price. I would also look at Hughes engines for some of your options. They can help you with your cam selection based on the build you are looking for.

Hughes Engines

 

[CBODY67]

Build the 400 block with a 440 stroke. Recondition some 906s with hard valve seats. An Edelbrock Performer 383 intake (painted Chrysler Turquoise engine color), topped with a 650cfm AVS2 and the OEM air cleaner (but with a base plate from a 383 HP Road Runner, which makes the OEM air cleaner into an incognito open element air cleaner). The newer base plate will also be needed for the larger hole for the later Holley-size carb hole, still using the same size filter element you now have.

The current cam should be the normal 256/260 cam, so aiming toward the .470" lift area, with not much more duration, can help build torque and still idle nice. With the current TF, find a reman torque converter for a '68 Road Runner, which should be the 10.75" item, which should raise the potential stall speed a bit, which will still work well with your 3.23 axle ratio. Comp's XE272 flat tappet hydraulic looks good, as does the Lunati "Modern Performance" version of the Chrysler 268/284 HP cam (which Summit sells for a good price). Get the lifters from the same manufacturer you get the cam from so the cam warranty will remain in effect.

Then some HP exh manifolds or TTI headers, with a TII 2.5" dual exhaust system.

Another option would be to keep the 383 pretty much as is, but put it in front of a ZF 8-speed for the much deeper low gear. It would need a 3.55 or 3.91 rear axle ratio upgrade, though. So it could use OD on the highway. If that ZF is about the same size as a THM400 4L80E, it might come close to going with a TF used to be? In another forum, it was mentioned that many GM owners are changing their 4L80Es for the ZF 8-speeds and Dr. EFI builds controllers for that swap. So Dr EFI might have a controller that would work for the ZF into a Chrysler application?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[LocuMob]

Build the 400 block with a 440 stroke. Recondition some 906s with hard valve seats. An Edelbrock Performer 383 intake (painted Chrysler Turquoise engine color), topped with a 650cfm AVS2 and the OEM air cleaner (but with a base plate from a 383 HP Road Runner, which makes the OEM air cleaner into an incognito open element air cleaner). The newer base plate will also be needed for the larger hole for the later Holley-size carb hole, still using the same size filter element you now have.

The current cam should be the normal 256/260 cam, so aiming toward the .470" lift area, with not much more duration, can help build torque and still idle nice. With the current TF, find a reman torque converter for a '68 Road Runner, which should be the 10.75" item, which should raise the potential stall speed a bit, which will still work well with your 3.23 axle ratio. Comp's XE272 flat tappet hydraulic looks good, as does the Lunati "Modern Performance" version of the Chrysler 268/284 HP cam (which Summit sells for a good price). Get the lifters from the same manufacturer you get the cam from so the cam warranty will remain in effect.

Then some HP exh manifolds or TTI headers, with a TII 2.5" dual exhaust system.

Another option would be to keep the 383 pretty much as is, but put it in front of a ZF 8-speed for the much deeper low gear. It would need a 3.55 or 3.91 rear axle ratio upgrade, though. So it could use OD on the highway. If that ZF is about the same size as a THM400 4L80E, it might come close to going with a TF used to be? In another forum, it was mentioned that many GM owners are changing their 4L80Es for the ZF 8-speeds and Dr. EFI builds controllers for that swap. So Dr EFI might have a controller that would work for the ZF into a Chrysler application?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

I'd go big, big cubes, big cam, a carb at least in the 750 range and those tti headers. Let the thing breathe! What's the point of building a stroker if it's going to be similar to a stock setup?

440 Source heads will be just a bit more than the 906's will cost, with bigger valves, closed chamber and improved runners. This was covered on Engine Masters S 6 Ep 16.

Use the 8HP70 with the controller from Sound German Auto, and you'll have OD. I don't think you'll get away with leaving the trans tunnel stock no matter what route you go.

Stop with that GM garbage! Put Mopar parts into a Mopar. Might as well tell him to LS swap the thing.

 

[496 polara]

I would go 400 block with a 4.15 stroke provided you run a cyl head with enough flow to let it breathe. Let a cam guru match the cam/head/intake combo for max torque and let hp fall where it may. A stock type converter with 2000-2200 stall will be all you need.
You want a stock type power band with an extra 100 ft lbs on tap everywhere.
I would imagine a cam with upper 220's to low 230's would get you there.

 

[TNT440]

I am in the process of building one right now, definitely use the 400 block if you can. If you do a little research you will see its a better block out of the two for main bearing support and other casting design differences making it better. No matter which size stroke you go with you have to feed the big cube motor so what would traditionally be a radical cam will seem less radical in the big motor. I would look at other options in addition to the 440 source rotating assemblies, you can get a better crank, rod, piston package for not much more money. I know 10 people will give you 10 different opinions but the machine shop doing my machine work wouldn't even balance another 440 source rotating assembly after finding casting flaws(air pockets) in the counter weights when drilling for balancing. Don't get me wrong I have used many parts from 440 source and will be putting their heads on my new motor but there are multiple big name companies that can put together a rotating assembly for your setup for around the same price. I would also look at Hughes engines for some of your options. They can help you with your cam selection based on the build you are looking for.

Hughes Engines

Thanks for the heads up. I assumed that the 440 Source kits were balanced by them as indicated on their site. I will look at all options.

 

[TNT440]

Build the 400 block with a 440 stroke. Recondition some 906s with hard valve seats. An Edelbrock Performer 383 intake (painted Chrysler Turquoise engine color), topped with a 650cfm AVS2 and the OEM air cleaner (but with a base plate from a 383 HP Road Runner, which makes the OEM air cleaner into an incognito open element air cleaner). The newer base plate will also be needed for the larger hole for the later Holley-size carb hole, still using the same size filter element you now have.

The current cam should be the normal 256/260 cam, so aiming toward the .470" lift area, with not much more duration, can help build torque and still idle nice. With the current TF, find a reman torque converter for a '68 Road Runner, which should be the 10.75" item, which should raise the potential stall speed a bit, which will still work well with your 3.23 axle ratio. Comp's XE272 flat tappet hydraulic looks good, as does the Lunati "Modern Performance" version of the Chrysler 268/284 HP cam (which Summit sells for a good price). Get the lifters from the same manufacturer you get the cam from so the cam warranty will remain in effect.

Then some HP exh manifolds or TTI headers, with a TII 2.5" dual exhaust system.

Another option would be to keep the 383 pretty much as is, but put it in front of a ZF 8-speed for the much deeper low gear. It would need a 3.55 or 3.91 rear axle ratio upgrade, though. So it could use OD on the highway. If that ZF is about the same size as a THM400 4L80E, it might come close to going with a TF used to be? In another forum, it was mentioned that many GM owners are changing their 4L80Es for the ZF 8-speeds and Dr. EFI builds controllers for that swap. So Dr EFI might have a controller that would work for the ZF into a Chrysler application?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Thanks for the advice. I will probably put aluminum heads on it. Cam selection is a struggle. I will be sticking with the TF.

 

[496 polara]

The 496 in my old Polara was a torque monster. Maybe 9.00-1 at best with well ported big valve iron heads.I ran a port matched ch4b intake with a holley 750 vacuum secondary (later a 750 HP mech secondary).Hooker super comp C body headers with 1 3/4 tubes (later tti 1 7/8 tubes).I ran a Hughes solid lifter cam(smallest one they had 237@ .050) and their 1.6 roller rockers.
11" converter and 3.55 gears.
A little more "hot rod" than what you are thinking but that was what I wanted. With less cam and the smaller hooker headers it would have done what you are looking for at a lower rpm.Would pull 3.23 gears effortlessly.

 

[HOT FURY]

I'd go big, big cubes, big cam, a carb at least in the 750 range and those tti headers. Let the thing breathe! What's the point of building a stroker if it's going to be similar to a stock setup?

440 Source heads will be just a bit more than the 906's will cost, with bigger valves, closed chamber and improved runners. This was covered on Engine Masters S 6 Ep 16.

Use the 8HP70 with the controller from Sound German Auto, and you'll have OD. I don't think you'll get away with leaving the trans tunnel stock no matter what route you go.

Stop with that GM garbage! Put Mopar parts into a Mopar. Might as well tell him to LS swap the thing.

agreed, gotta let the beast breath! 650 carb=too small, take advantage of the large diameter lifter bores on mopars allowing higher lift cams. The guys at hughes can help with cam specs for what parameters you are working with.

 

[CBODY67]

Stop with that GM garbage! Put Mopar parts into a Mopar. Might as well tell him to LS swap the thing.

Shhhh, don't give anybody any ideas!

I was surprised to see the posts of people putting Dodge Ram Hemi ZFs to replace their 4L80Es OR instead of such. A definite improvement!

That "GM garbage" funded my Chrysler habits for over 40 years. The more it broke, the more I made selling parts.

Happy Holidays,
CBODY67

 

[TNT440]

agreed, gotta let the beast breath! 650 carb=too small, take advantage of the large diameter lifter bores on mopars allowing higher lift cams. The guys at hughes can help with cam specs for what parameters you are working with.

I will definitely be calling Hughes

 

[MEV]

Look up my build and cam choice. No need to reinvent the wheel. Mine flies.

 

[TNT440]

Look up my build and cam choice. No need to reinvent the wheel. Mine flies.

Thanks, I can't seem to find the thread that has the specifics of your build

 

[MEV]

This should get you started

440 rebuild suggestions

 

[MJFUR]

There is an episode of Engine Masters that was about different heads for the 440. Here's a screenshot on how they fared on the same engine.
B2 is an Edelbrock head with the timing adjusted to 34 degrees.

 

[TNT440]

There is an episode of Engine Masters that was about different heads for the 440. Here's a screenshot on how they fared on the same engine.
B2 is an Edelbrock head with the timing adjusted to 34 degrees.

View attachment 631237

View attachment 631238

Thanks for the info, I was leaning towards the Edelbrock heads. This helps confirm it may be the right choice.

 

[MEV]

Mine are the 440 stealths, that i later had cnc ported by modern cylinder head. My car runs 12.20@109.8 mph weighing 4767lbs with a 3.23 gear.

 

[Blusmbl]

Agree on using the 400 block to start with, 4.25 stroke with 2.2 BBC rod journals fits a stock internal pickup no problem.

 

[NitrousTuner1]

The 512 will be AWESOME with the 400 block. Many don't even require minor clearance. I have 3 on the street. 1 has been together for 8 year's.
Spend the extra $300 & do a hydraulic roller. I Highly recommend Schneider Racing or Cam Motion...
No oiling issues ever either.
I'd call A & A Transmissions & talk with the owner on converter. But a 2500-2800 will wake that sled up big time as well.
Feel free to message me as I build & tune for a living & have 13 Year's at the Speed Shop selling parts before tuning for the last 20