My experience no you do not need the vent the dsistributor should have drain holes in the bottom if they are clean you are good. But there are MANY opinions on this also. But millions of cars ran fine without the vents and still do.
Trouble with '66 300
- Thread starter Justin Heydon
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mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Yes moisture can build up even without a vent.
IMHO vents let more in than out...
Mopars back int he 70's & 80's were known for this at least in my area.
Extra ballast resistors & ignition dry were in the glove box at all times.
I used to joke with my buddies not to spill any water near my car or it would cut out
You don't need to have the OEM cap.
If you suspect moisture, I regularly once or twice a year spray the dist cap inside and rotor with brake cleanse(non chlorinated).
It cleans & dries things up.
good ignition wires are a must as well.
Justin Heydon
New Member
Pulled the fuel pump and pushrod out and discovered that it's under 3". We ordered a new one and it's on it's way. Do you think the cam wawadamaged as well? See attached photos. One being our engie bay and the other being the pushrod.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
If you have an inspection camera that you can use a quick look into the fuel pump opening will tell you if there’s a problem with the cam lobe
I bet the cam is fine because it's barely touching. Mine was fine if that makes you feel any better, pretty certain Matt didn't damage his cam either.
Remember its going to be harder to install the fuel pump now. I can't remember the position you want the engine, maybe TDC to have the lobe that works the pump away from the pump.
Someone here will chime in if you already don't know. I had a buddy tell me while I was doing it so I can't remember.
Someone here will chime in if you already don't know. I had a buddy tell me while I was doing it so I can't remember.
Good point, and I'll add that if you haven't already done so, Justin, removing the alternator so that you can see what you're doing, hold the pump flush to the block against the spring force, and have room to easily start the bolts will make your life a happy one.
Remove ground cable on battery FIRST before removing alt or you'll have a serious sparking situation along with your exposed fuel supply line. Otherwise, your life will NOT be a happy one.
stubs300
Senior Member
Putting a goober of grease on the rod will help hold it in place when inserted.
That just sounds kinky! Good Luck
That just sounds kinky! Good Luck
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Sweet! It will run and drive like a new car now! Hopefully you got a good unit that has been hardened properly as a replacement. Where did you get it?
Justin Heydon
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Summit Racing
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A link to it?
Justin Heydon
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Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
I changed the oil as insurance, since that's where the lost metal from the rod went, and put a new(er used) pushrod in. I applied a liberal coating of moly assembly lube to the replacement rod when installing. I also plumbed a small fuel gauge inline in the hard line going to the carb, so I'd be able to diagnose if this happened again. It's been several years and no problems yet.
Justin Heydon
New Member
All,
Thank you so much! We installed the new pushrod, changed the oil and it runs so much better now! It starts much easier without excessive cranking and doesn't stall out! Would never have thought about the pushrod.
Justin
Thank you so much! We installed the new pushrod, changed the oil and it runs so much better now! It starts much easier without excessive cranking and doesn't stall out! Would never have thought about the pushrod.
Justin
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Another person no longer suffering from a short rod!
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