LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I'm bummed out for you not getting your road trip too, and for not getting to meet you and see the car as it was fairly close to me. Such is life. Enjoy the car from across the sea!
For Sale 1969 Imp Very nice in Auction MN
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I'm bummed out for you not getting your road trip too, and for not getting to meet you and see the car as it was fairly close to me. Such is life. Enjoy the car from across the sea!
Chryslerdude
Well-Known Member
Thanks Scott.. Yeah, that was a black day in hell, when I realized that the insurance was such a problem.. However, my friend and I, still exchange links to cheap air fare tickets almost every day, so who knows.. and I sent him Hemmings car-event-calendar yesterday.. and I hope we can fine some event of mutual interest.. I'd love to attend Mopar nationals, but I doubt that I can convince him, as he's a GM guy, ha ha
If there's an arrangement made btw us C-PPL's, I'd love to join !! I have not been in the US since 1993, and then, I didn't even attend any car event then.. that's bad bad bad !
fc7_plumcrazy
Old Man with a Hat
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Hi Julian,
the numbers are not all correct anymore.
Netherlands is 6% tax and no customs
Germany is 7% import tax and no customs since a couple of years.
So it is very close to the dutch version.
But AC cars will need to be checked in germany and the old AC content removed. They charge around EUR 100,-- for it.
I ship my cars usually to Rotterdam as it is closer to me than Bremerhaven and they don't jerk around with it (AC).
Carsten
Thanks Carsten, that I don't know. They were in 2013 when I shipped my car. Good to know they changed that! But this AC stuff is ridiculous, indeed..!
OK, I thought you meant the import tax papers, but never mind...ccasion14:
Ha ha, true about the herpes..! A little "unwanted bonus"..
I will come to your Mopar Nationals 2016 for sure.. I know some of my DK Mopar-friends went this summer, and I was sad not to be able to go / come.. coz of to much work, but next summer will be different !
2016 will be the year, when I will print out a HUGE "car event calendar", and plan ahead (unlike this summer, where all was work, work and chaos).. and I will try my very best, to attend the Mopar events in DK, SWE.
If you have the time, you should consider "US Camp".. that was a the best new event (new to me), that I went to this summer..
I'm going again this year!
I'm looking forward to see you and your gorgeous Imperial next year!
About other meets. Unfortunately, I won't go to many of them until my Imperial is done.
fc7_plumcrazy
Old Man with a Hat
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Hi Kasper,
I am looking forward to meet you.
If everything is "as usual" the german Mopar Nats will be held August 6th
It is probably the same weekend as "Roskilde" if I am not wrong
Carsten
I am looking forward to meet you.
If everything is "as usual" the german Mopar Nats will be held August 6th
It is probably the same weekend as "Roskilde" if I am not wrong
Carsten
Chryslerdude
Well-Known Member
Oh no.. I checked and checked the dates.. and every time, it IS unfortunately the exact same date as Roskilde's (Twentieth Anniversary meet).
I am now horribly "torn between events".. I really want to meet you "Mopar neighbors", and check out some of your beautiful cars :-(
Oh, the car pain sets in again.. :-/
Chryslerdude
Well-Known Member
For those it might interest, the Imp has arrived yesterday, (and has had me ditching my customers for two days now)..
"No.. no time, go away.. I have a new shiny object"
The 2 hour trip across Denmark was painless, sunshine, and the mood was the best possible, until about 300 meters from the shipper lot, where I decided to make a half mile short cut, crossing a SEEMINGLY dry field, which turned out to be a friggin SWAMP !
Arrived at the shippers with "squishy shoes", and spotted the Imp right away.. the 40 ft impression was really good, and both me and my Mopar thought that it very much like a vert, with the padded Imp-vinyl top.
As we came closer, came also some disappointments.. The imp was both scratched, and dented on the driver door, and passenger front fender, from poorly built wood scaffolding inside the container, plus the PS side front tire had been torn ½ way off the rim. A-Pillar molding had been crushed, probably by some moron, trying to push the 2,2 ton car. Also, several smaller fresh scratches around the car. The damages from the shipping is not overwhelmingly bad, but still annoying, and ruined what was otherwise a great day. Also, it is unacceptable as we agreed on a "first class transportation", and I even asked if they used their own (proff) staff, for packing the containers, which he confirmed. (plain old lies). Happy that I paid for a full insurance.
The third car, a (75?) red Corvette, jumped of the ramp one side, rubbing the front fender on the container side wall, and then.. suddenly, both ramps lost their grip on the scaffolding, and fell to the bottom of the container with an eerie sound. The Corvette received a "rear end uppercut" by the pallet of heavy duty shipping crates deepest in the back.. nearly tearing the rear end completely of. That poor corvette got a horrible first impression of Denmark... it was a bad day in the shipping insurance business.
The staff was busy apologizing to the Corvette-owners, and as I had nothing nice to add and just wanted to LEAVE ASAP, my friend and I solved tire issues ourselves, with he tools we found in the Imp, and a portable compressor.
The Imp was checked and topped for oil and water, and we paid for the transport, and rolled quietly out from the shippers lot.. only to reveal, that the car had had nearly NO brakes.. great ! Also, it had to crank through at least all 8 cylinders, before starting (weak fuel pump) ?
But it did start, and sounded fine, apart from running a little rough, so after lurking around the industrial area, getting used to the lousy brakes, we rolled onto the highway, heading home. 55 mph, and keeping good distance..
On the way home, the following was revealed..
Working:
Sound deadening works FINE in the Imperial. Wow man.. noticeable less noise than in any other Chrysler Corp car I have had..
Radio somewhat working, (picking up ONE FM station), and played through only ONE dash speaker.. speaker membrane sounded intact.. amazing :-D
Power antenna went SOME of the way up.. and in SOME positions, would agree to go SOME of the way down again :-D
2 of 4 dash flood lights worked..
Power bench worked some ways, but wired wrong (or "SOFA", as I think describes it better, in the Imp)
Heat worked, but only at the levels "off", or "Tropical"
Cruise control worked, but cancel only worked by activating the brake pedal
PW switch area flood lighting and ignition light working incl delay
Sequential lights DS
Trunk light
Door light (No center roof dome in the Imp..?!?)
Head lights incl doors
Cornering lights (SHARK LIGHTS )
NOT Working, or working "bad"
Suspected heater core leak, as dash and windshield was greasy, and car got foggy with windows rolled up
Intermittent jerky / uneven propulsion, and idle was bad too (I suspect again the fuel pump)
Sequential lights driver side
Driver side tail light FULL of water.. we are talking "aquarium style full".. made an amazing size puddle!
Map light
Of course, the A/C
Brakes (incl parking brake)
Front turn signals both sides
Announced Power locks = Lie
8-Track
After a controlled gear-box assisted braking at a bridge payment stall (3-to-2nd only), the box seemed to stay stuck in 2'nd for a mile or two.. (low on fluid?).
We checked that ample amounts of fluid was present, but not exactly following the correct level check procedure, as it seemed to work fine.
All the above was noted yesterday, but now, it gets a little worse..
When I started the car this morning, it started without "aid", after cranking about 10 seconds... But after another 10 seconds of idle, an annoying "valve-lifter-like-clicking-sound" came on, to accompany the otherwise very quiet and smooth 440 sound.
Refusing the accept it's a bad valve lifter, I first loosened the generator, and stripped stuck the two "A/C & Generator belts" to exclude these exterior units, but the clicking did not originate from the generator or compressor. It was to cold and windy to do anything else, so for now I REALLY hope the sound is from the fuel pump. I seem to experience now the clicking has arrived, that "unassisted starting" is getting harder too, and now has much less chance ot starting without a "snaps" (as we Danes call the classic shot glass of gas poured in the carb). Anyways, I am not going cruising before I have the brakes fixed, and isolated that hell'ish clicking.
Trying to bleed the front brakes was completely futile.. rear chamber was empty at first inspection, and what I poured in there, never left the reservoir. The fluid was, or quickly became murky in both front and back reservoirs FAST.. and activating pedal produces a little geyser, but no fluid appears at the caliper. I suspect the master to be shot. Tomorrow, I hope to have time to see if a "vacuum bleeder" can suck out some rusty brake fluid, and achieve pressure to the front discs.
Of course this brake fix attempt is temporary. I am currently considering reworking, or new front calipers, new rear cylinders, master cylinder, power assist unit (functional now, but ugly as hell, and could break anytime). I can't find the discs new at Rock's, so I probably have to go to the rework place anyways.
A related question, or rather request for advice: I'm considering Raybestos hoses at 17,95$ over Dorman's priced at only 6,63$.. and also premium brake pads.. Any recommendations in this regard..? Is there any obvious advantages in buying the expensive parts, or a waste of money?
Cheers C-PPL's ;-)K
"No.. no time, go away.. I have a new shiny object"
The 2 hour trip across Denmark was painless, sunshine, and the mood was the best possible, until about 300 meters from the shipper lot, where I decided to make a half mile short cut, crossing a SEEMINGLY dry field, which turned out to be a friggin SWAMP !
Arrived at the shippers with "squishy shoes", and spotted the Imp right away.. the 40 ft impression was really good, and both me and my Mopar thought that it very much like a vert, with the padded Imp-vinyl top.
As we came closer, came also some disappointments.. The imp was both scratched, and dented on the driver door, and passenger front fender, from poorly built wood scaffolding inside the container, plus the PS side front tire had been torn ½ way off the rim. A-Pillar molding had been crushed, probably by some moron, trying to push the 2,2 ton car. Also, several smaller fresh scratches around the car. The damages from the shipping is not overwhelmingly bad, but still annoying, and ruined what was otherwise a great day. Also, it is unacceptable as we agreed on a "first class transportation", and I even asked if they used their own (proff) staff, for packing the containers, which he confirmed. (plain old lies). Happy that I paid for a full insurance.
The third car, a (75?) red Corvette, jumped of the ramp one side, rubbing the front fender on the container side wall, and then.. suddenly, both ramps lost their grip on the scaffolding, and fell to the bottom of the container with an eerie sound. The Corvette received a "rear end uppercut" by the pallet of heavy duty shipping crates deepest in the back.. nearly tearing the rear end completely of. That poor corvette got a horrible first impression of Denmark... it was a bad day in the shipping insurance business.
The staff was busy apologizing to the Corvette-owners, and as I had nothing nice to add and just wanted to LEAVE ASAP, my friend and I solved tire issues ourselves, with he tools we found in the Imp, and a portable compressor.
The Imp was checked and topped for oil and water, and we paid for the transport, and rolled quietly out from the shippers lot.. only to reveal, that the car had had nearly NO brakes.. great ! Also, it had to crank through at least all 8 cylinders, before starting (weak fuel pump) ?
But it did start, and sounded fine, apart from running a little rough, so after lurking around the industrial area, getting used to the lousy brakes, we rolled onto the highway, heading home. 55 mph, and keeping good distance..
On the way home, the following was revealed..
Working:
Sound deadening works FINE in the Imperial. Wow man.. noticeable less noise than in any other Chrysler Corp car I have had..
Radio somewhat working, (picking up ONE FM station), and played through only ONE dash speaker.. speaker membrane sounded intact.. amazing :-D
Power antenna went SOME of the way up.. and in SOME positions, would agree to go SOME of the way down again :-D
2 of 4 dash flood lights worked..
Power bench worked some ways, but wired wrong (or "SOFA", as I think describes it better, in the Imp)
Heat worked, but only at the levels "off", or "Tropical"
Cruise control worked, but cancel only worked by activating the brake pedal
PW switch area flood lighting and ignition light working incl delay
Sequential lights DS
Trunk light
Door light (No center roof dome in the Imp..?!?)
Head lights incl doors
Cornering lights (SHARK LIGHTS
)NOT Working, or working "bad"
Suspected heater core leak, as dash and windshield was greasy, and car got foggy with windows rolled up
Intermittent jerky / uneven propulsion, and idle was bad too (I suspect again the fuel pump)
Sequential lights driver side
Driver side tail light FULL of water.. we are talking "aquarium style full".. made an amazing size puddle!
Map light
Of course, the A/C
Brakes (incl parking brake)
Front turn signals both sides
Announced Power locks = Lie
8-Track
After a controlled gear-box assisted braking at a bridge payment stall (3-to-2nd only), the box seemed to stay stuck in 2'nd for a mile or two.. (low on fluid?).
We checked that ample amounts of fluid was present, but not exactly following the correct level check procedure, as it seemed to work fine.
All the above was noted yesterday, but now, it gets a little worse..
When I started the car this morning, it started without "aid", after cranking about 10 seconds... But after another 10 seconds of idle, an annoying "valve-lifter-like-clicking-sound" came on, to accompany the otherwise very quiet and smooth 440 sound.
Refusing the accept it's a bad valve lifter, I first loosened the generator, and stripped stuck the two "A/C & Generator belts" to exclude these exterior units, but the clicking did not originate from the generator or compressor. It was to cold and windy to do anything else, so for now I REALLY hope the sound is from the fuel pump. I seem to experience now the clicking has arrived, that "unassisted starting" is getting harder too, and now has much less chance ot starting without a "snaps" (as we Danes call the classic shot glass of gas poured in the carb). Anyways, I am not going cruising before I have the brakes fixed, and isolated that hell'ish clicking.
Trying to bleed the front brakes was completely futile.. rear chamber was empty at first inspection, and what I poured in there, never left the reservoir. The fluid was, or quickly became murky in both front and back reservoirs FAST.. and activating pedal produces a little geyser, but no fluid appears at the caliper. I suspect the master to be shot. Tomorrow, I hope to have time to see if a "vacuum bleeder" can suck out some rusty brake fluid, and achieve pressure to the front discs.
Of course this brake fix attempt is temporary. I am currently considering reworking, or new front calipers, new rear cylinders, master cylinder, power assist unit (functional now, but ugly as hell, and could break anytime). I can't find the discs new at Rock's, so I probably have to go to the rework place anyways.
A related question, or rather request for advice: I'm considering Raybestos hoses at 17,95$ over Dorman's priced at only 6,63$.. and also premium brake pads.. Any recommendations in this regard..? Is there any obvious advantages in buying the expensive parts, or a waste of money?
Cheers C-PPL's ;-)K
fc7_plumcrazy
Old Man with a Hat
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Hi Kaspar,
sorry to hear your shipping company messed it up and damaged the car.
It is too late but Rotterdam would probably been the better solution as they deload most classic cars for europe.
I doubt the noise will be from the fuel pump.
Good luck !
Carsten
sorry to hear your shipping company messed it up and damaged the car.
It is too late but Rotterdam would probably been the better solution as they deload most classic cars for europe.
I doubt the noise will be from the fuel pump.
Good luck !
Carsten
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
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I agree and I hope it's not serious, thermostat maybe?
for lack of wanting to re read this entire thread, do you know much about the recent history? Has it been driven a lot in the last 10 years?
I'm shocked at the condition of your car from the shipping handler's! I have shipped many, many cars to Bremerhaven and back to the States over 2 decades through the U.S. Army and never had any damage to a single car. The dock workers couldn't speak English....and couldn't speak German either. I had no idea what country they where from either.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
let's face it.
Stuffing a 7'11" wide car into an 8 ft. wide container means it is not coming out unscathed from an ocean voyage.
Stuffing a 7'11" wide car into an 8 ft. wide container means it is not coming out unscathed from an ocean voyage.
First things first. Congratulation to have your baby home. Especially on its own power!
I'm sorry to hear about the damages on your car. Scratches on my car would've not been that critical but the shipping company did a good job in not damaging my Imp. Only the damn dutch truck driver screwed up and damaged 3 parts on the car...
Most of the not working parts on your car should be fixed quite easy. Let me know if I can help you in any way!
If you need visual aids, here is the Link to my enormous picture gallery of the disassembly and restoration of my Imperial.
Dropbox (no account needed to view, just close the LogIn window)
I'm sorry to hear about the damages on your car. Scratches on my car would've not been that critical but the shipping company did a good job in not damaging my Imp. Only the damn dutch truck driver screwed up and damaged 3 parts on the car...
Most of the not working parts on your car should be fixed quite easy. Let me know if I can help you in any way!
If you need visual aids, here is the Link to my enormous picture gallery of the disassembly and restoration of my Imperial.
Dropbox (no account needed to view, just close the LogIn window)
Chryslerdude
Well-Known Member
Hey Matt - Valve problem already solved.. I'll explain how in a separate message, as I already wrote it in a message this afternoon, but has been offline for a couple of hours, as my computer had "DNS issues".. As stated in the auction text, the Imp had been stationary for MANY years, until the son of the owner sold it. The front discs are corroded beyond what I have seen.. The condition of the car in various areas, is very different.. almost to a point, where one could get the idea, that it was assembled from parts.. not worn, just corrodes and withered. Also, the car shows signs of carelessness. Cigarette burns in the roof liner, and windows in doors has vertical scratches from being operated with dirty felt's. Crap! Other areas look fantastic, like all the little straps n details in the engine compartment. Hood to cowl, and hood to radiator support are immaculate, and also the underside and cavities in the hood are perfect, while the vacuum assist unit looks like it has been stored onboard the Titanic..
I think (guess from the looks) that it has been stored for at least the last 10 years, indoor, in a semi dry garage under a car cover, leaving some parts are near perfect, while other parts look like they have had condensed humidity gathering at the bottom areas. The "under carriage" was SURPRISINGLY good looking. I thought it would be rough, coming from MN, but no.. Looking forward to get my lift set up, so I can post some pic's.
Yeah.. it's sad.. especially IF the paint on the Imp is original. I'm gong to pursue claiming every penny possible the insurance, and add whatever needed, to get it back in shape. Not to far from me, there's a paint shop only doing Ferrari's, Bentleys and x-tra spencive Merc's.. so, I'll go there and get my quote.
It's not easy, but stacking full size cars on top of each other, to save peanuts is actually really stupid. I had two out of three previous C's coming out of 40 foot'ers unharmed.. so it CAN be done.. ;-)
Thanks Vodka..
I am really happy that I got to drive the Imp home from Jutland, despite the obstacles.. as it gave us a few hours to "bond". I needed that today, when I set out to solve the clicking.
I had my friend, and Mopar expert, (and part time oracle) Thomas with me, and he LOVED the Imp.. He generated one positive somment after the other, and it was a true joy to hear. After about 100 KM, he announced that he had come to the conclusion, that he liked the Imperial better than his very VERY fine 1971 Challenger. I was very honored to hear this.. (and I think the Blue wonder was too
Thanks for the link.. I've already been there looking for the sequential relays, as my driver side is completely dead. The relays I see in my trunk, are the same as yours, apart from a "red wax sealed box".
I was expecting some "moving parts", and there's none.. Must say, that I am a bit disappointed (although the intend is good, I loved Xaviers relays, (the motor driven mechanical ones I saw here in Xaviers video), and they also seemed easier to service.
I didn't have a lot of time today.. Customers every 20 min, kid's calling me, food ready, suddenly dark and ice cold wind outside. I drained the water from the driver side tail light, and vacuumed the remaining water from the sockets, and WD40'er them for good messure. I polished up the dull reflectors, and the bulbs too, as they were corroded, and swapped one dead.
Here's a little shot of the blue wonder, with polished reflectors. The visual reward was ample.. I already LOVE this car!!!
However, my efforts had no impact on the turn signalling.. Driver s dide dead, passenger side works fine.
(No sound heard from relays at all to indicate which one is working, and whatever box I unplug, pass side stops blinking.. making it hard to eliminate which of the relays I should open and check. All fuses are intact. I hope to get some more time to spend on the car soon, and will try to get some heat set up in my garage. Friggin ice everywhere in the morning now.. :-/
Also, the brakes are even worse now, so tomorrow will be the last trip in 2015, to my garage / storage. Also the last day of temporary insurance.
:-D
Chryslerdude
Well-Known Member
The clicking valve / lifter was fixed the easy way.
I remembered that I bought a Mazda 626 once, and it had a valve clicking worse than this.. and I poured some petroleum (about half a pint) into the engine oil, and let it idle for 10 min, and then changed the oil + filter, started - revved it a bit, and voila.. clicking was gone.. (BUT, it came sneaking back after about a month or two).
This morning, I set out to solve the clicking. I was not going to pour petroleum in a 440, so I simply started the engine, and let it warm up, (abt 10 min), while adjusting the idle speed a bit, as it was running at to low rpm.
After the 10 min, I took a deep breath, and revved to about 1000-1200 for 10 sec, then to 15-1700 for 10 sec.. and when I took my foot of the gas pedal, I noticed the clicking was much lower. I revved it a couple of times more, maybe peaking at 2000 rpm, and the clicking was GONE, and haven't heard it since :yaayy:
I think that I'm gonna do this again before winter storage, and then change the oil and filter at the same time.
I was DANCING around at around noon, and I am still super happy to be so lucky, and that it was so easy!
Also did a little dance, when I saw my trunk floor..
I remembered that I bought a Mazda 626 once, and it had a valve clicking worse than this.. and I poured some petroleum (about half a pint) into the engine oil, and let it idle for 10 min, and then changed the oil + filter, started - revved it a bit, and voila.. clicking was gone.. (BUT, it came sneaking back after about a month or two).
This morning, I set out to solve the clicking. I was not going to pour petroleum in a 440, so I simply started the engine, and let it warm up, (abt 10 min), while adjusting the idle speed a bit, as it was running at to low rpm.
After the 10 min, I took a deep breath, and revved to about 1000-1200 for 10 sec, then to 15-1700 for 10 sec.. and when I took my foot of the gas pedal, I noticed the clicking was much lower. I revved it a couple of times more, maybe peaking at 2000 rpm, and the clicking was GONE, and haven't heard it since :yaayy:
I think that I'm gonna do this again before winter storage, and then change the oil and filter at the same time.
I was DANCING around at around noon, and I am still super happy to be so lucky, and that it was so easy!
Also did a little dance, when I saw my trunk floor..
Last edited:
Chryslerdude
Well-Known Member
Here's a few green answers to earlier posts. My PC had "network protocol issues", so I was unable to post earlier...
Thanks Carsten
I'm afraid that your'e right regarding the pump. I thought about it after writing yesterday, that the interval between clicks indicates a valve / lifter.
The pump would be "clicking" much faster..! (being activated once per every revolution of the crank shaft)
Any suggestions?
PS: Thanks for the Rotterdam tip, but I am pretty sure, that problems in this particular container started when packing, rather than during the unloading.. or, maybe the container experienced a jolt somewhere on the way, that shifted the imp to the side, (but then again, it had contact marks on both sides, so... who knows). But sad to see the paint damaged. BTW, if this paint is original as seller claims, it's one of the best looking "Chrysler paint job" I've ever seen.
Hey Matt.. Thanks..!
Not sure about what type of brakes I got, but will get some pic's, when I get the car moved to my garage... I knew that I would be fixing the brakes, so I'm 100% OK with that part, but the engine clicking.. I did not anticipate, and I am a bit down today. I really hope that it's just a hydraulic lifter that's "stuck" or something, and that it will come loose again if I change the oil and filter, and go for a long ride.
Have a good day guys!
Thanks Carsten
I'm afraid that your'e right regarding the pump. I thought about it after writing yesterday, that the interval between clicks indicates a valve / lifter.
The pump would be "clicking" much faster..! (being activated once per every revolution of the crank shaft)
Any suggestions?
PS: Thanks for the Rotterdam tip, but I am pretty sure, that problems in this particular container started when packing, rather than during the unloading.. or, maybe the container experienced a jolt somewhere on the way, that shifted the imp to the side, (but then again, it had contact marks on both sides, so... who knows). But sad to see the paint damaged. BTW, if this paint is original as seller claims, it's one of the best looking "Chrysler paint job" I've ever seen.
Hey Matt.. Thanks..!
Not sure about what type of brakes I got, but will get some pic's, when I get the car moved to my garage... I knew that I would be fixing the brakes, so I'm 100% OK with that part, but the engine clicking.. I did not anticipate, and I am a bit down today. I really hope that it's just a hydraulic lifter that's "stuck" or something, and that it will come loose again if I change the oil and filter, and go for a long ride.
Have a good day guys!
Xavi3r
Active Member
Ahhhh I was right ! I knew there was 2 montage !
At first they put the red sealed box and when they realised that it was prone failyre they changed to the mecanical one.
It is cool that you have the electronical one and i am surprised the it is working, on 1 side but working.
I do not want to be a black cat but If the bulbs are not dead and if every bulb is lighting, the problem comes from the red box. When i put one i got here appart, a lot of composants were dead, cracked...
I wanted to replicate these with modern component but I do not have time. I took appart one already. If you need pics.
and nice car !
Sorry for the damages in the ship but it is not rare in fact... they do not care of what they do.
Xavi3r
Active Member
On the way home, the following was revealed..
Working:
Sound deadening works FINE in the Imperial. Wow man.. noticeable less noise than in any other Chrysler Corp car I have had..
Radio somewhat working, (picking up ONE FM station), and played through only ONE dash speaker.. speaker membrane sounded intact.. amazing :-D
Power antenna went SOME of the way up.. and in SOME positions, would agree to go SOME of the way down again :-D
2 of 4 dash flood lights worked..
Power bench worked some ways, but wired wrong (or "SOFA", as I think describes it better, in the Imp)
Heat worked, but only at the levels "off", or "Tropical"
Cruise control worked, but cancel only worked by activating the brake pedal
PW switch area flood lighting and ignition light working incl delay
Sequential lights DS
Trunk light
Door light (No center roof dome in the Imp..?!?)
Head lights incl doors
Cornering lights (SHARK LIGHTS
NOT Working, or working "bad"
Suspected heater core leak, as dash and windshield was greasy, and car got foggy with windows rolled up
Intermittent jerky / uneven propulsion, and idle was bad too (I suspect again the fuel pump)
Sequential lights driver side
Driver side tail light FULL of water.. we are talking "aquarium style full".. made an amazing size puddle!
Map light
Of course, the A/C
Brakes (incl parking brake)
Front turn signals both sides
Announced Power locks = Lie
8-Track
After a controlled gear-box assisted braking at a bridge payment stall (3-to-2nd only), the box seemed to stay stuck in 2'nd for a mile or two.. (low on fluid?).
We checked that ample amounts of fluid was present, but not exactly following the correct level check procedure, as it seemed to work fine.
I am so jealous of all the options !
No center light in imps ! You have 2 lights at the back of passengers and they can activate too these lights.
Shark light ( ones are working ) but can be not working simply due to bad contact in the bulb area.
Map light : in my 300H it started to work after 2 hour drive
maybe your will be an easy fix too ( bulb ? ) . But be careful, the wiring is a disaster on these cars. ( i never had time to make the cigarette lighters to work for exemple.. ) i will follow to when you will check at the A/C ! I need to check mine too.
Power locks : do not work or you do not have ?
My Imp is an early car, but at some time in it's history the relay was changed to the mechanical one.
I made a video of benchtesting mine:
[video]https://youtu.be/-ox_1lC_5K8[/video]
If the problem is in the red box, you will probably have to locate a mechanical replacement
I have a spare "package" but I'm not sure if its the mechanical relay or the red box. I never checked it, but I can check that tonight if you want.
I made a video of benchtesting mine:
[video]https://youtu.be/-ox_1lC_5K8[/video]
If the problem is in the red box, you will probably have to locate a mechanical replacement
I have a spare "package" but I'm not sure if its the mechanical relay or the red box. I never checked it, but I can check that tonight if you want.
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