No Brake Lights, But Turn Signals Work

Ghostultramarine

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My turn signals are working but the brake lights are not. The 1157 bulbs have been checked and the filaments are good (and I tried new bulbs just in case).

Any suggestions for what I should be checking to help track down the issue?

Also, when the headlights are on, there are no tail lights on.
 
Start by checking the ground to the tail light assemblies. Run a temporary ground wire to each assembly using alligator clips to a known good ground. Then get a test light and check the tail light circuit. Judging by the mess hanging out under the dash, you may not be getting power to the tail lights or the turn signals.

Dave
 
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Check the brake light switch! Does it get power? If so, then does it close properly? I replaced my mechanical switch with a hydraulic one from JEGS, which works well. Most folks like to keep the mech switch tho.

IFF you have power and a working switch, then its likely a grounding issue as Dave suggests. BUT, if you DON'T have power, check the fuse box. That brake light circuit can get funky there. The brake light power doesn't go through the headlight switch, directly, but rather from a circuit feeding your dash lights and such. There is a pink or light red wire from around the middle of your fuse box that feeds it. Be SURE that has power. From what you typed above,

"Also, when the headlights are on, there are no tail lights on."​

you might have a problem with this region. DO you have a good wiring diagram for your ride? Get one if you don't! They're free. Google for them or ask us here for a link.


Do as Dave suggests first. THAT EMINENTLY WISE dude has forgotten more than I can tell about these cars. I'm just a gifted hacker with a BSEE....
 
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No dash lights as well? Check the fuse.

Yep! AND, IFF that fuse is still good, start wiggling the tabs in there. Its a tricky, dicky connection by accidental design. About twice annually I need to massage that to keep it all right. A few folks on the Forum have found it thus too.
 
I am having similar, non consistent issue with the back end lights. I am honing in on the issue. I do think it is ultimately going to Reside in the turn signal switch. I have a new switch from She-mar (I have a tilt/telescope column), but I am going to start by reconditioning the existing connector down at the base of the column. Seems like if I give that connector a good wiggle, the rear lights come back to life…

my main issue is intermittent driver side break and blinker go out. My latest wiggle actually brought the dash blinker indicator back to life! I thought those died year ago.
 
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I am having similar, non consistent issue with the back end lights. I am honing in on the issue. I do think it is ultimately going to Reside in the turn signal switch. I have a new switch from She-mar (I have a tilt/telescope column), but I am going to start by reconditioning the existing connector down at the base of the column. Seems like if I give that connector a good wiggle, the rear lights come back to life…

my main issue is intermittent driver side break and blinker go out. My latest wiggle actually brought the dash blinker indicator back to life! I thought those ideas year ago.

I hope FOR YOUR SAKE THAT YOU HAVEN'T OPENED THAT SHE-MAR SWITCH until you've thoroughly EXHAUSTED EVERY OTHER CONTINGENCY. It may well be a connector issue, especially if the old connector has been oxidized, or the wires leading into have been stressed.

Can you make NEW connections which will interface the old connector RELIABLY? If so, do that, then see if your problem is solved. You might yet recuperate the price of the She-mar switch, though it gets harder every day of delay.

If you've unpacked the new switch, then try it and see if your problems vanish. They SHOULD, IFF the switch caused them! I suspect otherwise, though to be sure, worn out contacts in ONE part of a circuit will cause heat, oxidation and failure then in another...and another...ad nauseum,... ad infinitum, or at least until the harness goes Rice Crispies on you.

Now, have you tried hot-wiring each circuit lead from your steering column? THAT SHOULD light up the relevant lights downline from your connector. If NOT, then start tracing that bundle of wires back toward the trunk to the next unpluggable connectors; likely on the driver side, just behind the back seat in the forward area of the trunk, below the left speaker assembly or cutout.

Use a continuity tester from the switch to this connector, one conductor at a time. A test light here serves well.

Bring your hotwire back, and test each conductor to the rear lights at this point too. Any malfunction from this point is in the trunk wiring itself. Grounding issues become HEAVILY PROBABLE.

I pray your weather doesn't resemble mine down here, unless you have a controlled environment to work in.

Happy "rat-chasing" as we used to call such work in the electrician's apprenticeship I misspent several years in SO BADLY! At least I did learn how to use trade grade tools and methods though, in addition to evil vices.
 
Thanks for this @Gerald Morris

aside from the electrical issue, I do have a broken canceling cam on the left side blinker, so I will keep the switch. Yes, it was a small investment to buy it, but I’ll still be able to cover the kids college payment so it is worth having on the shelf in the garage. I do feel like rehabbing the connector will add a lot of life to the issue I am having. The longer I can delay pulling the column apart, the happier I will be.
 
My turn signals are working but the brake lights are not. The 1157 bulbs have been checked and the filaments are good (and I tried new bulbs just in case).

Any suggestions for what I should be checking to help track down the issue?

Also, when the headlights are on, there are no tail lights on.

You didn't say what year, but generally, the stop and tail lights are on the same fuse, so I would start there.

If it's not that, it could be a ground problem. Run a jumper wire to the tail light housings from a good ground to check.

My bet is on the fuse. Keep in mind, if it is a fuse, there has to be a reason for the fuse to blow.
 
I got done responding and then opened your other thread...

Got some fried wires and I'll bet some of it is tied into the circuits you are having trouble with.

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Pulled the kick panel off. No fuse block behind it. But there was a plastic bag and a pink tank top stuffed over the vent ...

Looked up and the fuse block is mounted under the dash.

It’s pretty corroded. Two fuses were burned out (one was a 10amp where it was supposed to be a 20). The taillights were not one of the two.

Got a qtip and some vinegar and tried cleaning the terminals.

Looks like rust, though ....

Perhaps a dremel and wire wheel(?).

Used a test light and it lit up on one side of the brake light fuse. Not on the other.

Tried the flashers - turned the switch on the dash - didn’t hear the relay. Asked daughter to see if they’re on and says, “no”. Then tried turn signal arm. I could hear the relay but she said they weren’t working.

&$&@!

Now I’ve lost signal lights?!

Then asked her if she looked in the trunk as we had pulled the bulb holders. They were working.

Feeling of relief.

Then tested brakes and she says, “yes”. Have to ask a few more times as I’m in state of disbelief. Parking lights are working too.

Phew!

Now for new plugs, wires and coil today. Completely bleed brakes. Replace tranny fluid and filter. Oil change.

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Oh! What’s the little knob under the dash?
 
That fuse box will come out (big screw), and each of the clips that hold the fuses in place can be removed from the fuse box for easier cleaning. There should be a semi-transparent plastic cover that goes over the other side of the fuse box to help water not get into it, but it's often removed.

Make note of which wires go where on the back so you can return them to their correct places. Rust will make a difference in connections, as you already know.
 
Wish I was there to give a hands on diagnosis.
As all know on this forum 68 Chrysler electrical is one of my strongest suits.
Lots of good advice already suggested but feel free to Pm me.
Personally with the prevoius hack job I would do a total gut and rewire and do the ammeter bypass.
Good luck.
 
Don't hesitate to take @cbarge up on his offer - he's an expert.

By the way, from the first pic in your wiring woes post, it looks like your trip odometer cable is disconnected from your speedo...
 
Thanks for this @Gerald Morris

aside from the electrical issue, I do have a broken canceling cam on the left side blinker, so I will keep the switch. Yes, it was a small investment to buy it, but I’ll still be able to cover the kids college payment so it is worth having on the shelf in the garage. I do feel like rehabbing the connector will add a lot of life to the issue I am having. The longer I can delay pulling the column apart, the happier I will be.

Cool. I too am afflicted w a broken cancelling cam. Steering columns come into that category of task which best is procrastinated, 4 SHORE!! I should pop for a new switch some day too...., while they're still available. Good on you!
 
Is your car equipped with a tilt/tele column? If so, the cable operated 66 switch is much easier to service than the later ones with all the bloody wires...

@Ghostultramarine - if you do have tilt/tele, you may find it a challenge to pull the top of the column apart, and there are some specific tools that will make the job easier... I have done it now enough times that I can offer some tips.

there are some very specific tools you need to do this without damage and that will make your life way easier.

Note that the steering wheel has a spline mark for returning the wheel back to the same place, but one is able to place the wheel anywhere. Look for it. Use a steering wheel puller or you can bend the wheel rim trying to get it to come loose, as well as punching yourself in the face when it does!!

1) Once the steering wheel is removed, there is a tubular cover that slides off the column behind the steering wheel - the turn signal lever and the tilt lever poke out of it and have to be removed. It is a friction fit and it's a PITA to remove. You need a 4 arm puller to do it, and work carefully or you'll bend the lip of the cover. Light taps with a rubber mallet will aid in the cover coming off. Make a grease pencil alignment mark on the cover and the column to aid in returning it to the right place, as you'll be surprised at how easy it is to misalign it when you reinstall it, and then you can't get your levers back into their proper places. There's no room for adjustment.

2) There is a very large C clip that fits into a groove under steering wheel that holds down the horn ring. It's heavily spring loaded and it's near impossible to depress the horn ring down to free up the C clip without a special tool - @detmatt and others can chime in here about how to do it. I made a tool using a plumbing fitting and a threaded rod to push down the horn ring. You can damage the lower column bearing trying to force things in this step too, so using the right tool will avoid that. I can show you pics on how to make one for about $3 in threaded rod and plastic plumbing parts...

Feel free to PM me with any concerns.
 
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I feel like I had success today, I do think the source of my issues were in the connector. There was quite a bit of corrosion in there, but some electrical cleaner and a wire brush got it ‘clean enough’. But I think the real problem was the wire pins were loose inside the connector. It looked like a couple of the wires would push out the back a little when I would put the connector back together. I spent some time bending the little side tabs a bit and it seemed to tighten things up a bit. Pushed it back together and everything lights up great! Fingers crossed it is a lasting fix.

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