What is going on with my valve train?!?!?!?!

abloch

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Here are the specs.
413 RB around 2000mi on rebuild.
Edelbrock E-Streets w/440 source ductile adjustable rockers
"Purple Cam" .484 lift 284 duration w/ matching hydraulic lifters
0 lash all the way around + 1turn
I did not rebuild the engine myself nor do I consider myself an engine builder, which is why I am here.

I went through 2 revolutions to confirm 0 lash then set all rockers @ 1turn.

Engine ran great and sounded great for about 40-50mi.
Now everyday it has been getting progressively worse (sounding) so I pulled the valve cover, set it at TDC and there is slop everywhere.

What gives? Where did all the slack come from? Adjusters are all still snug.

Is it normal to have to do this procedure again? Just add another half turn all the way around?
Looking for advise as to what to look for or what I might be missing here.
 
What is still snug and what is loose? Adjustable rocker arms? Presuming you already had broken-in the cam appropriately?
 
Check your oil for metal before you do anything else.
 
I think I found the problem! I will be calling 440 source in the morning and asking if he is going to rebuild my motor? I though these were supposed to be hardened? I guess not...

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Cut the oil filter open and check for metal with a magnet. Document everything in pictures.

Are all of the adjusters like the ones pictured or just those three? Were those adjuster balls pre-lubed prior to start-up? Just curious.
 
Cut the oil filter open and check for metal with a magnet. Document everything in pictures.

Are all of the adjusters like the ones pictured or just those three? Were those adjuster balls pre-lubed prior to start-up? Just curious.
Just the three loose ones I found @ TDC. I assume they are all like this.
Yes, pre oiled and rocker shafts installed correctly.
 
What do the pushrods look like on top?? Who supplied them? Sizes match up??
 
Original post indicates Hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers. Maybe I am wrong, however, aren't adjustable rockers supposed to be used with solid lifters? I thought flat tappet rockers are for hydraulic lifters. Could this not be the problem?
 
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idk what those adjusters should look like new so i can't judge how much is missing...but maybe the cam flattened out or lifters collapsed and you're looking at the result of the excessive clearance rather than the cause...otherwise maybe cam bearing was mis-indexed or spun so oil flow to the top end was insufficient? do the shafts have to be indexed a certain way to oil the adjusters? all the ball and socket adusters i've ever dealt with have been on engines that lube up through hollow pushrods so i've never seen one fail....
 
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Original post indicates Hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers. Maybe I am wrong, however, aren't adjustable rockers supposed to be used with solid lifters? I thought flat tappet rockers are for hydraulic lifters. Could this not be the problem?
Adjustable rocker arms can be used with either type of valve lifter. Chrysler chose not to use then on hydraulics OEM, but the aftermarket makes plenty of them with no spec as to "solid" or "hydraulic".
 
How long ago did the parts come form 440 Source ? I bought a whole top end kit with heads from them about 20 years ago.
A few days later they sent me all new adjusters and said do not use what was supplied with the kit.
It must have been a known problem.
 
I've been using Crane adjustable rockers on Isky Hydraulic cams for over 50 years with no problems. What do the push rods look like? Are these 440 Source's parts?
 
How long ago did the parts come form 440 Source ? I bought a whole top end kit with heads from them about 20 years ago.
A few days later they sent me all new adjusters and said do not use what was supplied with the kit.
It must have been a known problem.
Darter, upon calling 440source I found that this IS a problem that was discovered. So I am not the only person who has had a problem. I don't know why they didn't contact everyone about this and suggested they do so immediately! New adjusters are in the mail.

Now I have to figure out how to flush the engine or do I pull the engine and tear it down or drop the pan. I'm still in a little shock here.
 
I would do what was suggested above and cut open the oil filter. I think you should also drain the oil and see what it looks like. If it looks okay then I would put some clean oil and a new filter on and run it for a little while and look at it again. You might be okay.
 
I would do what was suggested above and cut open the oil filter. I think you should also drain the oil and see what it looks like. If it looks okay then I would put some clean oil and a new filter on and run it for a little while and look at it again. You might be okay.
Adding one thing... While I don't use them as a rule, if you can find a good magnetic drain plug, I'd try that.
 
Does half the oil go through the filter and half the oil go around it?
The way I understand it, if the bypass valve, internal to the filter, is functioning correctly, it should filter 100% of the oil.

That's always been the downfall of the cheaper filters though. The bypass valve is only supposed to work when the filter is clogged.
 
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