1969 - 1971 C body Stub Frame (subframe)

Confused now on 69 Fury, same stub frame on all Plymouth or different for convertible?

If they are different, it looks like a sedan/ht frame could be cut down to fit my convertible?
 
sevnt300 summerized the cross matches, pretty good at the end of the first post:

All 1969 C Bodies, with the exception of Fury hardtops and coupes are interchangeable.


1969 - 1970 C body Convertibles or Wagons can use the stub frame from any 1969 Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth convertibles and wagons. 1970 - 1971 Chrysler and Dodge and 1971 Plymouth's will not bolt rigidly to the frame and will not work on all 1969 models or 1970 convertibles and wagons or Plymouth hardtops and sedans.


1969 - 1970 Fury hardtop and sedans are interchangeable (6 cyl and V-8 applications differ)
 
yup escaped the problem by buying the whole dam donor car.
this from this

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2016-04-02 14.59.42.jpg
 
All '69 and '70 V-8 Fury's used the same stub frame, Plymouth's changed to Torsion Quiet in 1971
 
I know it's been a while since this thread was used, but I am trying to find parts to finish putting my sub frame and body back together, specially the bolt/isolation set up hardware.
Help?
 
There are no new ones. Literally every person with this scenario uses solid mounts made out of stacked fender washers.
The seriously committed will machine new ones out of Delron.
 
Hockey pucks are good. Used them in my VW Golf to replace stock rubber motor mounts :)
 
FWIW, Hockey pucks check at 90-91 Durometer on the Shore "A" scale. We used to check hockey pucks for a customer that tested goalie masks by firing pucks out of an air cannon.

I did some research into body mount hardness once. I didn't look real hard, but I found out this much. An Energy Suspension polyurethane mount is 70-A and a stock GM mount is about 45-A. I've never checked or found out how hard a Mopar body mount is.

So.... a hockey puck will work... but it's going to be a lot harder than a stock mount. That may be good for handling and bad for ride. I would think that you'd also want to replace all the bushings with similar Durometer materials.
 
Big John, that's good info for the isolators on a torsion quiet stub frame. I've read that others have used hockey pucks with good results. Can Critters rebuilder Paul was supposed to come up with a solution, but I don't think he reported his findings yet.

I'm confused, however, since Gold69Con is rebuilding a 69 vert, which won't use the isolators since it does not have the torsion quiet stub. Unless of course it was replaced sometime in its life with the stub from a '70 or '71 hard top.
 
belive were going cnc and metal
Big John, that's good info for the isolators on a torsion quiet stub frame. I've read that others have used hockey pucks with good results. Can Critters rebuilder Paul was supposed to come up with a solution, but I don't think he reported his findings yet.

I'm confused, however, since Gold69Con is rebuilding a 69 vert, which won't use the isolators since it does not have the torsion quiet stub. Unless of course it was replaced sometime in its life with the stub from a '70 or '71 hard top.

we were talking about this the other day...most of the bushings are good and will be reused..the ones that aren't will be done outa metal by cnc and l understand their the front ones...Pauls saying metal will work fine he thinks
he also knows where a low milage 72 Chrysler is and may steal bushings offa it as they should be good
k...need to get schooled on couple things...following this thread trying to sort out bushings ect...am assumeing the 71 GT will be the torsion quiet setup...if so finding the rubber bushings on the 72 may be the way to go...were comeing up to that point quickly so will have something sorted out...will post what we do
 
I don't think mixing solid and rubber body mounts is a good idea. I could see the stub frame or the body flexing in the wrong places.
 
I don't think mixing solid and rubber body mounts is a good idea. I could see the stub frame or the body flexing in the wrong places.
ya been thinking about that...been huntin last Cpl hrs to see what l can find in the way of oem bushings...not alota luck...may be looking hard at the 72s bushins
 
I just talked to my sister who worked 40 years in the plastic industry.

Soft Neoprene Rod. 55 Duometer. Used by Harley - Davidson for vibration and resonance control monts.
 
View attachment 76316 Isn't this exactly what you are looking for? Of course in the right diameter.
ya was looking at that or similar...they come in different diameters as well as hardness...commandos post had some good info and leads to follow up on...
my biggest problem is trying to visually place all these bushings and have a idea what lm dealing with when cars in Idaho ...am a hands on type so am kinda assuming on alota stuff and hopeing lm right
saving grace is lm at work again and have free evenins to do nada but hunt parts and research
upload_2016-4-16_9-58-11.jpeg
 
I also have a small CNC machine and might be able to contribute on this CanCritter, if your guy backs out. Been wanting to make something to support our hobby (and make a little $$ too), so maybe this would be a good prospect.

I looked at McMaster at poly tubes similar to shown above and they are thin-walled, so won't have enough OD, not like a hockey puck. They have solid rods and in 2.5"-3"-4" dia but are ~$10 per inch, and I'm guessing there are 12 bushings/subframe (as top/bottom pairs?)? Ones up at the radiator support are probably smaller though?

Mcmaster isn't the cheapest source, but is easy to buy from, so might be the place to use for prototypes.
Could make some prototypes out of wood scraps to check fitment initially, too.

A concern might be that if these are donut-shaped, rather than completely flat, they will take more time to cut, and if there is any metal erosion in the subframe pockets there won't be any way to account for that.

It's been many years since I've seen these bushings, so going from assumptions on how they'd be designed.
 
Start printing one out now Stan, then give us a call in 24+ hours after the print is done!:p

I think this item needs subtractive mfg instead.
 
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