Timing chain cover question

If you just have to send it..…..
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
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Since the cover is off, and I assume you have the power steering off too, you should be able to see these identifying numbers. 1972 should have "H".

With all your messing around with this, I think you'll be better off biting the bullet and replacing the cover.

vG88ki3.jpg


Mopar-340-Small-Block-VIN-Identification-Date.jpg
Hey John,
Thanks. I will look harder to find the number (passenger side too). May be a bit, but I'll post the result.
As far as replacing the cover, I agree. However I don't have the luxury of getting a new one right now. NO time. Need to get this thing going pronto.
 
Well, seems to be mixed opinions on whether or not to run the cover...
Most of the surface that the water pump mounts to has been messed with (ground with a sanding disc) so it's not just one spot. It's not terrible but far from machined.
. Dave- is "R and R" a machine shop procedure? I am not at a place where a new cover could be obtained. Would you think filing the surface as best as I can by hand would be adequate?

R & R= remove and replace.

Dave
 
Yes, I wouldn't want to have to r and r the cover after reinstalling it and all the associated parts.
Latest is there are several "reputable" machine shops nearby and I should be able to have the cover surfaced, welds cleaned up and all checked out. I will keep my fingers crossed. But, bottom line is not going to reinstall without having it serviced further first.
 
I was wondering if anyone has an idea of the tolerance for my timing chain cover surface? I have it off the vehicle and had to repair a hole. The weld went onto the flat mating surface of the water pump and was ground off by hand with a handheld grinder. The surface is nowhere near perfect (surprise surprise) with maybe a 32nd showing under a straightedge where the weld material was ground off.
Question is should I be concerned about a leak or would the gasket/gasket sealer take care of any imperfections?
 
Quit messing about, you got water on both sides of ya, go down to your local marina and ask about and get some of this stuff.

View attachment 361597

http://marinetex.com/

Marine-Tex Gray is recommended for machinery repairs.
It's an idea!! Love that photo on your profile! So classic.
Maybe marine tex is the final frontier before replacing the whole thing. Let's see how they do in La Paz...
 
Since the cover is off, and I assume you have the power steering off too, you should be able to see these identifying numbers. 1972 should have "H".

With all your messing around with this, I think you'll be better off biting the bullet and replacing the cover.

vG88ki3.jpg


Mopar-340-Small-Block-VIN-Identification-Date.jpg
Hey Big John,
I finally got around to looking at the engine stamp and this is what I found:
"M318R 06 131947"
After revisiting your post here I am concerned that I'm missing a letter at the beginning... I can look again but after a fair amount of cleaning and flashlight work the only letter before the 318 was "M".
Does this make sense? The primary information I am looking for, of course, is the year of manufacture. Figures.
 
Hey Big John,
I finally got around to looking at the engine stamp and this is what I found:
"M318R 06 131947"
After revisiting your post here I am concerned that I'm missing a letter at the beginning... I can look again but after a fair amount of cleaning and flashlight work the only letter before the 318 was "M".
Does this make sense? The primary information I am looking for, of course, is the year of manufacture. Figures.

You can also look at the engine casting date on the drivers side of the block. There will be a casting number just below the freeze plugs #2536030 from '67-'75. (318 engine) Just below the casting number is a casting date which give the month, day and year the block was cast. Model year production usually ended in about June and then the plants were retooled for the new model year. Most engines produced early in the production cycle will show, for example, a Sept '70 production date for a '71 model car. Engine casting date should always be before the build date of the car.

Dave
 
Here is an example of a mopar block and date casting number from a big block, the same pattern was used on most mopar engines.

Dave

Mopar-Engine-Block-Numbers.jpg
 
Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. I can see on your engine clear as day that it was built in '68. Any idea on the number I found on my engine (behind the power steering pump)-M318R 06 131947??
it's a little hard for me to tell exactly where your stamp is located- I guess I'll start by looking for the driver's side freeze plugs, below the head. Might be hard to see with the exhaust still mounted, I'll look.
 
Hey Big John,
I finally got around to looking at the engine stamp and this is what I found:
"M318R 06 131947"
After revisiting your post here I am concerned that I'm missing a letter at the beginning... I can look again but after a fair amount of cleaning and flashlight work the only letter before the 318 was "M".
Does this make sense? The primary information I am looking for, of course, is the year of manufacture. Figures.
Those numbers don'y make a lot of sense to me.

The numbers after 318R should be the 10,000 day calendar. Chrysler's 10,000-Day Calendar
Plug "0613" in and that's 1963. So, I guess I would question if that is really a "0".

M is for Mound Road assembly plant. 318. Those seem ok.

I think you have to look at the casting numbers like Dave is saying.
 
Here is an example of a mopar block and date casting number from a big block, the same pattern was used on most mopar engines.

Dave

View attachment 373590
That's not just a big block, that's a 426 hemi! Small block casting dates (at least the early ones) are located on right front near motor mount, here's a 273 for example. It will be hard to see in car. BTW, still think you should bite the bullet & just get a good replacement cover. Do realize shipping costs to MX can be outrageous.
273 block bottom right.jpg
 
Here
318.jpg
is a 318, casting number and date are visible on the driver side of the engine.

Dave
 
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Dave and John, here are the numbers I pulled off the block: 1283 2536030-G18-2BN.
That last capital G maybe being a 6. It was hard to tell for sure.
I will try to post a photo of the stamp soon-I’m a flip phone guy and only had my phone on me at the time to take the photo. Gotta transfer to my wife’s phone and then I’ll post it
 
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