1970 Fury I stripper!

That might be the case. I haven’t tried anything else in it. The guy I got it from said the one key does it all and it does. With the seized engine and non-functioning brakes, I don’t question anything that does work!
Understood. You just caught me with the mystery of the keys.
 
Not a fan of how this had to be removed!
Here’s where I need help,guys. What is a good part number for this master cylinder? From what I can tell this rod should come with it. What I’m seeing at my local Advance is a master cylinder that does not include the rod.
It seems that the engineers solution was to use a 1” bore for power or manual brakes and change the leverage of the pedal itself to correct the travel issues. What’s the solution?

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Not a fan of how this had to be removed!
Here’s where I need help,guys. What is a good part number for this master cylinder? From what I can tell this rod should come with it. What I’m seeing at my local Advance is a master cylinder that does not include the rod.
It seems that the engineers solution was to use a 1” bore for power or manual brakes and change the leverage of the pedal itself to correct the travel issues. What’s the solution?

View attachment 568179
RAYBESTOS MC36221
Should be it, they never came with the rod keep that. I have never looked for one with the studs, mine have always had the studs as part of the pedal assembly.
Your original cover still can be use if you want that original look, you may need to drill the hole out, the last one I got used a larger bolt than the factory one.

This is on a 67 Barracuda
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Alan
 
RAYBESTOS MC36221
Should be it, they never came with the rod keep that. I have never looked for one with the studs, mine have always had the studs as part of the pedal assembly.
Your original cover still can be use if you want that original look, you may need to drill the hole out, the last one I got used a larger bolt than the factory one.

This is on a 67 Barracuda
View attachment 568181


Alan
How does the rod come out?
 
Yanks were given! Lol, I was fishing for permission to use more persuasive measures! Thank you!
 
Cleaned out the cowl and dispatched my cat “Black Betty” to guide any displaced vermin to the other side.

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How does the rod come out?
There is a safety clip/ball deal that will probably not be usable or safe if it is in there that bad, there are new rods available though, not something to mess around with If it becomes dislodged, things could get interesting quickly.
Another look. And the massive clutch disc!

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View attachment 568188
Disc looks good at least, really cool car, comments mostly to follow thread. Can't wait to see more!!
 
Another look. And the massive clutch disc!

View attachment 568186

View attachment 568188

That size friction disc seems about right for that size engine. Smooth shifts. Go bigger and get more more jerk.

For example, I have a 230 flathead 6 in my truck with an 11" clutch disc mated to a 5 speed. It's too grabby (it's either on or off, not much slip) and I plan to swap out for a 10" disc in the future, although I have learned to drive relatively comfortable with the 11" to date.
 
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RAYBESTOS MC36221
Should be it, they never came with the rod keep that. I have never looked for one with the studs, mine have always had the studs as part of the pedal assembly.
Your original cover still can be use if you want that original look, you may need to drill the hole out, the last one I got used a larger bolt than the factory one.

This is on a 67 Barracuda
View attachment 568181


Alan
The Raybestos MC36221 booster that I bought in March 2022 for Regina, my FQ3 turquoise 1970 Polara 'vert with power drums, was made in China and the cover looks like the generic replacement booster that we have seen on many cars -- the photo below is on the Summit site. So @Triple Pickle -- if you want the original look, keep your old cover. If not, I am interested in buying the cover from you!

1648769032025-png.png
 
The Raybestos MC36221 booster that I bought in March 2022 for Regina, my FQ3 turquoise 1970 Polara 'vert with power drums, was made in China and the cover looks like the generic replacement booster that we have seen on many cars -- the photo below is on the Summit site. So @Triple Pickle -- if you want the original look, keep your old cover. If not, I am interested in buying the cover from you!

View attachment 568297
My original is in pretty bad shape. I haven’t decided which way I’m going to go with it but I have ordered a new MC36221.
 
Looks like the original clutch should be the mighty 9-1/4" unit, same as the Valiant! An 11" was optional, most likely used for taxi or police service. You'd have to change the flywheel for that. I had the 9-1/4" in an old B wagon, worked fine. I have an old USA rebuilt 10" disc / PP that will fit the 9-1/4" / 9-1/2" bolt pattern if you have any interest.
1970 clutches.jpg
 
These Plymouth Division hubcaps are as nice as I’ve seen. A few light scratches on close inspection but no dings.

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The drivers side had the original wheel cylinder. Such a weird history this car must have. The other side has a new wheel cylinder. Who puts a new wheel cylinder on and doesn’t replace the nearly worn out shoes?

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The drivers side had the original wheel cylinder. Such a weird history this car must have. The other side has a new wheel cylinder. Who puts a new wheel cylinder on and doesn’t replace the nearly worn out shoes?

View attachment 568377
A guy that needed a new wheel cylinder but didn't know he needed shoes. By the time he was in the process, the parts store was closed. And he wanted it on the road. And then it seemed to be stopping fine, so why open it up again?
 
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