1966 Fury III - Unfinished Project

I have seen bypassing heater hoses like that lead to overheating. A friends heater core had begun leaking and someone had joined the two hoses with an old wrist pin. The engine began to boil and temp gauge pegged. On a hunch I replaced the wrist pin with a solid piece of round stock. Cooling returned to "normal".
Just me experience some 40 years ago. FWIW Lindsay
 
I have seen bypassing heater hoses like that lead to overheating. A friends heater core had begun leaking and someone had joined the two hoses with an old wrist pin. The engine began to boil and temp gauge pegged. On a hunch I replaced the wrist pin with a solid piece of round stock. Cooling returned to "normal".
Just me experience some 40 years ago. FWIW Lindsay
Guessing it just flowed too much that route rather than the way it should. Good to know. Thanks!
 
Howdy, all.

I am proud(?!) to intruduce y'all to my latest vehicle- The Unfinished Project: '66 Fury III.

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Hot on the heels of my previous car ('51 Pontiac Chieftain) this is taking up residence in the garage representing the next decade along.
It has a sad backstory- rescued from a farm, it's a white with blue interior, 318 auto car which was purchased by the previous owner in Mississippi. He was in the Navy and bought the car to fix up for his son to drive when he turned 16. He handed the car off to a bodyshop because he was being stationed out of state for a while; they were given instructions to fix up the body, smooth off the trim, de-handle, de-seam and make a nice semi-custom job. They sent photos, sent invoices which he was paying, sending them parts as they requested... He got back a little early to find the car as you see it there- painted badly in his son's choice of color (mauve poly) with a few tubs of Bondo thrown at it from a distance.
They rebuilt the engine. Oh yes they did! Very well!
6 pistons were in the wrong bank (rods backwards), the worst bores are nearly 0.008" over size from being whizzed hard with a dingleball leading to the worst ring gap of 0.030" on already 0.040" overbore pots. The valve rockers were put in randomly and a couple rings were on upside down. My guess is they were Ford or Chevy guys. Or just cowboys. No telling.

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So, I put it back together and checked see if it ran- it does, after a fashion but it'll have some serious piston slap. Shame, as the crank is excellent and within tolerances. It's got good oil pressure. It'll get the car mobile, at least. The transmission was rebuilt by painting it black. Most excellent.

The interior, well, that's mostly junk. Knew that much. The seats and frames are good, really just need recovering, but it needs a new dash and while the headliner is moderately good it's brittle and has a few poor repairs. The floor is gone in the usual spots because the firewall has gone in the usual spots and leaked, causing the looping rust issues. Gonna sort that out. Trunk too, that has a repair panel that's been attached with pigeon-poop around part of its periphery (to come out and be redone).
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Seen worse. Bodyshop repaired it by painting it over with red oxide.

I been stripping the stainless trim pieces off the gutters and around the rear window last night (gotta love those trim clips, but they're easier than getting the strips off a bent gutter rail).
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Something's hit the rail but nothing else is bent or dented and that prevented me getting the trim off cleanly which burns my behind. One spot needs a little new metal letting in and the rest will dolly straight enough for the trim to hide the wrinkles.

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I deleted the "trim delete". Trim is going back on. It's a Fury 3, not a Fury 1. They zotted a couple holes up with weld but didn't dress anything back.
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Window trim out, and the (known about because of the sharp filler edges on the top of the scuttle) crunchy Mopar-standard screen corner rot is present- doesn't look too advanced but I know the scuttle is holed so that'll take a few small patches.
I don't think the rubber is flexible enough to allow the glass to come out so that'll probably end up getting cut off and forcibly ejected so I can sort the window aperture out properly.

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All good fun, I'll put the outer lights in the "For Sale" section because they are in good shape but for Fury I/II so are the narrow surround version.

So, there you go. Gonna have a fun time undoing Doctor Bondo's work and making good again. Also, the mauve is growing on me the more I look at it. I think it'll go either the same color or a darker flat purple. Time will tell.

Phil
I have a 66 fury 3 in San Angelo tx you can have for parts car if you go get it
 
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Question, the wheels on the car above- standard or wider than normal? They look non standard, I'm trying to figure what the closest radial size tire is to bump the diameter up a bit.
The tires I have on (that came with the car) 185/65/R14 are a bit short and look lost in the wheel wells. I'm thinking 205/65/R14.

What's on your rims?
 
Ummm, in a word, no. Those are too small.

Your original 14s would ave bedn taller and equate to a modern size of 125/75R14, and even better would be 135/75R14.
 
Ummm, in a word, no. Those are too small.

Your original 14s would ave bedn taller and equate to a modern size of 125/75R14, and even better would be 135/75R14.

I was considering getting a set of bias ply tires in the correct dimensions.
They're expensive and my kids will be hard on the gas, hard on the brakes so that's why I was looking at radials because I'm going to have to change them often.
The fat/wide "police spec" look (yes, yes, I know they didn't have that size nor shape back then) is a happy medium for me in respect to cost versus handling, ride and aesthetics.

Phil
 
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I was considering getting a set of bias ply tires in the correct dimensions.
They're expensive and my kids will be hard on the gas, hard on the brakes so that's why I was looking at radials because I'm going to have to change them often.
The fat/wide "police spec" look (yes, yes, I know they didn't have that size nor shape back then) is a happy medium for me in respect to cost versus handling, ride and aesthetics.

Phil

Phil: You should consider an upgrade to fifteen inch wheels. That would considerably widen your choice of tires. I put 7" wide fifteens on my convertible with 235 X 75 Hankooks, and they are great and not expensive. Rip
 
Phil: You should consider an upgrade to fifteen inch wheels. That would considerably widen your choice of tires. I put 7" wide fifteens on my convertible with 235 X 75 Hankooks, and they are great and not expensive. Rip
Do you recall what your rims are from? I'm not very good with American wheels, even now.
 
I think many of my 15" wheels came off a dodge pick up at a local yard. They had them pulled and ready for me when I got there. I simply told the 15", 5 x 4-1/2, and 7" width.
At the "yard" here- I think that would yield a funny look and a spit on the floor. And no wheels.
 
Look for 80's fifth Aves. They're 15 x 7 and look great. Myself and many others find they are just the ticket. The diplomats mentioned above are the same, but not as common of a junkyard find.
 
There's very little in any yard around here.

What happened was so many vehicles were displaced when New Orleans flooded, the yards clocked in and turned all the vehicles they had prior for scrap when the price was good; these days it's just post 2010 on average.
 
Had a look at the engine today, to see if I could fit the alternator and see how it all lines up to whichever pulley.
I need to order the long bolt and shims- I have a pair of brackets (no idea if they're correct, I think they are) but no other hardware.

Had trouble getting the engine to idle. Adjusted the ignition timing, now it idles mostly smoothly. Throttle pump doesn't work very well so it coughs a bit off idle but this carb was completely trashed so I'm ok with that.

I need to put the timing light on it and see where it is now, probably completely not where the timing mark is...

Phil
 
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Okay, so this ps pump seems to line up with the third groove on the crank pulley.
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The rest of it don't line up for squat- I need to get a proper bolt for the top mount of the alternator and then see where it lines up with.

The water pump pulley doesn't even fit, it collides with the crank pulley.

I cannot find a listing for a water pump pulley smaller than 6" diameter, they're all much bigger than that, and most aren't as deep.

Looks like a post '70 water pump (passenger side water hose exit) with possibly an early crank pulley and a 67-70 water pump pulley

I'm confused. Not much has part numbers stamped in (the water pump pulley has "S" and that's it) so I have no clue. Frustrating.
 
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The water pump pulley and this PS pump appear to line up, but the bracket for the PS pump does not (too narrow).

Can anyone identify the combination of year parts I have?

I don't know the engines well enough. I just need to get things to match on the front, preferably without breaking the bank.

I'll admit to have gone looking for complete engines on eBay this morning. There's a couple cheap 440's right now. Tempting, but that comes with it's own set of problems.
 
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I just measured my earlier WP (driver's side lower hose). It measures 4 1/2 inches from the gasket face to the outside of the flange, where the pulley sits. My WP pulley measures 6 1/4 and the crank groove is the same. The outer groove on the crank pulley is 6 3/4. My outer groove is unused- armstrong steering!
All of these dimensions are as accurate as I can manage without disassembly.
My alternator bracket does not have the offset yours has and there is a sleeve (spacer) between the head and the alternator and another between the rear alternator "ear" and the bracket.
Alternator alignment can be altered by changing the lengths of the spacer sleeves.
Hope this might help. Lindsay
 
I just measured my earlier WP (driver's side lower hose). It measures 4 1/2 inches from the gasket face to the outside of the flange, where the pulley sits. My WP pulley measures 6 1/4 and the crank groove is the same. The outer groove on the crank pulley is 6 3/4. My outer groove is unused- armstrong steering!
All of these dimensions are as accurate as I can manage without disassembly.
My alternator bracket does not have the offset yours has and there is a sleeve (spacer) between the head and the alternator and another between the rear alternator "ear" and the bracket.
Alternator alignment can be altered by changing the lengths of the spacer sleeves.
Hope this might help. Lindsay
Disregard my alternator, it's not mounted properly right now.

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For as best parallax as I could do with my phone, seems to be the same despite being the later model pump.

My crank pulley is 7½" so that's going to be the problem between the water pump and crank.

Phil
 
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