Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
So, it needs to be known if that valve is working right as to whether or not to tear the engine down looking for trash?
What is going on with my valve train?!?!?!?!
- Thread starter abloch
- Start date
So, it needs to be known if that valve is working right as to whether or not to tear the engine down looking for trash?
Good question.. I don't know if you would know that. IIRC, there's a oil pressure drop if that valve opens...
But we aren't talking about a lot of metal here. The adjusters look like they mushroomed and then flaked a little off. I don't think I would bother to pull the pan.
I will bet those chunks are too big to get through the pickup screen and never get as far as the filter.
Fo reference, I believe he bypass valve opens when there is a 10psi difference between input and output? Not "clogged", but "restricted".
Other than the oil filter element inspection, when you drain the oil, you can put a magnet in it to catch what comes out AND filter it through a drip coffee maker filter. But be cognizant of the residual oil in the low parts of the oil pan.
Other than pulling the motor, you can remove the oil pan, intake manifold, valve covers, with several drain pans, and wash the innards of the engine with Varsol to your satisfaction. Clean things up, afterward.
With the oil pan off, you can also remove a main cap or two, plus a rod cap or so, to look at the bearings and crank journals. Theory is that the bearings are soft enough to allow foreign material to embed in them first rather than score the journals (which are harder)?
Then, after all of this, put the metal back on the motor, a new oil filter, fresh oil, then remove the distributor and operate the oil pump to further flush the system of debris. Another oil change with a new filter. Then reinstall the distributor and make it run again. WITH a magnetic drain plug and a magnet on the bottom of the oil filter too . . . long term.
One other thing you could do is get an oil sample and send it for testing to look for "wear metals" which are in the oil now. Then after any clean-up activities and the next oil change after that. This might be one of the first things to do, then see how that testing goes and determine what needs to be done afterward.
Good that your supplier is sending some new parts!
CBODY67
Other than the oil filter element inspection, when you drain the oil, you can put a magnet in it to catch what comes out AND filter it through a drip coffee maker filter. But be cognizant of the residual oil in the low parts of the oil pan.
Other than pulling the motor, you can remove the oil pan, intake manifold, valve covers, with several drain pans, and wash the innards of the engine with Varsol to your satisfaction. Clean things up, afterward.
With the oil pan off, you can also remove a main cap or two, plus a rod cap or so, to look at the bearings and crank journals. Theory is that the bearings are soft enough to allow foreign material to embed in them first rather than score the journals (which are harder)?
Then, after all of this, put the metal back on the motor, a new oil filter, fresh oil, then remove the distributor and operate the oil pump to further flush the system of debris. Another oil change with a new filter. Then reinstall the distributor and make it run again. WITH a magnetic drain plug and a magnet on the bottom of the oil filter too . . . long term.
One other thing you could do is get an oil sample and send it for testing to look for "wear metals" which are in the oil now. Then after any clean-up activities and the next oil change after that. This might be one of the first things to do, then see how that testing goes and determine what needs to be done afterward.
Good that your supplier is sending some new parts!
CBODY67
I hate to be the bearer of bad news. A through tear down and cleaning of all engine parts is required. This is a lot of effort on your part to carry out Make sure that 440 Source provides all necessary gaskets to do so. Failure to do will certainly reduce engine life and guaranteeing catastrophic failure in the future. There is no way to flush metal particles completely w/ reliability.
Rusty Muffler
Active Member
Adjustable lifters or "poly locks" were used on Pontiac 400 engines with hydraulic lifters because the stock self locking nuts would loosen as they got older.
Poly locks were available for other motors, too. Purely aftermarket. OEM adjusting nuts on Pontiacs and Chevy V-8s were prevailing torque with deformed threads or shallow threads to provide a self-locking function.
I had a friend who bought a '67 Chevelle 396/375 car. It had poly locks with roller rocker arms on it. After the initial adjustment, the outer "lock nut" was tightened. Took a long Allen wrench and a 6-point wrench to do that deal, plus the requisite feeler gauges to set the valve lash with.
CBODY67
I had a friend who bought a '67 Chevelle 396/375 car. It had poly locks with roller rocker arms on it. After the initial adjustment, the outer "lock nut" was tightened. Took a long Allen wrench and a 6-point wrench to do that deal, plus the requisite feeler gauges to set the valve lash with.
CBODY67
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