What carburetor should I go with?

70furyiii

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I've got a 70 Fury III with the 318. It currently has an edelbrock carburetor(manual choke) and edelbrock intake on it. The car sat for 5-10 years before I purchased it to restore a couple months ago. I am just looking for a carb with electric choke and that will come basically ready to go. I have a holley on my 66 mustang and love it so thinking I might go in same direction. The fury engine itself is stock but the car has electronic ignition and dual exhaust with flowmaster mufflers. I'm not sure if that matters but I just don't want to put too big of a carb on the car. Let me know what you think would be the best fit. As always, thank you for the help!
 
I've got a 70 Fury III with the 318. It currently has an edelbrock carburetor(manual choke) and edelbrock intake on it. The car sat for 5-10 years before I purchased it to restore a couple months ago. I am just looking for a carb with electric choke and that will come basically ready to go. I have a holley on my 66 mustang and love it so thinking I might go in same direction. The fury engine itself is stock but the car has electronic ignition and dual exhaust with flowmaster mufflers. I'm not sure if that matters but I just don't want to put too big of a carb on the car. Let me know what you think would be the best fit. As always, thank you for the help!
About the most you can get away with on a mostly stock 318 in terms of CFM is about 500cfm. Keep in mind that the 318 was primarily an economy engine with restrictive exhaust manifolds and heads so its flow rates won't support a big carb. Holley and Edelbrock both offer carbs in the 500cfm range.

Dave
 
I've got a 70 Fury III with the 318. It currently has an edelbrock carburetor(manual choke) and edelbrock intake on it. The car sat for 5-10 years before I purchased it to restore a couple months ago. I am just looking for a carb with electric choke and that will come basically ready to go. I have a holley on my 66 mustang and love it so thinking I might go in same direction. The fury engine itself is stock but the car has electronic ignition and dual exhaust with flowmaster mufflers. I'm not sure if that matters but I just don't want to put too big of a carb on the car. Let me know what you think would be the best fit. As always, thank you for the help!
The Edelbrock carb is pretty decent and IMHO, better than the Holley.

What you could do is add their electric choke kit to your existing carb. https://www.edelbrock.com/electric-choke-conversion-kit-for-performer-series-carburetors-1478.html
 
About the most you can get away with on a mostly stock 318 in terms of CFM is about 500cfm. Keep in mind that the 318 was primarily an economy engine with restrictive exhaust manifolds and heads so its flow rates won't support a big carb. Holley and Edelbrock both offer carbs in the 500cfm range.

Dave
Thank you, it currently has a 650 and I wondered if it was too much for this engine.
 
Holley now is not the same company as it was when you got the carb for the Mustang. I vote for the Edelbrock 500cfm. There should be a kit to put on your existing manual choke carb for the electric choke.

CBODY67
 
Thank you, it currently has a 650 and I wondered if it was too much for this engine.
I would bet it is.....a 440 from the factory only had an 800.....

Unless youve done some serious mods to a street driven 318, id bet a 650 is a poor choice.
 
Ran a 800cfm THERMOQUAD on my 73 318 powered wagon for years. It was never too much.
When sipping only on the primaries I managed a best of 24 MPG.
But put her to the floor and the economy literally get flushed down. Lol!
If you consider a Thermoquad, get a good one that is not a lean burn unit.
Btw some M body 318 cars did run TQ's before switching to Quadrabogs. Lol
They are a great carb that offers performance and good fuel economy.
Oh..and the sound!!
 
It SHOULD be understood that ultimate CFM on an engine has many side issues, as to the carb sitting on top of the intake manifold.

The secondaries of the Holley 4bbls are "self-sized" by the spring in the secondary diaphram which opens the secondary throttle plates. A carb which CAN do 700cfm will not open all of the way on an engine that does not need that much air flow . . . according to the old Holley (when it was a part of Colt Industries) information. Can the springs in the diaphram be changed? Certainly, as to rate of opening and how much opening is allowed.

The secondaries of the AVS and TQuad carbs can be manipulated, too. The spring tension on the secondary air valve can be tightened and loosened as needed, from the basic "stock" tension. Too much and a bog happens when they open. Too little and little opening happens at WOT. THIS is why a 750cfm QuadraJet or 800cfm TQuad can work on 250cid motors, especially with their small 1.38" primary throttle bores (and smaller venturi clusters),

AFBs usually had a counter-weighted "air valve" above the secondaries, too. UNLESS it is like the one which was OEM on my '67 Newport which had NO such thing on the secondaries. Which means it is a full manual secondary-operation AFB! After I gently dressed the outside of the venturi cluster to remove casting flash, WOT from idle would slightly bog the 383 whereas it did not before I did that. I believe that OEM AFB was about 575cfm?

In an old Rochester carb book (by S-A Designs), it was noted that as the emissions era progressed, the tab on the QJet secondary air valve opening linkage was raised to limit how much that air valve opened, which reduced the ultimate total CFM to about 650cfm.

When I got into the "Holley upgrade mode" on my '77 Camaro 305, the first one was an OEM-spec 4160 direct factory replacement for a '76 Impala 350. I could not feel any secondary opening at WOT, which probably meant it was not opening all of the way. When I upgraded that to a 650cfm 4175 spreadbore, I had to put a weaker spring in the secondary diaphram in order to just hear the secondaries opening at WOT and 2500+rpm in low gear. About two notches weaker than the spring it came with (OEM Factory replacement for a 1979 L82 Corvette 350).

SO, rather than talk about ultimate CFM ratings, look at the primary throttle bore diameters (throttle bore and venturi diameter dimensions). A 318 usually came with something about 1.44" 2bbl throttle bores, so something in that area would work well in an aftermarket carb, NO MATTER what the secondary sizings might be! Used to be that an approx 600cfm carb would have 1.56" throttle bores on all four bores, no matter the maker. As the larger 1.69" throttle bores means an approx 780cfm 4bbl carb (as the Holley 3310 of the later 1960s).

In more recent times, it seems that Holley is using the 1.69" throttle bores on all cfms of 4bbls, using the venturi sizes to modulate the air flow capabilities? Unlike in earlier times when venturi diameters and throttle bore diameters were used together. Such a design orientation could allow for decreased part numbers of "main bodies" for a multitude of carb flow capacities, saving money for the "New Holley" organization.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
I've got a 70 Fury III with the 318. It currently has an edelbrock carburetor(manual choke) and edelbrock intake on it. The car sat for 5-10 years before I purchased it to restore a couple months ago. I am just looking for a carb with electric choke and that will come basically ready to go. I have a holley on my 66 mustang and love it so thinking I might go in same direction. The fury engine itself is stock but the car has electronic ignition and dual exhaust with flowmaster mufflers. I'm not sure if that matters but I just don't want to put too big of a carb on the car. Let me know what you think would be the best fit. As always, thank you for the help!
What model Edelbrock intake do you have?
Are your sure the cam in your stock engine is stock?

Anyway, I put one of the eBay/Amazon $200 Edelbrock 4-barrel copies on my 75 Dart 318/auto. Not a very refined carb, not the smoothest driving carb overall, but works just fine. I haven't messed with it other than idle screws. Got no idea what cheap innards are in that carb. Or machining trash didn't get cleaned out.

Wouldn't have done it, but the car came to me with a Mopar 4-barrel intake.
 
Based on calculation ((318x5000x0.8)/3456) you’d only need about 370 CFM size carb. But they are all jetted lean from the factory, so likely, if you insist on putting it on out of the box (which I do not recommend), a 500 cfm would be plenty enough.
 
Define "lean". Is the suspected AFR 15.0 or similar? Against a stoichiometric (ideal) AFR of 14.7 (with E0) or 14.2 (with E10)? With the power "Stoch" being in the 12.7 range with E0 fuels of old.

Personally, if I'm going to be using a carb for normal driving, with E0 fuel, I WANT it to be near "Stoich" rather than richer. As long as the plugs don't show chalky white on the ceramic insulators AND it does not cause lean sags on any (mild or heavier) acceleration or lean surge at cruise.

Just curious . . .
CBODY67
 
Thank you, it currently has a 650 and I wondered if it was too much for this engine.
It might be.... And by some opinions and various calculators it is.

That said, if it were mine I would just try it as is. Drive it and see if it falls on its face or runs well. It wouldn't surprise in the least if it ran OK. If it does well, buy the electric choke kit and you've saved a few hundred bucks.
 
I have a 4 barrel mopar intake manifold that a thermoquad will fit
 
I just receiver one of those $120 Quadrajet electric choke carburetor copies from Temu/eBay.
I'm goanna stick it on my 67 Toronado with 425 motor (it's a drop on) and see if it will run the motor reasonably well.

If so, I'm going to suffer the rigmarole of trying/fitting it on my 72 New Yorker 440 with the low rpm spread bore Edelbrock Performer manifold that's on there now that doesn't fit the whatever Holly (750?) square bore very well that's on the manifold now.

I share this because I don't remember ever being able to over carb anything with the old quad carbs.
 
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