1966 Fury III - Unfinished Project

I bought a dipstick but it's a universal and it's too long.

From the top of the tube, could somebody measure their dipstick for me so I can cut this one, and measure the low/high marks from the top? Please?

Thanks

Phil
 
I can measure mine on my 66 T&C for you, but it's a 440... so I am not 100% certain that the dipsticks are the same length.

Regardless, perhaps someone can verify as to whether the dipsticks are the same length.

Stand by.
 
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18" from the tip to the bottom of the handle plug:

20230216_213904.jpg


22" tip to end of handle loop

20230216_214202.jpg


Add mark at 1 & 5/8th", full mark at 1 & 3/4"


20230216_214445.jpg
 
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I checked my parts book - EXCEPT for Hemi Engines, all auto transmissions in 66 regardless of body designation use the same dipstick - 2466 302, and the seal at the top is 1316 815.
 
Just a point to ponder - your spark plug wires look AWFULLY close to those header pipes...
A temporary arrangement. I need to get the right wires for it. This is what was in the box I got with the car, and most of that so far has been wrong.

Also, ended up with generic dipstick because nobody locally could find a cross reference. Everything came up 27" for the 727. Which again, is wrong for '66.
20230216_211612.jpg

Got it calibrated. I'll fire it up tomorrow and see where it sits in D. Right now it's way too high, but the torque converter definitely drains down on this gearbox.

Phil
 
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Well - if you're not overly concerned about the engine, then you could get a fairly accurate read on the trans fluid that way - run it in neutral to fill the converter and the valve body, then check. It would still take you about 45 seconds that way, and the more I think of it, the more I don't like it.

Think of it this way: running an engine with no coolant at all puts major stress on the parts of the engine that have no coolant - however, when an engine with a full coolant system is cold, the coolant that remains trapped in the block still functions as coolant until the thermostat opens and allows the coolant to flow and itself be cooled in the radiator. No coolant in the block is really bad, all around, in my opinion. That's why in some manuals it is recommended that if coolant has been drained from the engine, you pull the thermostat, fill the block with coolant and reinstall the thermostat before running the engine.
 
Well - if you're not overly concerned about the engine, then you could get a fairly accurate read on the trans fluid that way - run it in neutral to fill the converter and the valve body, then check. It would still take you about 45 seconds that way, and the more I think of it, the more I don't like it.

Think of it this way: running an engine with no coolant at all puts major stress on the parts of the engine that have no coolant - however, when an engine with a full coolant system is cold, the coolant that remains trapped in the block still functions as coolant until the thermostat opens and allows the coolant to flow and itself be cooled in the radiator. No coolant in the block is really bad, all around, in my opinion. That's why in some manuals it is recommended that if coolant has been drained from the engine, you pull the thermostat, fill the block with coolant and reinstall the thermostat before running the engine.
Absolutely. I understand the limitations of cast iron. Running this for more than a couple minutes, especially with load is a quick way to crack the block.
The bores are shot, the cam is shot.. the only good things in its' favor is it doesn't leak oil and the oil pressure is good.

My kids will be driving this car so its getting an engine I am not overly concerned about because kids will be kids. They might as well trash an engine I have very few dollars in. It's not the original engine either, that originality is long gone.

Plan for this car is for it to be a driver.

Phil
 
Heck, you figure it's got a bunch of miles on, is at maximum overbore and two pots are barrel shaped. I refaced the valves by turning them down carefully on my twist drill against a file, then lapped them in to the seats. The guides on the center four cylinders are sloppy, so the heads have been real hot. The rear four cylinders were full of water and the engine was locked solid at the beginning of this year because of that.

I have a spare block. I'm just running this one until it gets too rattly to ignore.
 
How about filling the block with coolant and instead of a thermostat you make some sort of block off plate so the engine isn't dry and can be run for longer than 15 seconds...? Proceed at own risk.
 
How about filling the block with coolant and instead of a thermostat you make some sort of block off plate so the engine isn't dry and can be run for longer than 15 seconds...? Proceed at own risk.
I need to change a couple of the freeze plugs, and get the hoses. I have the radiator in so that can all be hooked up.

I need to get the correct pulleys for the front of the engine before the water pump can run.

The heater line will just be looped to itself for now.

I need to cobble an exhaust together, open headers is a bit loud.
 
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