Had my new stuff, coated tank, pump and edelbrock running like a new one, some time back. Let it sit for a few months, and now, oh my gosh.....will hardly run. Pulled the carb and found green crap and stuck float needles....bad stuck. And, the accel pump check was stuck as well. So, a simple question that relates to a fuel additive that might help. A former note suggests marvel mystery oil.....and maybe we could try a bit of 2 stroke lube oil. But just wanted to ask about any additive thoughts. Yes, run her more often....and yes, always have used non ethanol with sea foam. One cannot get to the float bowls to suck out the fuel, but maybe replace with electric pump and shut it down first. Hmmm.....thoughts and experience please.
More on float needle sticking
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
The advantage of the 2-stroke motor oil is to put lubricity back into the fuel. Lubricity that Seafoam and ethanol tend to take out, as they can (especially the ethanol component in the fuel) dry out and "degrease" the items the fuel touches.
Not sure about the green stuff you mention or where it might come from.
Back in the later 1980s and "lead replacement additives", I was using some Stewart-Warner CD-2 lead replacement additive. Had a nice 1 ounce measuring container at the top of the plastic bottle. One day, after the car had sat for a week or so, I went to start it and it would not start. The battery would spin the engine fine, but no start. I determined the rest of the carb to be working fine, but the accel pump was not. I finally gave up and went to the car show in another car.
When I went back to see what was going on, a week later, knowing that the accel pump on the 9801 TQuad was not squirting, I removed the pump output nozzle. Under it is the weighted "check valve" for the accel pump's output channel. That item was STUCK inside its channel. It is triangle-shaped so it would not stick in the round hole, but it was firmly stuck. I got a thin screwdriver and got it loosened up and removed. On the outside of the triangle, there was a thin sheet of clear material. I flaked it off to get the check valve cleaned back up. After cleaning and reinstalling, all worked as designed.
The particular CD-2 fuel additive was a "sodium-based" liquid. One of the main additive formulations at the time. The other one was "oil based", as I recall. So I drove the car a good bit to get the old fuel out and new fuel put in. Didn't use that additive any more! No more problems of that nature.
What form was the green stuff in? Flaky, soft, somewhat liquid, "slime", or harder? Just curious.
Take care,
CBODY67
Not sure about the green stuff you mention or where it might come from.
Back in the later 1980s and "lead replacement additives", I was using some Stewart-Warner CD-2 lead replacement additive. Had a nice 1 ounce measuring container at the top of the plastic bottle. One day, after the car had sat for a week or so, I went to start it and it would not start. The battery would spin the engine fine, but no start. I determined the rest of the carb to be working fine, but the accel pump was not. I finally gave up and went to the car show in another car.
When I went back to see what was going on, a week later, knowing that the accel pump on the 9801 TQuad was not squirting, I removed the pump output nozzle. Under it is the weighted "check valve" for the accel pump's output channel. That item was STUCK inside its channel. It is triangle-shaped so it would not stick in the round hole, but it was firmly stuck. I got a thin screwdriver and got it loosened up and removed. On the outside of the triangle, there was a thin sheet of clear material. I flaked it off to get the check valve cleaned back up. After cleaning and reinstalling, all worked as designed.
The particular CD-2 fuel additive was a "sodium-based" liquid. One of the main additive formulations at the time. The other one was "oil based", as I recall. So I drove the car a good bit to get the old fuel out and new fuel put in. Didn't use that additive any more! No more problems of that nature.
What form was the green stuff in? Flaky, soft, somewhat liquid, "slime", or harder? Just curious.
Take care,
CBODY67
I have only begun to clean out the float bowls.....that had what looked like a soft buildup in places that actually had pieces of mung. Other areas are still cruddy after using a cotton swab and carb cleaner....did not come off. Need a soft brush to finish. This is some kind of chemical process.....not good on that myself, but the clear filter has remained OK thru all of this.
I did forget, but you reminded me, that the accelerator pump was also stuck. It was stuck internally, as it moves on its sprung shaft as it is depressed. And, when I removed it and tried it in the lower bowl by hand, it would not push into its bore until I limbered things up with my fingers and a bit of silicone. After that, and after removing the brass check valve weight for a clean, all worked well. So, the interior passages, including the boosters, seem ok.
I can deal with the mice, with a combo of traps, Vamoose, and an electronic defender, and I can manage most other things for the car sitting, but this nonsense is not easy. Thought I would be OK, since most of the small motorcycle, lawn and garden stuff with non ethanol and sea foam have survived winters fine, and longer storage.....but not the mopar. Aaargh
I did forget, but you reminded me, that the accelerator pump was also stuck. It was stuck internally, as it moves on its sprung shaft as it is depressed. And, when I removed it and tried it in the lower bowl by hand, it would not push into its bore until I limbered things up with my fingers and a bit of silicone. After that, and after removing the brass check valve weight for a clean, all worked well. So, the interior passages, including the boosters, seem ok.
I can deal with the mice, with a combo of traps, Vamoose, and an electronic defender, and I can manage most other things for the car sitting, but this nonsense is not easy. Thought I would be OK, since most of the small motorcycle, lawn and garden stuff with non ethanol and sea foam have survived winters fine, and longer storage.....but not the mopar. Aaargh
Had that on my AFB bad Water sucked into the ethanol. Stabil seems to keep it away.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Try Berryman's B-12 Chemtool, if you can get the stuff. They used to make a fuel additive variety too. I once immersed an old Autolite 21XX which ran my 351C in a B-12 dip, and it helped enormously. Mind you, folks were buying GOOD gasoline Waybackthen, with moonshine still a hot topic of debate. Still, years of sitting had stuck that carb up BAD, and the B-12 immersion did well for it.
If I had to park a vehicle for more than a month today, I'd drain the gas tank, and every component upline from it. Petrol is volatile as hell, and deteriorates quickly, regardless of what chemicals get added to it. The additives often catalyze the very deterioration they're advertised to prevent. I trust none of them.
Jakter
Well-Known Member
The OP says he always used Non-Ethanol gas.
I use Ethanol blend fuel and Marvel Mystery Oil in everything that requires gas and never have a problem with how the engines run.
I have an Echo string trimmer that I've had for 30 years and twice now have had to replace the three hole grommet on the fuel tank because it appeared it shrunk a little and the fuel leaked there, hardly anything worth searching non-ethanol gas over.
I use Ethanol blend fuel and Marvel Mystery Oil in everything that requires gas and never have a problem with how the engines run.
I have an Echo string trimmer that I've had for 30 years and twice now have had to replace the three hole grommet on the fuel tank because it appeared it shrunk a little and the fuel leaked there, hardly anything worth searching non-ethanol gas over.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I had one of those...DOUBLE COATED IN FACT! The former owner had allowed the original tank to rust out through the top, and then had the tank coated inside and out with some plastic crap. That stuff did OK w petrol, but failed to stop rats. The rats gnawed through that stuff, then nested in the tank, coating it yet again, with their fur, feces, urea, barn dirt et cetera. Such coating produced sub-optimal results with the fuel filters, clogging them sometimes in minutes. I replaced the tank with the nice shiny new steel one I had inherited from our then defunct '66, and you know the rest of the story from that point. I observed that the plastic coating WAS peeling in spots also, though the rat-piss might have catalyzed that.
Several companies make a fuel tank sealer, and this time I used POR. Their kit has precleaners. My tank had minor light rust, that cleaned chemically first. I have used this type coating in several motorcycles of old, and had great luck with them. When done, the inside looks amazing. I would suspect that if it deteriorated, it would clog the fuel strainer....but who knows. The color of this kit was a light tan color, and I have seen nothing of concern in my in line fuel filters.
Am still leaning either marvel or 2 stroke mix oil....to try to slow the sticking.
But, I agree with Gerald, I may just take five minutes to remove the Edelbrock, and flip it over, and replace....this real gas will evap in just a few days when sitting. Much more gooderer to just drive em, oh well.
Am still leaning either marvel or 2 stroke mix oil....to try to slow the sticking.
But, I agree with Gerald, I may just take five minutes to remove the Edelbrock, and flip it over, and replace....this real gas will evap in just a few days when sitting. Much more gooderer to just drive em, oh well.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
THAT'S THE STUFF! Pity it wasn't rodent-proof, but few things in this Kosmos are....
Yah, pop it off, dip it if you have a good "magic potion" then bolt back on and run it! Wish I could buy some REAL petrol, but Political Rectumtood down here dicktates otherwise....
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