Vexing electrical voo-doo - '67 New Yorker NO POWER but for the windows........

Imperialist67

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Posting this for input on a VEX-ing problem with my New Yorker. After bringing it home from a show a while back, did the usual routine of 1.) running windows UP, and 2.) running antennae DOWN (both power) 3.) shutting off ignition, and 4.) turning off the battery "kill switch" before 5.) putting the cover on.

Went through steps 1,3 - 4, but forgot to run the antennae down. Turned the battery switch back "ON" to do so, 2, and NOTHING came back on, no dome/indicator/trunk lights, headlights, etc., NOTHING happened/lights up when trying to turn ignition on.

HOWEVER, power windows were working............ NOTHING else seems to have power, including power antennae.

Cleaning battery terminals turned up a little "white powder" but to no avail, same outcome. My garage neighbor/car car collector brought his meter out, and we did the following:

1.) Battery checks out with plenty of charge (just over 12.5). Connections now nice and clean, too.
2.) Fuses all OK - none are "blackened" and charge was going through.
3.) Power going through ballast resistor OK.
4.) Power going through voltage regulator OK.

Prior to this there had been no indicators of an electrical problem. Any ideas anyone has will be a big help.

MANY THANKS
 
A couple things... First, what year is your New Yorker? I have a couple ideas, but they are based on the year of the car.

Second, a blown fuse (which probably isn't the case) won't necessarily be "blackened".
 
Here's a little more info., forgot to include before:

My New Yorker is a '67.

We DID check all the fueses with the meter, and all were showing power going through.

Before this happened, as long as the battery was turned "on"... headlights, dome lights etc., power windows worked withOUT ignition being turned on. Now only windows are operating, nothing else.

THANKS.
 
Have you run a continuity check on the fusible link? Could also be a corroded terminal in the firewall plug.

Dave
 
Power window circuit breaker gets power from amp meter.
 
You might also want to check the amp gauge, if it is open most of the accessories will be dead. Check it by taking a short piece of wire with some alligator clips and spanning the two terminals on the gauge. If everything works, you have isolated the problem. Unhook the battery cable before fooling around under the dash and hook it back up when the connection has been made across the terminals.

Dave
 
THANKS - I THINk that would mean power is going through the amp meter, but only on the circuit for the windows?
It would depend on which side of the ammeter the window lead is wired to. If it is wired to the load side, yes the ammeter is working. If it is wired to the input side then the circuit will be hot if the ammeter is working or not.

Dave
 
I don't have a '67 diagram handy, but in '65 the windows are powered from the battery side of the ammeter and everything else feeds off the wire between the alternator and the ammeter.

So, if the ammeter went bad, the black wire came loose from that side of the ammeter or the main splice in that wire where everything splits off came apart (hidden somewhere in the harness under the dash) you would end up with only the windows working.

Technically, I think the cigar lighter on the back of the armrest or console would also work, and if you jumper the starter relay the engine will turn over but not start.

Loose connection on the ammeter seems the most likely. Also loose connections there cause heat, melting & eventually fire, so good to check periodically anyway!
 
I don't have a '67 diagram handy, but in '65 the windows are powered from the battery side of the ammeter and everything else feeds off the wire between the alternator and the ammeter.

So, if the ammeter went bad, the black wire came loose from that side of the ammeter or the main splice in that wire where everything splits off came apart (hidden somewhere in the harness under the dash) you would end up with only the windows working.

Technically, I think the cigar lighter on the back of the armrest or console would also work, and if you jumper the starter relay the engine will turn over but not start.

Loose connection on the ammeter seems the most likely. Also loose connections there cause heat, melting & eventually fire, so good to check periodically anyway!
MANY THANKS - this sounds like it, actually, as I have wound up with ONLY windows working. Haven't checked the lighter, but I'm trying not to do too much of that (running windows) currently as not to drain the battery for the interim.
 
THANKS - I THINk that would mean power is going through the amp meter, but only on the circuit for the windows?
The circuit breaker in the left kick panrl that feeds the power windows is hot all the time and direct from starter relay.
It does not channel through the ammeter gauge.
Hence they work when the ammeter gauge craps out.
Do the underhood ammeter bypass, twist the key and enjoy.
Underhood Ammeter Bypass
 
I'm a good bit late in posting this, but courtesy of everyone on here (and a fellow car guy who keep his in the same building garage where I do that's also good with electrical work.....). this problem has been finally been resolved.

The ammeter was in fact the culprit, and I am tipping my hat to cbarge for re-posting the Underhood Ammeter Bypass link, which was most helpful, and made it easy enough (almost) for even ME to do it. The by-pass did the trick, and as promised, all that had to happen was the by-pass, then twist the key, and enjoy.

Best of all was that this got done in time to get to couple of fall shows before the season ends.

MANY MANY thanks for everyone's input and suggestions

SterlingRIghtSideMark.jpg
 
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