1. kenfyoozed

    kenfyoozed New Member

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    Just picked up a 1967 newport with a 383. Engine runs but when placed into gear nothing happens. In reverse it moved about 6 inches very slowly then nothing. There is no movement in any other gear. It does have fluid and it is full. Any thoughts? I am new to all of this.....
     
  2. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I sounds like the transmission filter is probably clogged. I would start by draining the convertor and drop the transmission pan. If the pan is full of black gunk, more than about a tablespoon, the transmission is likely shot. You can try doing a band adjustment and replacing the filter as sometimes that will get you by for a time. If you still have nothing after the band adjustment and fluid/filter change, you need to rebuild the transmission. FSM gives good detail on how to do the band adjustment.

    Dave
     
  3. Snotty

    Snotty Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I agree. Check the simple stuff first; all might be well after a service.
     
  4. kenfyoozed

    kenfyoozed New Member

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    downloading manuals now so I can learn how to do all this.....
     
  5. 413

    413 New Member

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    Did you check the fluid while idling in neutral? Try that and see the level it could be 4quarts low from sitting.
     
  6. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    In the mean time, check to see if there are any GOOD trans shops in your area that "know" Chrysler TorqueFlite 727s. How much for a general rebuild using OEM-spec bands/clutches, etc., with a converter and cooler (w/lines) flush.

    I suspect that if there's fluid in the trans and "nothing happens", even if the filter is restricted with friction material, a new filter might then indicate a worn front pump, etc. The band adjustments might be a diagnostic situation, but I wouldn't count on it fixing anything. Just my gut suspicion. And I might be wrong, too! Hoping that I am, but do the checks just in case you need a reman unit or rebuild your existing trans.

    Just a normal OEM-spec rebuild is all you need. Letting somebody do "some little tricks" of their own can cause other operational issues, by observation. Maybe some upgraded friction plates or band, but nothing else. Get it running well and THEN do the shift kit stuff, if desired. B&M, TCI, and others have overhaul kits and such. Maybe even something in Mopar Perf?

    Keep us posted,
    CBODY67
     
  7. rkrochen

    rkrochen Member

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    Probably more to it than something that is easily fixed. Does it feel like it is trying to engage?
    A band adjustment won’t do anything for for it as the bands only work on second gear and reverse.
    My suggestion is to drop the pan and see what’s at the bottom. Send some pics of the slug. Also what colour is the oil and does it smell burnt.
    There are pressure ports you can tap into to check what the pressures are. You can find this info in the FSM.
     
  8. kenfyoozed

    kenfyoozed New Member

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    I checked the fluid with the engine warm and in neutral and the level seems fine if not a bit more full than should be. When shifting between the gears there is no feeling that it goes into any gear. The indicator on the dash does not move but watching the arm on the trans through the engine bay it does seem that the linkage is working.

    Pardon my ignorance but what does FSM stand for?
     
  9. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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  10. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    You have a pump problem.
    If you have first in drive the rear band is broken/bad
    No second gear, front band is bad no high gear front clutch is bad.
    Loud noises clanging, broken hard parts.
    My guess is the front pump support is worn bleeding off pressure, or you have some serious contamination in the pan which means it needs to come apart.
    You can disconnect the front cooler line and see if the converter is sending oil to cooler, anything but a solid stream with engine running see above.
     
  11. kenfyoozed

    kenfyoozed New Member

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    Is it worth having it rebuilt or just purchase a remanufactured unit from Summit, Jegs or an outfit like that?
     
  12. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Depends on the transmission shop you can find.
     
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  13. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    A good trans shop will be better than a rebuild from Jegs etc. Emphasis on "good".
     
  14. jct

    jct Senior Member

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  15. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Very good indeed, maybe overkill for near stock car.
    Performance transmission is closer to him in Memphis TN I believe.
     
  16. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    In general, best to try to rebuild what you have. Many trans shops have access to good used internal guts rather than purchasing new items, which can hel on the cost . . . for a normal OEM-spec rebuild. What the hot rod industry might supply will possibly be a hp-oriented unit that might not do well with your current application. AND you'll still need to swap out the speedo gears so the speedometer works correctly!

    You're not needing "rocket science", just a good solid OEM-spec rebuild. IF the bands are broken, no big deal as they will be replaced anyway. If the front pump is worn out, then a good used one might be obtained by the shop. If one of the drums' outer surface has a wear pattern on it, that can be polished out, possibly. Look for a rebuild kit in RockAuto so you can get a ballpark price for that and what's in it, just so you'll know. Network with some of the local car enthusiasts to see where they get their trans work done. One shop might be mentioned more than others, plus which ones to stay away from. That means "face-to-face" rather than Internet searches!

    When the trans is disassembled, the cause of the failure should be evident AND how to keep it from happening again. Could be several individual things or a combination of them. Just have to open it up and see. THEN talk price, warranties, and such.

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
  17. jct

    jct Senior Member

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    They do sell stock rebuilds and do the 71 or so valve body
     
  18. kenfyoozed

    kenfyoozed New Member

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    Waiting on a few shops to get back to me while trying to learn more about this car. The brakes have a leak in them as the fluid was almost gone in the reservoir. The brake system wouldn't be tied into the trans would it?
     
  19. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Completely different systems. Check the bottom of the master cylinder for fluid, that is usually the first place they leak. Next, pull all 4 wheels and inspect the wheel cylinders for leakage, carefully inspect all steel lines for rust and all rubber brake lines for cracks/leakage. You are probably headed for a complete brake system overhaul. If the master cylinder has fluid on the bottom of it, that is usually means that fluid is leaking out of the rear of the master into the brake booster if the car has power brakes. Usually this will result in a brake booster failure as well some where down the line. If this car has been sitting for a long period of time, most likely the master cylinder, brake hoses and wheel cylinders have deteriorated and should be replaced.

    Dave