67 Newport hard to RE-start

Scoopy G

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Hello fellas and fell-ettes,

I'm having an issue with my 67 Newport 383 2bbl. It will cold start just perfectly, warm up, come off the choke and run like a dream. No running issues at highway speeds or in town.

BUT, if I'm driving around and stop and shut the car off for a few minutes (or as much as an hour), the car does not want to re-start. It will re-start if I flood start the car, and that's the only way I can get it to start again. This is fairly new problem in the 4 years I've owned the car. Any thoughts from our carb guys (and gals) out there? Thanks.

Newport.jpg
 
Fuel pump check valve bad and it is leaking back?
 
Thought about this some more since your last e mail....
When cold and choke on, the carb is not on the idle circuit..
When warm, choke off, carb should be at idle circuit and enough gas in the bowl to start her up.
When it acts up again, pull air cleaner off, look down at the jets and throttle it to see if they are squirting gas.
No gas? Have a can of brake cleens or gas in a bottle to shoot down the carb.
SHould start at idle.
If so, no fuel in carb's bowl.
Could be either boiling away or draining back.
If you really want to investigate, when it acts up, pull the top off the carb to see if any gas is in there. Check for any dirt in the bowl, seats and needle, and check the float level' height.
As for the fuel filter, cheap replacement as a process of elimination.
Make a carb spacer out of plywood since nobody makes one for a 2bbl carb.
Not worry about the wood getting soaked in gas.
Gas is already atomized at that location on its way into the engine.
Make sure you get longer bolts/ studs to mount the carb and spacer and adjust the kickdown linkage as needed.
Put heat sheathing on the fuel line and make sure the line is not touching the engine,etc
I have it on all 3 C's.
Hope this helps.
You know where to find me !
 
Thanks one and all. I'm going to make a spacer today. After reading some other related threads, I'm thinking the fuel itself might be the issue. Since I've owned the car, I've used non-ethanol fuel, and everything was OK. But here in the last few months I haven't been as strict when buying fuel, and the 10% ethanol stuff is cheaper. So now I'm going to go back to using only non-ethanol.

Thanks again gents,

Rich in Tampa
 
Thanks one and all. I'm going to make a spacer today. After reading some other related threads, I'm thinking the fuel itself might be the issue. Since I've owned the car, I've used non-ethanol fuel, and everything was OK. But here in the last few months I haven't been as strict when buying fuel, and the 10% ethanol stuff is cheaper. So now I'm going to go back to using only non-ethanol.

Thanks again gents,

Rich in Tampa

Fuel is a big issue when engine is hot.

I found this out the hard way when i went to Sweden last year, and filled up on gas with a lot of ethanol (boy was i happy because of the much lower price). When cold, started no problem, but hot was a totally different story, u really had to crank it and depress the pedal to the floor for a few seconds, and it would run rough for a little while.
After filling up on proper gas, the issue was gone. I have a 383 2bbl, no spacer, full metal fuel lines all the way to the carb.
 
Thanks UNIX, I appreciate the input. Cheers from Tampa.
 
I know everyone has pointed at the carb as being the problem, and at first blush, it does sound like a fuel problem... That said, 90% of carb problems are electrical.

So, I would try to duplicate the issue, which I think may be easy enough. I would look down the carb and work the throttle and see if there's gas squirting out the accelerator pump. If not, the problem is probably the carb or fuel system. If it squirts, then I'd say you have fuel and since this just started happening, I would suspect an ignition issue. Another way to check is a quick squirt of starting fluid down the carb to see if it fires. If it does, it fuel, if it doesn't, look for ignition issues.

Does the car have points? Some type of electronic ignition?
 
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