Anyone try engine PRIMER before investing in paint?

[Gerald Morris]

Greetings C-body Moparians,

Seeing the dearth of good mid-1960s Chrysler turquoise lately, I'm pondering using a primer to protect the freshly bared, cleaned iron surface of the Commando 383 block I've begun cleaning for disassembly and inspection. Have any of you primed an engine surface prior to painting it? If so, does brand compatibility effect the quality of the final job? I would hate to spend $ on an incompatible primer. I also don't care for having to strip a surface more than once if it can be helped. If the cam bearings look good in this block, I don't want to boil them out, though, if things go otherwise, then my concerns about primer and paint will be postponed a bit. Still, 'tis best to plan, and to have alternatives planned early on. Your thoughts will be appreciated.

 

[Big_John]

I use Duplicolor engine enamel with their primer for everything.

The primer seems to help with adhesion, but the biggest help is the color covers much better. So, in the long run, the cost of using primer will come close to breaking even since you will use a lot less color.

One or two coats of primer with two or three coats of color seems to be the combination. Follow the directions on timing the coats.

 

[CBODY67]

LIGHT coats of everything, especially the first coats so the covering will get deep inside the texture of the as-cast metal. Too much, too soon, will just hit the peaks and not the valleys, which can make it easier to peel off later on.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[413]

In Tuscon is rusted metal a worry at all? Spray some oil on it until ready to finish it off. Then brake cleaner will get it ready.

I use paint only, no primer. Seems that to thick of paint buildup just causes problems.

Many restoration articles say to skip the primer on engines.
Works for me.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I use Duplicolor engine enamel with their primer for everything.

The primer seems to help with adhesion, but the biggest help is the color covers much better. So, in the long run, the cost of using primer will come close to breaking even since you will use a lot less color.

One or two coats of primer with two or three coats of color seems to be the combination. Follow the directions on timing the coats.

Good, sound advice as always Big John. Duplicolor has been in my Top 3 possible paint brands, so your suggestion has MUCH weight w me.

 

[Gerald Morris]

LIGHT coats of everything, especially the first coats so the covering will get deep inside the texture of the as-cast metal. Too much, too soon, will just hit the peaks and not the valleys, which can make it easier to peel off later on.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Yes, THIN coats to begin, for sure. I'll scrub, burnish, bath w acetone, then prime. Paint later when far enough along.

 

[Gerald Morris]

In Tuscon is rusted metal a worry at all? Spray some oil on it until ready to finish it off. Then brake cleaner will get it ready.

I use paint only, no primer. Seems that to thick of paint buildup just causes problems.

Many restoration articles say to skip the primer on engines.
Works for me.

Not a BIG worry, but rain has a nasty way of popping into being in this valley when not entirely expected. My machinist of choice shares your view on priming, but, given the availability of good paint, I'm apt to prime now just to protect the surface from rain, or, PIGEON ****. That latter can be a problem here. Cats, children and such also capable of mischief.

 

[413]

I've never used primer and it's always worked out good.

Would be good to clean prime and paint all at once. The primer will collect all those same problems as bare metal.

Put the engine and parts in plastic bags will keep it all off there.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I've never used primer and it's always worked out good.

Would be good to clean prime and paint all at once. The primer will collect all those same problems as bare metal.

Put the engine and parts in plastic bags will keep it all off there.

Plastic, labelled bags. I had the shortblock in a succession of Hefty 55 gallon bags for the past 9 yrs. The other 2 spares are in the storage locker. I think this one may be easiest to restore to good running condition. Flat top pistons, no ridge on the bores, and double spring valves on the 906 heads. Just dirty.....

 

[Fireflite56]

I authored this thread: Yet Another Chrysler Turquoise Engine Paint Thread....But Maybe The Last?

I did use a high-temp (Duplicolor?) primer on the tin (non-cast) surfaces prior to painting since the Hirsch paint I used came with that recommendation as it was a thin paint and ran easily. I will say that I think that it did help with this particular paint. So far, everything is holding up great with about 500 miles on it. The only signs of aging is a little discoloration on the intake where the exhaust crosses over, which was to be expected.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I authored this thread: Yet Another Chrysler Turquoise Engine Paint Thread....But Maybe The Last?

I did use a high-temp (Duplicolor?) primer on the tin (non-cast) surfaces prior to painting since the Hirsch paint I used came with that recommendation as it was a thin paint and ran easily. I will say that I think that it did help with this particular paint. So far, everything is holding up great with about 500 miles on it. The only signs of aging is a little discoloration on the intake where the exhaust crosses over, which was to be expected.

I'd considered the Hirsch stuff, but found a killer good deal on Duplicolor 1612 (primer) and 1619 (their Chrysler turquoise) and ordered a nice bit of the stuff. I still have to finish peeling all the ossified road petrol, old motor oil, dirt, **** and such which sticks to the iron on this block very tenaciously. I'll torch off some of it, but with all the heavily alkaline dirt cemented in with the hydrocarbons, a fair bit of work yet remains. I've worn down a knotted wire wheel about halfway thus far using a 25krpm cheap angle grinder. I expect I'll be shopping for a GOOD, all American <grinder 'ere I finish this job. Then, if the cam looks rough*, or I see other signs of serious chemical intrusion needed, I'll dunk this in a hot tank anyway.

*From what I see thus farm the cam looks fine, which is why I hope to avoid buggering the cam bearings. Much remains unseen though....

 

[Mopar2ya]

I never used to use the primer, but have started to, seems like the paint covers better, they also make a clear coat, but i haven't tried that, duplicolor is great! The VHT stuff is junk!!

 

[Gerald Morris]

I never used to use the primer, but have started to, seems like the paint covers better, they also make a clear coat, but i haven't tried that, duplicolor is great! The VHT stuff is junk!!

I liked how VHT's color matched the old paint, but it's moot now, as we can't get the ****. I scored a very good deal on some Duplicolor, and got primer and paint, enough to coat the engine a couple times anyway. I'm not spraying a droplet until ALL the work of assembly is done.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

With most of the restoration paints being expensive I have frequently used something close from the parts store to get coverage and then used the specialized paint for the final coats for color.


Alan

 

[Mopar2ya]

With most of the restoration paints being expensive I have frequently used something close from the parts store to get coverage and then used the spiralized paint for the final coats for color.


Alan

What is spiralized paint?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

What is spiralized paint?

Brain fart, specialized


Alan

 

[Gerald Morris]

What is spiralized paint?

Some GROOVY **** bro! Been there, seen it, but never huffed any....

 

[Mopar2ya]

Some GROOVY **** bro! Been there, seen it, but never huffed any....

With all the warnings on the can not to huff it, you kinda gotta huff it ( hey is that hemi orange on your nostrils?)

 

[Gerald Morris]

With all the warnings on the can not to huff it, you kinda gotta huff it ( hey is that hemi orange on your nostrils?)

Now if it was turquoise, I'd ascribe a remote probability to that. Seriously, I recall in days 40 years gone by in my native Fort Worth the groups of staggering young Mestizos around the intersection of Hemphill and Berry st carrying soda cans close to their tinted snouts. 10 yrs later, established in Toostoned, AZ, I had a woman who I ran into the county nut-hutch, and during my sole visit to her I pointed out a paint huffer in her ward. The pity was, while that dying bastard was crazy from all the severe, horrific damage inhaling hydrocarbon solvent vapor causes, he was no MORE insane, or incorrigible than the Cal Tech graduate from Marshall, Mo I had been foolish enough to be intimate with. There is just no substitute for dysgenic breeding to produce the most dangerous forms of insanity and EVIL.

 

[Two 67's]

KBS Coatings Real Good Stuff. Color for my 1967 383 was spot on. Follow the directions!