But don’t overthink it, just get the standard Pertronix unit not the II or III.Think thats canadian without hitting the books. And yes petronixs makes a unit for them, works great.
Gotta strongly disagree with you on that.But don’t overthink it, just get the standard Pertronix unit not the II or III.
Well, there's a lot of times when stupid stuff happens... Passenger turns on the key to listen to the radio while you're in the store.. Car is idling to warm up while you are doing something else and it quits and you don't notice because you're busy...In one respect, nobody listens to their car radios with the ign key in "run" (engine off) anymore, so that one issue might be moot now. Plus most vehicles have an "ACC" position, even back then. Even in a points system, doing that (using "run" rather than "acc" could allegedly cook the points and run down the battery, IF the engine stopped and the points were closed. BTAIM
I guess we’re reading different threads…Gotta strongly disagree with you on that.
From what I've read, the Pertronix II has some protective circuits in it. As I've read on quite a few occasions, the Pertronix I will burn out of the ignition is left on or (IIRC) if the voltage isn't correct (both low and high). The Pertronix II is supposed to eliminate those problems and have more robust circuitry. ALL the issues I've ever read about with the Pertronix failing were Pertronix I units and often, the ignition being left on was the culprit.
The Pertronix III is overkill for most applications, I'll give you that.
Quite frankly, I'm not even sure they offer the Pertronix I anymore.
I'm not saying that the I isn't reliable, I'm just saying the II is much more reliable by design. I do know that the huge issue was burn out because the ignition being left on and I do know that was addressed in the II. It seems to me there was an over/under(?) voltage problem that was causing failures too, but I'm not going to look to prove that one way or another.I guess we’re reading different threads…
I’ve got 30k miles on a “I” completely trouble free and regret switching from another “I” on a different car to Chrysler electronic ignition.
If that is your rotor then your cap should have a spring loaded carbon cylinder in the center position to press against rotor.I am trying to figure out what pertronix I need. 1381A or 1385ls
The 1381a has a spring tab on the rotor and mine is a flat blade
View attachment 576366
I think for now I will file these pionts and set the gap .017"
Its not going anywhere for a few months anyway
yes it doesIf that is your rotor then your cap should have a spring loaded carbon cylinder in the center position to press against rotor.
1381 is for the single point aluminum housing for sure. I have done dozens of them in the Pet I version. Never had one fail. Yes leaving the key on and not running will burn out all the mopar eletronic ECU's for sure. I have to remember to grab my Petronix book and look up your number. PM me all the tag info if you can. As for a cap you need the dual point style along with the rotor. If needed I have really nice NORS ones listed.I am trying to figure out what pertronix I need. 1381A or 1385ls
The 1381a has a spring tab on the rotor and mine is a flat blade
View attachment 576366
I think for now I will file these pionts and set the gap .017"
Its not going anywhere for a few months anyway