1969 Chrysler Time Delay Ignition Switch Light

MJFUR

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1969 Chrysler 300 is lacking the Ignition Switch Light, has been since I bought it.

What am I missing? What do I need? Where is this located in the Parts/Electrical Manuals?

Thx

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Your bulb is inside that small silver tube with the hole in it held in place by that screw in your second picture , it could be burnt out or the time delay relay is bad here is a great thread on the topic 1970 Fury Time Delay Relay
 
Interesting. My 70 Fury ignition switch light is in the flood light panel above the instrument cluster.

THANKS!
 
Interesting. My 70 Fury ignition switch light is in the flood light panel above the instrument cluster.

THANKS!
In the 69 Fury the ignition is on the lower left side of the dash . There is a light just above the ignition and another above the light and wiper switches , both are controlled by the delay relay . These are separate from the dimmable dash lights. The 69 Chrysler 300 would be the same left hand ignition. The 70 Fury and Chryslers had the steering column ignition.
 
Thx for the help. Now more questions.

The wire connector doesn't have the typical release latch/clip. I've tried pulling it apart, but it's getting to the point I don't want to break it. What's the trick to seperate?

If the bulb is bad, is the metal canister/bulb and singe yellow wire the replacement assembly/part that I need? Is the bulb supposed to come out of the canister separately?

Thx

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The end cap with the wire pulls out of the round pipe with the hole . It’s tight , it will come apart. But first check the bulb to see if it’s the problem, un clip the grey / black wire connector and put 12volt positive to the wire and ground to the metal case . If it lights up your bulb is good and you don’t have to take it apart. Your delay relay is probably toast
 
You can use a couple pairs of pliers to open it. One on the round tube and one on the end cap , get a good grip and twist it to get it started. Once it’s moving it will come apart. The tube half slides over the end cap . I’m sure I have 2 or 3 of those if you break yours.
 
The end cap with the wire pulls out of the round pipe with the hole . It’s tight , it will come apart. But first check the bulb to see if it’s the problem, un clip the grey / black wire connector and put 12volt positive to the wire and ground to the metal case . If it lights up your bulb is good and you don’t have to take it apart. Your delay relay is probably toast


"The wire connector doesn't have the typical release latch/clip. I've tried pulling it apart, but it's getting to the point I don't want to break it. What's the trick to separate?"
 
In the 69 Fury the ignition is on the lower left side of the dash . There is a light just above the ignition and another above the light and wiper switches , both are controlled by the delay relay . These are separate from the dimmable dash lights. The 69 Chrysler 300 would be the same left hand ignition. The 70 Fury and Chryslers had the steering column ignition.
Thanks. I didn't remember there were 2 different lights. It's been 15 years since I owned a 69 c-body. Memory getting a little foggy.
 
Just lightly grip the socket end with pliers and twist the tube back and forth by hand , it should move. If it doesn’t move lightly use pliers to grip the tube. You don’t need much force to separate it , it’s made to be tight.
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Need a wiring Guru please. Can someone help me understand what I have going on?

The plug for the Ignition Light Relay has had some wires cut. If I understand correctly, the cut wires go to the door jam courtesy light plungers.
I have 12v at the pink wire with battery ON.
I have continuity between the uncut Yellow wires and the Ignition Light Socket.

I'm presuming the cut wires in the wire bundle actually go to this plug. The wire lengths do not line up as if a section of wire has been removed.
Wire A out of the bundle has continuity to chassis ground (I used the base plate of the high beam switch on the floor.)
Wire A has continuity to Passenger side door jam switch with door open, plunger out.
Wire A has an open to Passenger side door jam switch with door open, plunger pushed in.
Wire A has continuity to Driver side door jam switch with plunger either in or out.

Wire B has an open to everything. I do not know where other end of this wire goes.

Driver side door plunger wiring has been modified and or cut. Perhaps driver side door jam wire has been cut in more than one place leaving Wire B in the bundle an open wire.

In theory, should I be able to run a wire from the Driver side door jam wiring to the Wire B in the plug?

Thx for the help.

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When you open the door and the Ignition Light/Fasten Seat Belts light comes ON, should it time out (20 sec) and go OFF by just closing the door or does the car need to be started for it to time out?

With only Passenger door switch connected to circuit, Dome light, Ign. light, Fasten Seat Belt light all OFF when all doors closed. When you open the passenger side door, all previously mentioned lights come ON. (So far so good.)
When you close the Passenger door, Dome lights go OFF as they should, but Ign. light and Fasten Seat Belt light stay ON, car not started. Waited a minute or so, they never time out. (Can't start car currently, waiting on a radiator hose.)

With Drivers door switch in the circuit, Dome light, Ign. light, Fasten Seat Belt light all ON even with all doors closed. Wire from Driver side door switch ohms out correctly and shows 12v correctly dependent on whether switch is pushed in or out.

Relay gets pretty warm after waiting the minute, so I concluded the tests.

Wiring Guru please help or call. Thx
 
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Sounds like your timing relay is stuck in the on position, replace the relay and test again with your passenger door first .
 
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