1966 300 & Similar: Kickdown Linkage Questions

[Boomer]

Need some help from other owners of 300s or models with the same linkage/carb setup for the transmission kickdown. Mine arrived disconnected and when I finally got a chance to look it over this past weekend, I discovered a few things.

First, with the stock crab swapped out for the Edlebrock, instead of one pin for throttle and kickdown (according to the service manual illustration, at lest), this carb has two. Looks like it could easily fit up on the same main pin where the throttle cable is attached, or down below where a large spring now resides.

Second, the original return spring is missing. No idea where to find something like this. The throttle spring looks a bit tired as well so maybe I can track down the pair.

There's a large black spring added to the side and hooked where the return spring would go on the front bracket.

Lastly, no matter where I try to hook the linkage arm, it drags on the vacuum booster hose. The arm actually has a small elbow bend in it so I'm wondering if perhaps someone swapped it around to try to line up with the outisde pin on the Edlebrock crab. Should the elbow face up or down? And which side of the pivot arm should it be clipped to?

I actually placed it on one of the pins just to see if it would fit and left it there. When I started the car later and revved the engine a bit, the car would edge backward a bit, even though it was in Park. Removed the linkage and it stopped. I know the missing return spring is likely the culprit here, but wondering if it might be pointing at other problems too.

Adjusting it properly will be another matter, once it is hooked up properly and operating freely.

Photos attached. Anyone have a shot or two of their linkage for comparison?

 

[commando1]

For starters,
Move acc. cabl outward.
Move lg. return spring inward.
Sm. return spring goes inside lg. return spring.
The return springs need a long straight tang so as to not interfere with the cable operation.

My car is up in the air right now so I apologize for not having pictures.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

As for the kickdown rod, adjust it by threading or unthreading the slotted end.
To adjust it, move the throttle all the way back, Wide Open Throttle.
In this position the kickdown should just slip on with the linkage pushed back and the throttle stud at the back of the slot.

The drive test is simple, late shift adjust one way, hard shift the other, don't recall which way for each.


Alan

 

[Boomer]

That's okay, Stan - you confirmed the thought I had this morning about moving the throttle cable over. Saw it when I was posting the pics and thought.....hmmm....wonder why it's not on the other side?

So move the throttle to the right, and hook the kickdown out on the far pin after the black spring is moved? Swap spring duties(move heavy black spring to throttle and lighter spring into the hole on the kickdown link)? Would have to do something about the big booster hose right above it.

Edit: okay, I missed the part about the small spring going inside the black spring. How does that work or what is the purpose? One needs to hook into the end of the kickdown arm.

 

[commando1]

The purpose is redundancy for safety.



I also just noticed you have no spring between the linkage and the kick down linkage.

 

[Boomer]

Okay, thanks. I was looking at the original layout in the manual and wondering.

I'll still need to track down a return spring for the kickdown, looks to be somewhat shorter.

 

[440_Magnum]

Here's how my 1966 Polara is set up. Its not a factory 4-bbl car, but was converted using 100% factory parts, except for the carb itself. Note how the accelerator cable clamp actually lines up with the inboard segment of the pin, where it belongs. I agree with the post above that your easiest immediate option is to install the accelerator on the outboard part of the pin, but technically that's not correct. Looks like your car has the wrong accelerator cable clamp / kickdown pivot bracket. The one non-standard thing in this photo is how the kicdown-only return spring is configured. I've since changed it so that it runs to the spring bracket and assists the primary throttle-return springs in addition to holding the kickdown link forward.

 

[440_Magnum]

Okay, thanks. I was looking at the original layout in the manual and wondering.

I'll still need to track down a return spring for the kickdown, looks to be somewhat shorter.

Its been a while, but you used to be able to buy generic throttle return springs in a parts store in a couple of different strengths. A light-weight generic spring makes a good kickdown spring, if you can find one.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

The purpose is redundancy for safety.

View attachment 66093

I also just noticed you have no spring between the linkage and the kick down linkage.

The outboard spring (the smaller one) hooks to the end of the kickdown rod, there should be a hole in front of the slot.

All noted in the FSM



Alan

 

[rexus31]

Here's the stock linkage on my '65 Chrysler 300. This should be the exact same setup at your '66.

 

[440_Magnum]

On closer inspection, I think your "pin" is installed in the wrong hole on the carburetor's throttle bracket, your accelerator cable clamp is correct. Compare to my photo- the large-diameter hole is unused in a Mopar linkage setup with an Edelbrock carb. The pin should go in the hole where your carb has a "ball and socket" linkage ball installed and the bright/shiny return spring is attached. That should make everything line up correctly.

 

[commando1]

When another member goes to their FSM, it requires the mandatory scolding for the poster for not having one in the first place.


This technical illustration is for a 1967 383.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Actually I went to MyMopar.com and downloaded the 66 Chrysler book and looked it up (in regards to this question).

In 67 the kickdown spring goes to the rear, that is how my Barracuda is.

Here is the illustration from the 66 Chrysler FSM.




Alan

 

[MrMoparCHP]

<delete>
opps, somehow I posted the same thing twice

 

[commando1]

In 67 the kickdown spring goes to the rear...

The trivial details I learn here is scary.
66... Front.
67... Rear.

Another one for the Concours judges.

 

[440_Magnum]

The trivial details I learn here is scary.
66... Front.
67... Rear.

Another one for the Concours judges.

And either one will work just fine connected either way.... But that would be rejected by the concours judges.


But I want to say again: he's got an Edelbrock carb much like I have. The root problem is the pin's installed in the wrong hole.

 

[Boomer]

I was always warned about getting things into the wrong hole. Someone else is responsible this time, at least!

There's a lot of great info in these posts as well as the photos. The photo posted by rexus looks to be dead nuts on to my service manual (yes, I have one and used it) but certainly doesn't match my car due to a couple things. The dual pin set up on the Edelbrock is most obvious, but also....

The linkage arm with the slot that fits over the pin - it looks from Stan's photo like the bend faces upward. Can't tell in the rexus photo if it's up or down, but compared to both photos, it looks like my linkage was moved to the other side of the pivot arm/bracket/whatever it's called next to the firewall. If so, the likely explanation is that they re-bent the linkage the other way. Moving it to the other side would give an additional half to three-quarters inch offset away from the side of the carb.

This is one of the main things I wanted photos for, to see what's going on there, or what should be. It's clear now that the brake booster hose would normally be sitting above the A/C lines which have been removed for now, allowing it to hang down and contact the arm. Easy fix.

As to the pin locations: that's a good catch. It looks like if I move the main pin over to the side where the ball and socket pin is, then put the throttle inboard and the kickdown outboard of the bracket, it should workout right. If you look closely in the pics, they've actually got the cable cocked up against the carb and resting on part of its linkage. As by buddy John would say "You really need to un-F... that". It will probably require adjustments all around since the outboard bracket is about an inch closer to the firewall, but still far better than what it is now.

Many thanks, guys. Not sure when I'll get to it but will report back when I do. Maybe Thursday evening. Actually looks more fun than annoying for a change!

 

[Boomer]

Forgot to add - if you look at the photo from the manual that Alan posted, you can see why I needed photos. The linkage has been cut away in the illustration, so no idea if the bend belonged up or down. Stan's manual photo is much better, just different than my set up.

 

[440_Magnum]

I was always warned about getting things into the wrong hole.

I set 'em up, and you knock 'em down. I was wondering who'd go for that one first...

If you look closely in the pics, they've actually got the cable cocked up against the carb and resting on part of its linkage. As by buddy John would say "You really need to un-F... that".

I was wondering about that and couldn't tell if it was just an illusion in the photo. But yeah, with the cable routed the way it looks like its routed, that "tang" part of the linkage (its the WOT choke-unloader) is just going to bind on the cable and you won't get much throttle travel.

Hope it all works out smoothly.

 

[Boomer]

Finally got some time and good weather today ad got back to this. Saving the shorted headlight switch for later.

Found a supposedly NOS kickdown spring that looks more like the throttle return spring, but between that and the one that was on there, I think it will work - provided the old spring doesn't break again. Need to replace it too, trying to get the main mess sorted first. Got the kickdown slot flattened back out, too. It was bent sideways probably to match up with the messed up installation.

Attached are more photos of the kludged setup I have. Wondering now if the carb on here was meant for another vehicle or, at least, the linkage. See photos below.

After removing the main pin where everything was attached and the secondary pin where the black bed spring was attached, it became apparent that either the carb linkage is wrong for this car or I need to drill out the plate that is further out - the main pin (throttle on one side, kickdown on the other) won't fit through the holes to re-mount it there.

Had already discovered from photos posted by others that the throttle cable needs to be moved back and attached at the aluminum sleeve, guessing this will mean some readjustment will be in order under the dash?

Just wondering if what I'm about to do makes sense, or if I should look for an original or different carb. Drilling this side plate larger isn't going to leave a lot of meat around the pin.