sputtering/ coughing after replacing points

Either will work till they don't. One of the great things that appeals to me about my 69 Fury III is it is all mechanical except the radio. Points worked well for many years for a Sh!# load of cars. I don't mind the minor fiddling around and actually like it. Condensers can be a problem but hasn't happened to me yet. If it does I know the symptoms.
 
The new condenser reall suck. I test them cold and hot with a capacitance meter usually hot they go bad half the time. I don't use any of the new parts usually Mopar or good NORS from the 70.s they have a really low fail rate less than five percent.
 
Take it back to CarCrap or Blottozone and ***** like hell. It won't help, but with a 30% defect rate on new Chicom condensers, maybe they will get tired of the complaints and find a new source, at worst you might get a new condenser that works.

Dave
That sounds good until you realize that the store where you bought the points and condenser probably only sold one set this year and that was to you.

A lot of the replacement electronic/electrical parts are junk these days. They carry things like points only because there is some small demand, but once that demand goes away, and that won't be long now, they'll stop carrying them. A large failure rate isn't going to help because rather than sourcing the parts somewhere else (not a lot of choice), they'll just be even faster to drop the line.
 
Nothing wrong with points.
Nothing wrong with converting to electronic ignition.
But aftermarket parts lately have been just plain crap.
Even Dave Freiburger of Roadkill ranted about this when changing points on the off road Challenger project.

I have the Summit electronic conversion kit in the Boab. No issues.
I installed Pertronix on many others cars with no issues.
Unless I have a 100% concours gold certified original time capsule that is only running on and off a trailer, my preference is get rid of points since I love driving my cars.
 
I run a petronix in my car no issues. I am doing a 64 barracuda slant 5K original miles and wont be a trailer queen will be a driver but trying to stay as original as possible. The GM 4 pin is great also with a mopar electric distributor. Set up a bunch of them for guys.
 
The GM 4 pin is great also with a mopar electric distributor.

I really think that this is the best setup right now. Dependable, well performing setup with only two electronic parts and inexpensive to build.
 
Guys worrying about aftermarket Mopar ECUs need to learn to wire in the GM setup, three's nothing tricky about it. Then carry an extra for insurance.
I run older 'genuine' MSD stuff (pre-China-knockoff), so I don't need anything except dizzycaps and rotors.
 
I really think that this is the best setup right now. Dependable, well performing setup with only two electronic parts and inexpensive to build.
I have thought about putting one of these together for the 65
 
I run Mopar breaker points and NOS condensers after 1 mishap in 2018 some sino-sewage that lasted about 10 days. My 40-50 yr old condensers give me no trouble to speak of, though I replace them annually just to keep things perky. Same for my 50 yr old points, though I replace them normally every 6 months if not using Mathilda much. I think I'll do points this weekend, as its been a busy summer. I get very nice performance from that old engine, normally pulling 17-18 inches vacuum at curb idle. I love breaker point ignitions! I've had the orange box and reluctor distributor on my 66 New Yorker 15 yrs ago. It had nasty ways of suddenly burning up the ballast resistors, quitting then starting again etc... It was hot when hot, and dead when not. I'll stick w points and condensers.
 
That sounds good until you realize that the store where you bought the points and condenser probably only sold one set this year and that was to you.

A lot of the replacement electronic/electrical parts are junk these days. They carry things like points only because there is some small demand, but once that demand goes away, and that won't be long now, they'll stop carrying them. A large failure rate isn't going to help because rather than sourcing the parts somewhere else (not a lot of choice), they'll just be even faster to drop the line.

VERY LIKELY TRUE! Thats why I get my NOS points on eBay. I have about 7 yrs worth right now.
 
I run Mopar breaker points and NOS condensers after 1 mishap in 2018 some sino-sewage that lasted about 10 days. My 40-50 yr old condensers give me no trouble to speak of, though I replace them annually just to keep things perky. Same for my 50 yr old points, though I replace them normally every 6 months if not using Mathilda much. I think I'll do points this weekend, as its been a busy summer. I get very nice performance from that old engine, normally pulling 17-18 inches vacuum at curb idle. I love breaker point ignitions! I've had the orange box and reluctor distributor on my 66 New Yorker 15 yrs ago. It had nasty ways of suddenly burning up the ballast resistors, quitting then starting again etc... It was hot when hot, and dead when not. I'll stick w points and condensers.

Totally agree with the old parts. The new condensers have a high fail rate especially when they get hot. I only use older nos/nors points and condensers. Point suck also new very low spring tension on most of them.

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Totally agree with the old parts. The new condensers have a high fail rate especially when they get hot. I only use older nos/nors points and condensers. Point suck also new very low spring tension on most of them.

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Sure thing. 50 yrs ago, the factories AND workers in them were in prime condition. Quality control excelled corporate beancounter moneylust. That began to tilt toward today's disgusting imbalance during the late 1970s, when Mopar killed the C body as one example. My headlights, points, condensers all were made during the Age of Golden Detroit Iron and will be the ONLY stuff I install when available. I look forward to running one of your distributors. Let's see how the $$ rolls in this Fall.
 
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