1965 Chrysler Tow Hitch Fabrication

Carl K

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I've finally finished with the tow hitch for my '65 New Yorker. I used the general layout that Chrysler provided to the customers who ordered a tow package.
hitch.jpg

I didn't want to weld it to the unibody, because knowing my luck I'd need to drop the gas tank. I also wanted to drill as few holes as possible. For the attachment near the rear bumper, I used the four bumper holes. This required a jog in the cross member to clear the fuel tank filler.
hitch_Fab2201.JPG

My dad milled the slots to match the bumper irons.
HITCH01.JPG

The forward loop attaches to the outsides of the unibody "frame rails".
hitch_Fab13.JPG

I did drill the "frame rails" for the forward loop but I sleeved the holes so the frame wouldn't crush.
hitch_Fab07.JPG
After all seventeen pieces were welded together, it looked like this.
IMG_3145.JPG

And finally, back from the powdercoater.
hitch_final02.JPG

hitch_final01.JPG

Here it is under the car, with all new Grade 5 9/16 fasteners. I haven't put the bumper on yet, but will get a couple shots tomorrow.
hitch_final05.JPG

It just clears the empty fuel tank, when full it might rest on the hitch but that's okay with me.
hitch_final06.JPG

It took a long time, mostly because I don't have a MIG welder (TIG only), but I'm really pleased and it turned out nicer than if I would have asked U-Haul to make one for me.

Carl K.
 
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Carl, I really love your work on this. I have 2 questions... why grade 5 instead of grade 8? I'm not implying your wrong, I simply have a "bigger, better, stronger, overkill mentality". It appears you have some of that yourself. The other question, which I didn't see in your pics... did you make a plate for the inside of the frame rails (love the sleeves) or just use fender washers?

Not criticism... just curiosity... BTW 3rd question, what do you suppose your towing capacity is with this setup?
 
Carl, I really love your work on this. I have 2 questions... why grade 5 instead of grade 8? I'm not implying your wrong, I simply have a "bigger, better, stronger, overkill mentality". It appears you have some of that yourself. The other question, which I didn't see in your pics... did you make a plate for the inside of the frame rails (love the sleeves) or just use fender washers?

Not criticism... just curiosity... BTW 3rd question, what do you suppose your towing capacity is with this setup?
The theory of using Gr 5 bolts for a hitch is the Gr 5 bolt will bend where a Gr 8 bolt might snap. That's always subject to debate though and if you read up on it, both sides make very good points. IIRC, the hitch manufacturers always used Gr 5 bolts.

In this case, a 9/16 Gr 5 bolt is good enough no matter the argument about bend v. snap and I'm not going to get in any debate about it myself.
 
Man you could pull a tank with that hitch! Great work!

Did you by any chance make up some drawings for others to copy?:rolleyes:
 
hitch_layout.jpg


Thanks for all the nice comments. I'm hoping this will help the next guy who needs to make a hitch. I didn't see anything when I searched the archives.

I didn't make drawings, but I did lay out the general design so I knew how much steel to buy. The details were worked out as I went along- a lot of tacking parts together under the car and then to the bench for welding, then back under the car for a fit check to make sure the heat didn't distort them.

I'd guess it's at least a class III hitch. The important part is that it's designed to be load distributing. I'll be pulling a '64 Airstream Safari. It's rated at 3200 lbs. but scales out at 3850 lbs. when fully loaded.

I am using large washers, not doubler plates, on the inside of the frame rails. With sufficient bolt pre-load, the forces should be transmitted from the hitch to the rails through friction, not bolt shear.

Carl
 
Nice job!! With dual exhaust to boot!!
What system are you running??
TTi in their instructions claim to remove the hitch to run their system.
Your thoughts??
 
View attachment 72616

I'm hoping this will help the next guy who needs to make a hitch. I didn't see anything when I searched the archives.

Actually the trailer hitch subject has been hit on here before. I built a hitch for Jazabell that ended up a direct crossover to my 69 Suburban, (and likely any 69-72 C body).
It's not quite as elaborate as Carls, but can be removed and reinstalled with ease in just a short time. Plus NO new holes needed to be drilled in the car, It's a direct bolt in.

I've towed my pop up behind Jazebelle over 6K miles, and my Vintage 19' camper, (approx. 3200#'s), behind the Admiral for over 2500 miles with no issues.

The design is for a fuselage C body but could be adapted to just about any application.
Heres a link.


Trailer hitch

DSC01087 (Large).JPG


DSC01088 (Large).JPG


road trip ready 3 (Large).JPG
 
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Bluefury361-
I stand corrected- I had seen your hitch design! I guess it didn't register because the way yours attaches isn't applicable to the slabs. It appears your bumper brackets bolt to the sides of the frame rails- slabs are bolted to the rear valance.

I did have a look at the factory hitch design that a fuselage used:
fuselage_hitch.jpg

Your hitch is very similar to the rear portion of the Load Equalizer Hitch. I like your modifications that allow easy removal.

Carl
 
Thanks for posting all of this guys, my car had a hitch on it when i bought it. But I didn't know what kind of rating it had. You can kind of see it in my avatar pic over there.
 
not only functional but a great way to protect the bottom of the bumper from scraping as you leave a steep parking lot grade!
 

I've towed my pop up behind Jazebelle over 6K miles, and my Vintage 19' camper, (approx. 3200#'s), behind the Admiral for over 2500 miles with no issues.

The design is for a fuselage C body but could be adapted to just about any application.
Heres a link.


Trailer hitch
Damn already 2,500 miles very impressive, and over 6,000 on Jazebelle Wow!
 
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