For Sale Very Sought After Forward Look Car - Very Nice Restoration Candidate

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saforwardlook

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This is one of the most desirable and rare Forward Look cars I have seen in some time. With 9 days still left in the auction, it already has 20 bids. These are so rare, I wouldn't be too surprised if it goes for more than a 1958 Chrysler 300D in the same condition. It is very original and unmolested, and a perfect restoration candidate. The rust isn't bad at all for one of these cars and the undercarriage is excellent. To realize this car is virtually 60 years old, it is a real find. I expect it will probably go for at least $20K. It was the last year of the production 392 Hemi. Nicely optioned - power windows, power seats and much more.

1958 Chrysler New Yorker 2-door | eBay

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I have a 1958 Chrysler New Yorker 2-door hardtop for sale. 1 of 3205 produced for the model year.

This car is 99% complete, 99% original, in original paint, and has been a dry Colorado car its whole life. 89,901 miles are believed to be original as well.

Blue on blue. 345hp Hemi. Power brakes, power windows, power seat, third horn.

The car starts, runs, drives, stops, and does not overheat. And at the moment, almost everything works - gauges, horn, power seat, speedometer, etc. Until recently however, it had been non-operational for a very, very long time... As such, I cannot say it's running at a high enough level to be daily-driver material. It needs a complete mechanical refresh, some of which I've begun to address. I've been driving it around and sorting out the issues a little at a time.

Brakes are completely new including drums, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, hoses, seals, shoes and wheelstuds. The original Kelsey-Hayes booster is functional, and the car stops very well.

Correct original 14" wheels are freshly powdercoated and shorn with $1000 worth of BFG Silvertown whitewalls.

New fuel tank. Sender works.

Engine is original to the car and remarkably untouched down to the plug wires. It runs, but not great, and will need a tune-up at the least.

For the numbers people: The block is stamped 58N2514. The AFB is a 2651S and dated J7 (freshly rebuilt). Fuel pump #M2503SA, Dated A7. Radiator #1686597, Dated G7. Generator #1842801 / GJM-8001A; freshly rebuilt but not numbers-correct. Etcetera.

The pushbutton shifter functions properly and the transmission hits all gears correctly, but it leaks quite a bit from the input shaft seal until the car warms up.

Body-wise, there is isolated corrosion in the usual locations, but the car is not a rust-bucket by any means. Will need some repair in the
floors, rockers, lower quarters, and trunk dropoffs. Trunk floor is very good, and floors are mostly good. Hood, decklid, cowl, fenders and doors are either excellent or needing only isolated metalwork. Frame and undercarriage show only surface rust and zero rot.

This car has never been in an accident.

Bumpers, trim, scripts, and brightwork all present and with few exceptions in very good or very workable condition.

Very nice all-original glass.

The interior is 100% complete with the exception of the driver's side seat hinge cover. Condition is what you'd expect from its 59 years
and will need to be restored. I did remove, clean and lubricate the seat tracks; the switch is not functioning consistently but the tracks
do move in all six directions as they should.

Both front power windows are functioning very well. Both rears are stuck.

I do have spare trim, good wheel covers, taillights, a very good grille, and a few other misc. spares that go with the car.

Colorado title is clean, clear, and in my name. This exceedingly rare car needs and deserves a complete restoration, and is being sold as such. Car is for sale locally; listing can be ended at any time. I'm happy to answer any questions about the car and can be reached at 303.941.0272.

I envision what this would look like next to my 1957 Chrysler 300C, but alas, I am overloaded already. :BangHead:

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I don't usually like the length or finned tail lamp look (bat mobile) but this car is in exceptional shape someone will be having some fun
 
Love the car, looks very very solid and original. I'm guessing the reserve will be very high which doesn't leave much coin for the resto. This one will take deep pockets.
 
Steve, with all the experience you have acquired being so deeply involved with the restoration of these type of cars, what would the wise man have to budget to get this car into a #2+ condition.
 
If someone gets this car for less than 15K, they should feel guilty ...... and lucky.
Collector Car Market Review Value Report
1958 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 392-345hp (8cyl-4V) AT


MOBILE
#5 #4 #3 #2 #1
2dr Convertible 10400 21575 39850 56325 79675
2dr Hardtop 3350 12400 23975 33950 52150
4dr Hardtop 1950 7025 13050 19425 28775
4dr Sedan 1575 5425 10350 15775 22800
Town & Ctry 4dr Wagon 3800 7925 20250 30850 49625

Add:
Air conditioning 12%
Power windows 3%
 
IF it does not need anything mechanical....6k for paint bodywork and 5k for interior. That does not include a dashpad and if all chrome can be cleaned to be presentable. . It appears the same color as my '59 Imperial (Noctrane Blue). I don't agree to just clear coat it when it could look like my car..

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[QUOTE="commando1, what would the wise man have to budget to get this car into a #2+ condition.[/QUOTE]

IMHO ..... 25K will bring it to a solid #2 + condition.
Of course that would depend on doing most of the labor ones self.
 
Simply stunning lines. Clean Exner design at its best.
 
IF it does not need anything mechanical....6k for paint bodywork and 5k for interior. That does not include a dashpad and if all chrome can be cleaned to be presentable. . It appears the same color as my '59 Imperial (Noctrane Blue). I don't agree to just clear coat it when it could look like my car..

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$6,000 for paint and body work sounds like 1999 prices. But I like your optimism!
 
I don't agree to just clear coat it when it could look like my car..
But clearcoat and drive can be undone, and car painted, anytime. This car looks to have original paint on it (as seller claims) and that can never be gotten back.

Personally, I think it was kinda silly to do the wheels and tires at this stage of the game, the cost of powdercaoting could've gone to some used 15" wheels and tires and some rattlecan paint, and the $1000 gone toward more mechanical freshening. But that's just me.
 
This car deserves a Full Frame off Resto but at the Same time It is a Survivor. It has survived 60 years Untouched. I find it stunning even in it's current state. This car has me A Bit torn. Restoring it or leaving as is, I dont think you can really go wrong either way.
 
Steve, with all the experience you have acquired being so deeply involved with the restoration of these type of cars, what would the wise man have to budget to get this car into a #2+ condition.

Interesting question Stan. I have never really tried to do a #2 restoration - I like these cars so much, I like to see them showroom. If I had to skimp, I might not chrome everything that needs it and leave some very slight pits I guess, not replace the windshield if it looks pretty good, maybe not go completely through the engine given it has 89K on it, and these 392s are good for a lot more miles before needing complete rebuilding, this one already has had the brakes gone through, and maybe use some less than the best paint, and settle for something less than perfect body work/paint, etc. But I would hate the car when I was done. I tend to be a perfectionist, and it has to be right and like new for me to like it (but I wouldn't drive it much either then :BangHead: ). There is no perfect solution. To do it right would require a $12-$14K body work + paint job based on my past cars in today's prices and labor hours involved, and the body has to be straight and flat - no waves - it has to be a virtually perfect mirror. My body guy is on site at my shop 4 days/week (with 2 of those days for me and the rest for himself on his cars and maybe one customer the other two days), and he is a perfectionist - just what I want and the body/paint work he does is in the price range above when he is done. Here are a couple photos of a generally tough to do 1969 Roadrunner that he did for a friend of his recently (any distorsions in the reflections are due to the many curves on these bodies and the various character lines/intersections, etc. rather than issues with the bodywork. A fuselage C body would be a great mirror due to its lack of undulating curves down the sides lengthwise, unlike a Roadrunner).

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I would redo the whole interior (seats, door panels, carpet, headliner, chrome trim inside) and take the instrument panel completely out of the car and go through everything - new dashpad from RD Autoline ($600) and go through all the instruments and redo all the chrome on the dash and replace the instrument cluster lenses (note the stress lines on those plastic lenses due to age) and have the radio gone through and make sure all the wiring is right and all the electrical components are in good shape, etc. I would rebuild the torqueflite myself (and at 89K it would probably only need a rebuild kit and probably a new drive sleeve and a new rebuilt torque converter). Suspension would have to be rebuilt, new axle bearings/seals, etc. And a lot of chrome work is needed on these cars, an ever increasing proposition - maybe on the order of $8K for that alone. And tons of detailing. For me, all these expenses would probably exceed $40 - $45K as my best estimate, doing all the mechanical work myself (I would farm out the seat covers and door panels though, probably to SMS) and leaving all the body work (proper welding of any metal patch panels with only the slightest amount of filler possible and then there is a quality primer and probably 2 stage quality paint) to my body and paint guy. So I would be money ahead probably trying to find one already done, but I rarely like hardly any of the restored cars because I never know how well they were really done, and usually they have lots of issues every time. I guess I like restoring my own cars even more than driving them to be honest, so probably I am not the best guy to estimate the cost for a #2 car. I personally think Will is a little low for a #2 car, but then what constitutes #2 is probably debateable too. So this is about the best I can do................:confused:

Maybe my friend Scott (rexus31) can chime in as he also likes his cars very nice and he has been through this with his 1965 red Chrysler 300 convertible since he is pretty much like me in what a car needs to be like.
 
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I like the car a lot.

I would leave the paint "as is" even though it is at the edge for me, too.
I definetly would not clearcoat it.
When it would be pulled out and driven it would be nice weather and the rest of the time it sits dry inside so no reason to ruin the patina with clearcoat for me.

I would do doorpenels etc. Everything that is really rough.

I bet a swarm of swedes/scandinavians are in the serious bidder group, too

Carsten
 
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