WIW 68 VIP

[nbbcrh]

Original Paint low mileage car, 383 auto, what's a fair price, not a C body guy, don't know value not necessarily appraisal values but what it's worth in today's market, appreciate any help, Thanks Ben

 

[68 4spd Fury]

Looks nice. Little more information would be helpful. Interior condition, options etc, VIN# and picture of fender tag would be good too. Good luck!

 

[nbbcrh]

Looks nice. Little more information would be helpful. Interior condition, options etc, VIN# and picture of fender tag would be good too. Good luck!

Going to look closer today, have an opportunity to acquire, just don't know what these cars are bringing, don't want to make a bad investment, AC car, interior is supposed to be very good, no tears, etc.Thanks

 

[cbarge]

Going to look closer today, have an opportunity to acquire, just don't know what these cars are bringing, don't want to make a bad investment, AC car, interior is supposed to be very good, no tears, etc.Thanks

The 15 inch wheels and hubcaps were an option but may also hint it may have front Budd disc brakes. Parts are scarce and expensive..heads up.
But they do work great!
Typically they came with the 318 or 383 2bbl with 383 4bbl HP and 440 optional.
4500 on the low end and top end 10-12K depending on overall condition.
Make sure it has all its trim.
Any rust bubbling under the vinyl top spells trouble.
Water from back window can ruin the trunk area too.
Good luck!

 

[nbbcrh]

The 15 inch wheels and hubcaps were an option but may also hint it may have front Budd disc brakes. Parts are scarce and expensive..heads up.
But they do work great!
Typically they came with the 318 or 383 2bbl with 383 4bbl HP and 440 optional.
4500 on the low end and top end 10-12K depending on overall condition.
Make sure it has all its trim.
Any rust bubbling under the vinyl top spells trouble.
Water from back window can ruin the trunk area too.
Good luck!

Thank you very much, good info, will check out today, supposed to have been always garaged, will definitely check top for bubbling and trim work, on my coronet, took me forever to find the trim in good condition.

 

[CBODY67]

RE: vinyl roof . . . on my '67 CE23, there were/are rust bubbles which appeared under the vinyl roof at the bottom of the vertical side chrome pieces by the glass, both sides, about 3-4" tall. Also, on the lh front section, above the windshield and a few inches back, a band of "hard vinyl" about 1 foot long and 3" or so side, back of the top windshield chrome trim. Otherwise, the original vinyl top of the car is soft and in good condition.

One plus is that the black vinyl will absorb more heat than the white vinyl top will, so any underlying moisture can get evaporated out quicker than the similar white vinyl top would. Under the vinyl overlay of the basic fabric, there is a decently-thick layer or heavy gauze which is what touches the metal top. THAT is where the moisture will collect and cause rust in later life. Replacement vinyl roof fabrics have a thinner layer than the OEMs did back then, termed "thin back", with the vinyl overlay being a bit thinner in build thickness too, by observation.

The "good thing" is that those back glasses were the first use of "glued-in" glass which Chrysler did. No formed gasket as the windshield has. I consider this to be a good thing.

In general: The car looks good in a good color combination. I would highly suspect the car has the front disc brakes, due to the 15" wheel covers. I was not aware of 15" wheels/wheel covers being a separate option on drum brake cars, BTAIM. The disc brakes can be a bit difficult to deal with, but if they still work well, you can plan on working on them later.

DO check for rust on the lower body areas, plus if the trunk has a flexible mat, look under it. If it's a thicker rubber mat, it can be brittle and will tear/break when moved, so be careful and respectful in that respect. Look in the sides of the trunk floor too. Look, too, for factory undercoat and hood pad. Casually walk around the car, lightly tapping the sheet metal with the center joint of a bent index finger, listening for thuds rather than a normal sheet metal sound.

Also pay attention to things the owner might have done, which are "not factory".

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[mrfury68]

The trim on the lower sides and front wheel opening mouldings are exclusive to VIP only and are very rare. Other trim is shared with the Fury line. The car looks great in the picture but use due diligence when looking it over. IMO if the VIP is in excellent, unmolested, running & driving condition, low teens might not be unreasonable. Not too many of these were built and a lot less are still around. Good luck.

 

[CBODY67]

As for the Budd front disc brakes on C-bodies. Other than the 4-piston disc brakes on Corvettes of that era, they were "normal" of sorts. 4 pistons meant more clamping force for the brake pads, but with the brake fluids of that era, accumulated internal moisture could result in pitting of the piston bores and leakage. Many Corvette owners would replace all of their caliper housings and such, to the tune of about $700.00/car for the complete rebuild, back then. One of the costs of owning a Corvette, so to speak.

From those issues is where the stainless steel sleeving of the piston bores came from. Rebuilt/sleeved caliper housings were a big deal back then, but the benefits of such resulted in that industry becoming as big as it came to be. And the rise of "Stainless Steel Brakes".

Now, for somebody to repro or adapt rotors.

To me, the power disc brakes would not be a deal-breaker, just a different "game to play". Finding good parts to "play with" can be an issue, whether for drum or disc brakes, as time progresses. In either case, it appears that a brake system rebuilt with quality parts and then putting synthetic brake fluid in them might be the ultimate fix? Drum or disc.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[MarkLevi]

For a point of comparison, here is a 318 one in Illinois that just popped up on Facebook overnight asking $8500. Anyone should be able to navigate to it by the item address. Only one pic to speak of, so you'd have to contact the seller I suppose. FWIW
Mark

 

[cbarge]

68 VIP came with fender skirts..67's did not.
The 68 VIP interiors are much nicer with brocade cloth and vinyl.
I had a 68 VIP and loved it so much I drove it to the junkyard when she had nothing left to give.

 

[polaratherapy]

Basic criteria, does it run, drive and stop! What is your level of repair, you're only as good as your skills and tools!
Be prepared for the unexpected, no rust in the pilars, floors and drastic rust on the underside.
Bring a flash light and wear a work jacket and don't be afraid of lying on the ground to check the belly of the car.
In your mind, start tallying up all that looks like it would need attention, this way you are armed with counter points to drive the negotiated price down.
Being garaged for a long time helps with rust but it also dries out rubber as I am finding out with a recent aquisition.
All the rubber on the underside , bushings, shackles, exhaust support all need replacing on my 67 Newport.
It's a nice looking car from what I can see, but always go with your gut feeling! Good luck.

 

[nbbcrh]

Basic criteria, does it run, drive and stop! What is your level of repair, you're only as good as your skills and tools!
Be prepared for the unexpected, no rust in the pilars, floors and drastic rust on the underside.
Bring a flash light and wear a work jacket and don't be afraid of lying on the ground to check the belly of the car.
In your mind, start tallying up all that looks like it would need attention, this way you are armed with counter points to drive the negotiated price down.
Being garaged for a long time helps with rust but it also dries out rubber as I am finding out with a recent aquisition.
All the rubber on the underside , bushings, shackles, exhaust support all need replacing on my 67 Newport.
It's a nice looking car from what I can see, but always go with your gut feeling! Good luck.

As for the Budd front disc brakes on C-bodies. Other than the 4-piston disc brakes on Corvettes of that era, they were "normal" of sorts. 4 pistons meant more clamping force for the brake pads, but with the brake fluids of that era, accumulated internal moisture could result in pitting of the piston bores and leakage. Many Corvette owners would replace all of their caliper housings and such, to the tune of about $700.00/car for the complete rebuild, back then. One of the costs of owning a Corvette, so to speak.

From those issues is where the stainless steel sleeving of the piston bores came from. Rebuilt/sleeved caliper housings were a big deal back then, but the benefits of such resulted in that industry becoming as big as it came to be. And the rise of "Stainless Steel Brakes".

Now, for somebody to repro or adapt rotors.

To me, the power disc brakes would not be a deal-breaker, just a different "game to play". Finding good parts to "play with" can be an issue, whether for drum or disc brakes, as time progresses. In either case, it appears that a brake system rebuilt with quality parts and then putting synthetic brake fluid in them might be the ultimate fix? Drum or disc.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Thanks so much everyone, great help, let you all know what goes down whether I get it or not, a little weary because of one off trim, etc, will definitely check it over well before I pull a trigger, Thanks again, Ben

 

[detmatt]

The 15 inch wheels and hubcaps were an option but may also hint it may have front Budd disc brakes. Parts are scarce and expensive..heads up.
But they do work great!
Typically they came with the 318 or 383 2bbl with 383 4bbl HP and 440 optional.
4500 on the low end and top end 10-12K depending on overall condition.
Make sure it has all its trim.
Any rust bubbling under the vinyl top spells trouble.
Water from back window can ruin the trunk area too.
Good luck!

If it’s extremely nice I would add a couple of thousand to the top end in potential value but that’s just me.

 

[FURYGT]

RE: vinyl roof . . . on my '67 CE23, there were/are rust bubbles which appeared under the vinyl roof at the bottom of the vertical side chrome pieces by the glass, both sides, about 3-4" tall. Also, on the lh front section, above the windshield and a few inches back, a band of "hard vinyl" about 1 foot long and 3" or so side, back of the top windshield chrome trim. Otherwise, the original vinyl top of the car is soft and in good condition.

One plus is that the black vinyl will absorb more heat than the white vinyl top will, so any underlying moisture can get evaporated out quicker than the similar white vinyl top would. Under the vinyl overlay of the basic fabric, there is a decently-thick layer or heavy gauze which is what touches the metal top. THAT is where the moisture will collect and cause rust in later life. Replacement vinyl roof fabrics have a thinner layer than the OEMs did back then, termed "thin back", with the vinyl overlay being a bit thinner in build thickness too, by observation.

The "good thing" is that those back glasses were the first use of "glued-in" glass which Chrysler did. No formed gasket as the windshield has. I consider this to be a good thing.

In general: The car looks good in a good color combination. I would highly suspect the car has the front disc brakes, due to the 15" wheel covers. I was not aware of 15" wheels/wheel covers being a separate option on drum brake cars, BTAIM. The disc brakes can be a bit difficult to deal with, but if they still work well, you can plan on working on them later.

DO check for rust on the lower body areas, plus if the trunk has a flexible mat, look under it. If it's a thicker rubber mat, it can be brittle and will tear/break when moved, so be careful and respectful in that respect. Look in the sides of the trunk floor too. Look, too, for factory undercoat and hood pad. Casually walk around the car, lightly tapping the sheet metal with the center joint of a bent index finger, listening for thuds rather than a normal sheet metal sound.

Also pay attention to things the owner might have done, which are "not factory".

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

FYI, 15” rims & tires were an option on 1968 Fury’s. Same disc brake wheel cover but it used a different center cap that did not have “disc brakes” on the cap. I had a drum brake 1968 VIP that had this option.

 

[tallzag]

Correct furygt, my 440 4 speed vert has 15’s with G70-15 red lines with drum brakes.

 

[mrfury68]

Thanks so much everyone, great help, let you all know what goes down whether I get it or not, a little weary because of one off trim, etc, will definitely check it over well before I pull a trigger, Thanks again, Ben

As long as the lower body brushed stainless & fender wheel opening moulding are good, no worries. The other trim is the same as the Fury III or Sport Fury. Keep us posted & post more pics if possible.