300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
If you were around Delacour when you went to high school 20+ years ago, did you know the Nearys?
1968 Chrysler Newport Faux Touring Project
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300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
That's right. I worked with Des and coincidentally moved in next to him when he moved to Chestermere.
The engine is definitely looking like it's been neglected for close to a decade. This engine bay used to shine, and the engine was a high gloss "Chrysler Red" that you could eat off of it was so clean. A good clean up with a pressure washer is needed to wash the years and dirt away.
As as you can see the raw aluminum intake looks quite old and tired (yeah, I know it all does....) but untreated aluminium looses it's lustre over time. This was one of the driving factors in cleaning up the new raw aluminum bits and clear coating them. When the engine comes out I'll cleanup the intake (possibly sandblast if needed) and clear coat it.
The engine and compartment will definitely look much different over this winter - fabricated aluminum valve covers, aluminum water pump assembly, aluminum radiator........
As as you can see the raw aluminum intake looks quite old and tired (yeah, I know it all does....) but untreated aluminium looses it's lustre over time. This was one of the driving factors in cleaning up the new raw aluminum bits and clear coating them. When the engine comes out I'll cleanup the intake (possibly sandblast if needed) and clear coat it.
The engine and compartment will definitely look much different over this winter - fabricated aluminum valve covers, aluminum water pump assembly, aluminum radiator........
I pulled out a set of 452 heads I started porting 8-9 years ago, though I didn't take any pics of them. What was I thinking...... These were meant for this car when I started them, but as the story goes; life gets in the way of even the best laid plans.
The reasons for going iron back then was aluminum heads were still quite pricy, this car will never be a drag strip screamer, it won't ever be more than 500 horsepower, and the goal was to increase flow and velocity between .200" and .550" to gain power and efficency. Plus I really like porting heads.
I know there are significant benefits to aluminum heads, but for now this is the direction I'll take as it will leave budget for other things as well - and back in the day (and today) some pretty solid numbers come from iron heads.
Here are some of the goals and plans:
1. Increase port flow & velocity .200" - .500"
2. Mill heads .060" +/- to increase compression and effeciency
3. Mill intake face of head .XXX" to allow unmodified intake (I can't recall the calculation for this based on the .060" removal, I'll find it)
4. Keep the factory sized valves, but go to a performance stainless valve. This engine and car combination doesn't have the need for a larger valve. Essentially being only 383" and will never get above 6500 it would actually kill some of the lower end to increase the sizing. The 383" engine is a very small big block, that shares some capabilities with small blocks. We'll see how this plays out.
5. Possibly replace the seats, install bronze valve guides, replaces matching springs and all seals.
6. Have fun.
I'll get some pics up this weekend.
The reasons for going iron back then was aluminum heads were still quite pricy, this car will never be a drag strip screamer, it won't ever be more than 500 horsepower, and the goal was to increase flow and velocity between .200" and .550" to gain power and efficency. Plus I really like porting heads.
I know there are significant benefits to aluminum heads, but for now this is the direction I'll take as it will leave budget for other things as well - and back in the day (and today) some pretty solid numbers come from iron heads.
Here are some of the goals and plans:
1. Increase port flow & velocity .200" - .500"
2. Mill heads .060" +/- to increase compression and effeciency
3. Mill intake face of head .XXX" to allow unmodified intake (I can't recall the calculation for this based on the .060" removal, I'll find it)
4. Keep the factory sized valves, but go to a performance stainless valve. This engine and car combination doesn't have the need for a larger valve. Essentially being only 383" and will never get above 6500 it would actually kill some of the lower end to increase the sizing. The 383" engine is a very small big block, that shares some capabilities with small blocks. We'll see how this plays out.
5. Possibly replace the seats, install bronze valve guides, replaces matching springs and all seals.
6. Have fun.
I'll get some pics up this weekend.
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It's been at a stall on this project for a couple of weeks, back to juggling time with my kids, their activities, weather, and equally as important - finishing the inside of my garage!!!
I had moved into my house a little more than a year ago, and have been doing renovation work consistently since on the inside, outside and even the garage. The garage was actually what sold me on the house - funny how that happens to us gentlemen.
It basically was an insulated finished, heated, and good to go shop that someone stripped back to bare studs at some point. So in the effort of creating a REALLY great shop to work in with all the power a guy would need I've opted to re-wire the whole thing. From past errors in finishing, I've decided to include multiple 20amp circuits, 220 service, and of course many 15amp circuits. The lighting also needs to be enough to make you want to be in there! Finally there is the requirement for a hanging heater, gas is in, but need to figure out what direction to go on heat.
With that said, this has become the biggest concern as of late - our winters can really suck here and being able to work comfortably (though is a bit of a luxury) is really nice to be able to do in our 8-10months of winter!!!!!
I had moved into my house a little more than a year ago, and have been doing renovation work consistently since on the inside, outside and even the garage. The garage was actually what sold me on the house - funny how that happens to us gentlemen.
It basically was an insulated finished, heated, and good to go shop that someone stripped back to bare studs at some point. So in the effort of creating a REALLY great shop to work in with all the power a guy would need I've opted to re-wire the whole thing. From past errors in finishing, I've decided to include multiple 20amp circuits, 220 service, and of course many 15amp circuits. The lighting also needs to be enough to make you want to be in there! Finally there is the requirement for a hanging heater, gas is in, but need to figure out what direction to go on heat.
With that said, this has become the biggest concern as of late - our winters can really suck here and being able to work comfortably (though is a bit of a luxury) is really nice to be able to do in our 8-10months of winter!!!!!
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
Guys need a garage as much as women needs a walk in closet.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
In other woods, stuff fills any space not allocated to anything else.
SeanD
New Member
So tell me about those wheels. Are they 18 or 20? 8" wide?
They are MUCH bigger, and requires a little inner fender trimming to work to allow turning at the extremely low height.
These are 22" X 9.5" wheels front and back; much bigger than the typical C-body driver/enthusiast prefers on these vehicles.
My my brother has some 20" X 9" wheels on his 66 Windsor that needed no cutting or mods whatsoever - they look similar in style to mine, just a little smaller.
These are 22" X 9.5" wheels front and back; much bigger than the typical C-body driver/enthusiast prefers on these vehicles.
My my brother has some 20" X 9" wheels on his 66 Windsor that needed no cutting or mods whatsoever - they look similar in style to mine, just a little smaller.
Hello All! This build hasn't died....... Just taken a little more time to organize than I had anticipated, as I'm sure many of you can relate to. I've decided that May 2017 needs to be my deadline to have this girl back on the road, or it won't happen.
Since the last update a few things have happened - addition of a demon carburetor, addition of an MSD ignition system, addition of MP/Mallory electronic dustributor, and addition of Taylor 10.4mm wires with new plugs.
Hope to get the tune dialled in today, and then take out the engine and disassemble the front end over the next couple of weekends.............
Since the last update a few things have happened - addition of a demon carburetor, addition of an MSD ignition system, addition of MP/Mallory electronic dustributor, and addition of Taylor 10.4mm wires with new plugs.
Hope to get the tune dialled in today, and then take out the engine and disassemble the front end over the next couple of weekends.............
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Excellent, glad to see you're still at it. I can relate to some time off from a project, I think we all can.
Another Calgarian wow getting quite the group here! Almost have enough members to have our own car show.....if we only knew someone who had a large space where we could park a dozen cars or more like maybe a Dodge Dealership .... waittaminute I think I know someone
Nice build came late to the party but looking forward to seeing more of your project!
Nice build came late to the party but looking forward to seeing more of your project!
computerhater
New Member
wow, big dreams. I hope to see everything come together some day.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Keep at it.
Today was a very productive day on the Newport, which I'm thankful for after yesterday!!!
Friday evening I thought I would get some more tuning done on her as the accelerator pump circuit isn't quite there yet. I've installed a 50cc bowl, jumped to a 40 squirter with a hollow screw and a blue pump cam. The blue cam and the 31 squirter made a big difference but wasn't right. I made the mistake of jumping all the way to a 40 squirter, as this was now too much. When I went to swap in a 35, I ended up stripping the threads on the main body for the squirter. I guess I need to take the carb back apart now and order a repair kit.
The good news for today - the fuel cell is in and the plumbing is done. All that is required is the completion of the wiring........ pics to follow
As you'll see there is more work to be done to the underside of the car, I only opted to prep and spray where I was going to be working. I'll finish the rest in sections as I remove/replace/modify/restore components
Friday evening I thought I would get some more tuning done on her as the accelerator pump circuit isn't quite there yet. I've installed a 50cc bowl, jumped to a 40 squirter with a hollow screw and a blue pump cam. The blue cam and the 31 squirter made a big difference but wasn't right. I made the mistake of jumping all the way to a 40 squirter, as this was now too much. When I went to swap in a 35, I ended up stripping the threads on the main body for the squirter. I guess I need to take the carb back apart now and order a repair kit.
The good news for today - the fuel cell is in and the plumbing is done. All that is required is the completion of the wiring........ pics to follow
As you'll see there is more work to be done to the underside of the car, I only opted to prep and spray where I was going to be working. I'll finish the rest in sections as I remove/replace/modify/restore components
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