Hey guys, it has been a while, over the past couple weeks, I have been heavily working on the 77 New Yorker, but I have run into a few issues lately. First of all, one of the biggest problems I have faced are the window motors. When I bought the car, it had American Bosch mototrs dated 1976 in all doors except the driver, which is the only door that had a working window motor as well. Then, my dad and I tried to replace the window motor on the driver's door with an ACI Motor from Rockauto.com, but it did not have the correct bolt pattern. Then, we sent that back, ordered 4 window motors from Cardone, the other brand listed on Rockauto.com, and we had them put in by a nearby mechanic who is great with older cars. Unfortunately, the Cardone motors ended up being too weak, so the mechanic took out the window seals so there would be no resistance on the window, but now the car would no be safe in the rain and my windows are not aligned properly. My plan was to get the original American Bosch window motors rebuilt by Powerwindowrepair.com, but they gave us a price of $200 to $250 per motor. Should I try to rebuild the original window motors myself, and then have those put in, which should definitely be powerful enough, or is there a window motor brand that would fit the 77 New Yorker and be powerful enough? Thanks, 77newyorker440 P.S. My dad and I finished cleaning the undercarriage of my car (colossal oil leak), and now my brake lights don't work when I hit the brakes, only when I have the parking lights and headlights on? Did water get into a connection, or is it just the switch near the brake pedal?
Do you have any junkyards in your area? when I had a window motor problem in my '79 Cordoba, I found what years used the same motors and went looking. Found one in an '80s Fifth Avenue. Think I paid ten bucks for it.
Put the window seals back in and I suggest you get the Bosch motors rebuilt when funds allow as Bosch are a quality brand. Yes, it's not cheap but a quality rebuild should last for many years. Do it once and do it right the first time.
Well, a guy in my area is selling some parts from an older two-door Chrysler, but I'm not sure if the rear window motors would be the same
Alright, I will look into gathering some cash for that, I am going to send the driver's door window motor first as a bit of a test run to make sure it is a worthwhile venture, I will update you guys on what happens with the other window motors and this company. Thanks, 77newyorker440
About the only significant difference in any Mopar window motor from the 60's to the 90's is the connection plug. Some have support brackets, some don't but they will pretty much all bolt to the door and engage with the regulator. Kevin
I'd be interested in how many amps it pulling putting up the window. Too many for its size, and I'd be betting that the regulator is the problem
Had a simulator issue with my 77 drivers door, but it turned out to be the regulator gear inside the motor housing, it’s plastic. It was destroyed. All the other windows work fine, they do bind a bit going up and down, but that’s for an adjustment later on. Pulled the window regulator and motor from the drivers door did a clean up and rebuild, works fine now. As mentioned above, there are later years of motors that may work. You’ll just need to probably cut the plug off of your motor and add it to the newer one. Or if you’re going to rebuild your existing, no need for the aforementioned.
I must disagree. The motor in my '62 New Yorker was a completely different animal than what was in my '70 Cordoba, and even the '80s Fifth I pulled the replacement motor from. There is no way the '62 motor would have worked in the '79.
This guy has motors for a decent price. These are new motors. Some need the drive gear, but that's pretty easy to source new replacement. Items for sale by dixiepowerwindow | eBay Power Window Motor Gear Dorman 747-411 fits CHRYSLER DODGE EAGLE JEEP PLYMOUTH | eBay WINDOW LIFT MOTOR (NEW) fits: CHRYSLER FIFTH AVE IMPERIAL LEBARON NEW YORKER | eBay As said, they are pretty much the same except for the plug. You'll need left and right hand.
Years of owning a restoration shop..... The plastic track rollers, and the tracks themselves (all of them, even the fore-aft ones on the back side of the metal inner door skeleton) should be cleaned with WD40 and then DOUSED with white grease. The factory grease is most likely cement by now. Messy job, but it worked on MOST slow windows. Same thing with the regulator. All pivot points should be well lubed. Run the windows up and down numerous times (a battery charger hooked up helps). Also cleaning or replacing the window "cat whisker" sweeps helps. Silicone spray the vertical runner felt strips too. I hope this helps
