What headlights are you running?

swisherred

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I have a burned out bulb and want to know what headlights y'all are using and what you are happy with. The only thing around me is Sylvania xtravision but I'm considering converting to hella h4. Already building the relay kit into things as it is.
 
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I hate... HATE these new bulbs. On my survivors I use standard non halogen bulbs. On the runners, basic halogen. Nothing super bright because I hate the A hole coming the other way with those damn lights.
 
the hellas have the correct shields and reflector to be a good headlight that doesnt blind others when aligned correctly....from what I understand....i know I hated the old lights because i could never see, but the new ones are too bright...I also dont know what will actually fit. New bulbs never fit my 66 coronet very well...
 
I hate... HATE these new bulbs. On my survivors I use standard non halogen bulbs. On the runners, basic halogen. Nothing super bright because I hate the A hole coming the other way with those damn lights.

I will give a second vote for the factory, non-halogen bulbs. These cars had good headlights when new. Most of the problems with dim lights as the cars aged was due to poor grounding of the core support, corroded connections in the firewall plug, corroded terminals for the dimmer switch or corroded terminals in the light switch. All of these problems are easily corrected. You are off to a good start by bypassing the load on the firewall plug and the light switch with new wiring to a relay. Run a ground strap from the core support to the ground lead on the negative battery cable. Use wiring from the dimmer switch to activate two relays, one for high beam and one for low beam, replace the dimmer switch and plug if necessary. It takes very minimal amperage to cycle the relays. Run clean fused power to both relays for the headlight load circuit, you can do this off the big terminal on the starter relay, that way the fusible link remains as a fail safe in case of a big short someplace. I would also suggest a circuit breaker, appropriately sized, on the load side of both relays as added protection. I like to start this conversion with a new light switch and a new dimmer switch so I know I have good connections. You will also want to check the ground connection from the headlights to the core support and all headlight plugs for corrosion. Install new plugs as necessary.

Finally, a lot of these C-Bodies have settled down some at the rear end as the rear springs have aged. This in turn will cause the headlights to be aimed too high which provides poor lighting to the street surface where it is needed, check the aim on your lights before doing anything else. Also check the operating voltage of the charging circuit to be sure you have adequate voltage to properly energize the lighting circuit for good bright lights.

Dave
 
I will give a second vote for the factory, non-halogen bulbs. These cars had good headlights when new. Most of the problems with dim lights as the cars aged was due to poor grounding of the core support, corroded connections in the firewall plug, corroded terminals for the dimmer switch or corroded terminals in the light switch. All of these problems are easily corrected. You are off to a good start by bypassing the load on the firewall plug and the light switch with new wiring to a relay. Run a ground strap from the core support to the ground lead on the negative battery cable. Use wiring from the dimmer switch to activate two relays, one for high beam and one for low beam, replace the dimmer switch and plug if necessary. It takes very minimal amperage to cycle the relays. Run clean fused power to both relays for the headlight load circuit, you can do this off the big terminal on the starter relay, that way the fusible link remains as a fail safe in case of a big short someplace. I would also suggest a circuit breaker, appropriately sized, on the load side of both relays as added protection. I like to start this conversion with a new light switch and a new dimmer switch so I know I have good connections. You will also want to check the ground connection from the headlights to the core support and all headlight plugs for corrosion. Install new plugs as necessary.

Finally, a lot of these C-Bodies have settled down some at the rear end as the rear springs have aged. This in turn will cause the headlights to be aimed too high which provides poor lighting to the street surface where it is needed, check the aim on your lights before doing anything else. Also check the operating voltage of the charging circuit to be sure you have adequate voltage to properly energize the lighting circuit for good bright lights.

Dave
Good points there on the grounding straps, connections and suspension. I am using the old connectors at the headlights but installing new packard pins and 12 g high temp wire for those, 6g from the starter relay to a circuit breaker and using the original wiring as a trigger. Everything inside the car works fine and has been cleaned or repaired/replaced/rebuilt. I just rewired the entire dash too. I just want the best lighting I can afford without spending money i dont have to for something that doesnt work any better.
 
Hella BiFocus low beams with 50w bulbs. Hella H1 high beams with 100w bulbs. 10 gauge power feeds to the high beams in a custom built, relay operated harness.
 
The BoaB is running Hella H4 low beams and H1 high beams with PIAA super white bulbs powered by a Putco wire harness with two relays.
After the big road trips during the BoaB World Tour,I can honestly say they work excellent and has the longest throw of light.

The 66 300 is running low beam sealed halogens and vintage GE 25 plus incandescent high beams with a relay harness and is not as bright but can see down the road well with all 4 lights on.
The Waygun has HID's in vintage Carello H4 housings and are the brightest but has a shorter throw.

In other words,I tried all different ways and bottom line is what I am running in the BoaB I like the best.
Looks stock too!
Regardless of what lighting you choose,alignment is very important for optimum headlight performance.
boab october 2017 013.JPG

boab october 2017 017.JPG

boab october 2017 021.JPG

newfie 2016 300 lites 160.JPG

newfie 2016 300 lites 161.JPG

waygun lighting 004.JPG

waygun lighting 009.JPG
waygun lighting 009.JPG
 
At least with the Hella's the bulbs are readily available compared to the sealed beams which are becoming harder to get.

HID's are PITA and when a bulb goes out you need to make sure it is a bulb or ballast or both and not cheap to replace and not readily available especially when you are travelling.
 
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The BoaB is running Hella H4 low beams and H1 high beams with PIAA super white bulbs powered by a Putco wire harness with two relays.
After the big road trips during the BoaB World Tour,I can honestly say they work excellent and has the longest throw of light.

The 66 300 is running low beam sealed halogens and vintage GE 25 plus incandescent high beams with a relay harness and is not as bright but can see down the road well with all 4 lights on.
The Waygun has HID's in vintage Carello H4 housings and are the brightest but has a shorter throw.

In other words,I tried all different ways and bottom line is what I am running in the BoaB I like the best.
Looks stock too!
Regardless of what lighting you choose,alignment is very important for optimum headlight performance.
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Where did you get those headlight aimers?
 
Where did you get those headlight aimers?
Bought them through my local parts store that was sitting on the shelf for years.Old stock never used til I bought them. Old school technology that has no demand in today's broad market. 150 bux!!
 
If I were to switch to the hella h4....which model would I need to convert all 4 and still function in the same manner as stock...(2 low or 4 high).

5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp Kit, High/Low Beam (ECE) 002850811
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp, High/Low Beam (ECE) 002850871
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp Kit, High Beam (ECE) 002425811
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp, High Beam (ECE) H11425011
 
I use GE sealed low (4000) and high (4001) beams from my large stash of headlights. Having already installed relays in most of my cars I get pretty bright light from them without going to halogens.
 
If I were to switch to the hella h4....which model would I need to convert all 4 and still function in the same manner as stock...(2 low or 4 high).

5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp Kit, High/Low Beam (ECE) 002850811
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp, High/Low Beam (ECE) 002850871
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp Kit, High Beam (ECE) 002425811
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp, High Beam (ECE) H11425011

This is what I am running..
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp Kit, High/Low Beam (ECE) 002850811
5-3/4" Round Conversion Headlamp Kit, High Beam (ECE) 002425811
I use this harness exclusively
https://www.amazon.ca/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
61lg%2BE3BKTL._SL1500_.jpg
 
Member on FABO, crackedback sell a conversion kit to convert over to relays. It’s plug n play
 
I hate... HATE these new bulbs. On my survivors I use standard non halogen bulbs. On the runners, basic halogen. Nothing super bright because I hate the A hole coming the other way with those damn lights.
I agree. The standard replacement bulbs are more than adequate. Worse than the halogens are the leds. Blinding light when coming at you and it diffuses, so it doesn’t really project that much further.
 
I agree. The standard replacement bulbs are more than adequate. Worse than the halogens are the leds. Blinding light when coming at you and it diffuses, so it doesn’t really project that much further.
I agree that the new LED headlights are bothersome. They bug me more than the HID's. Plus they have a very short throw of light.

However LED park and turn signals,interior lights are very effective and uses way less power.
 
Ok...turns out my bulb was good...just a bad connection. Holding off on upgrading the bulbsfor the moment but got the relays installed today. As soon as I finish cleaning up and repainting the grill I will find out what difference they made. Already swapped almost every bulb in the car out for LEDs. If nothing else just to reduce the heat against the lenses. Probably going to rewire the parking lights to be on with the headlights as well.
 
I agree that the new LED headlights are bothersome. They bug me more than the HID's. Plus they have a very short throw of light.

However LED park and turn signals,interior lights are very effective and uses way less power.
True. And LED taillights are a plus too. That’s something you want to be brighter and more visible.
 
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