1970 Fury I stripper!

A guy that needed a new wheel cylinder but didn't know he needed shoes. By the time he was in the process, the parts store was closed. And he wanted it on the road. And then it seemed to be stopping fine, so why open it up again?
I’d go along with that, but one new wheel cylinder with no rust? The master cylinder is original and is about as bad as they get. It ain’t pumped any fluid in a long time. The internals of the engine look like they came out of the back up generator for the Edmond Fitzgerald.
You have to remove the shoes to get the wheel cylinder off. So he would have known. Tires that were installed in 1983 that
still have “tits”… this wheel cylinder was put on long after the tires. The time lines just don’t match up with a lot of stuff on this car. Most things look like a well cared for 20k mile car,
like the interior ,keep it immaculate. But the engine? F*ck it, pour a pot of soup beans in the crankcase! Those are just two of the odd things about it. I’ve got a laundry list of other head scratching things defy logical explanation on this thing!
 
Just watched your video...damn good! Can relate to that in multiple ways...my dad was a WW2 vet, smoked Pall Mall non-filters & owned 3 new Furys: 66, 68, & 73. He's long gone now but the memories remain!
 
A cheap ****.
I think the new wheel cylinder was installed long after the engine had locked up and towards the end of its 35 year hibernation. It could have been an attempt to get some kind brakes on the car not for driving, but for the purpose of being able to at least stop the car while pushing it around. They probably gave up after realizing the entire brake system had returned to dust.
 
You old guys can probably smell this picture.

6168B00F-B014-487E-84DF-B0CC1E7DDD5C.jpeg
 
Put some new shoes on today. Waiting on a few rubber lines and seals to finish the job.

B9A7C731-E081-49B5-B16E-697AD009C679.jpeg


68B8ABE4-D009-4648-B3DD-9D661F2A1B00.jpeg
 
I have a good rebuildable engine if you are interested. It’s disassembled, but it is in good shape. Has a head, rods, pistons and a crank that go with it. PM me if you want it. I would love to see it go to a good home.
 
Got lines and seals in today. I’ll be making my own brake lines out of this stuff. It’s a little pricey but man is it easy to work with and I’ll never have to worry about it rusting out.
Still waiting on the master cylinder.
One thing is for sure, ya better have deep pockets if you plan on fixing up an old car. This brake system is going to end up being 4-500 bucks and I didn’t even need drums. It adds up quickly!

67A11064-2688-4C65-96F9-256C1CAF233B.jpeg


C931C0E8-106D-4711-AF0F-96F826280918.jpeg
 
Here’s what the MC cap looked like. I figured I’d mess with it a little. I soaked it in vinegar to remove the rust. Then I put a gazilion coats of silver wheel paint on it, followed with a dusting of metallic gold. Looks like ****. Lol

31C5D871-94FB-40DF-A903-E6817228C937.jpeg


AEE4691F-507C-4D5E-B7F2-F0A95405A5F9.jpeg
 
Gotta have brakes! I always make the brakes my first priority on these old car projects. I hate working on them only slightly less than having a system that doesn’t function at 100%.
I will be driving this car on the interstate, country roads, on city streets and the occasional cow pasture. They have to be the best that they can be!

BE78D5D0-E235-4CD3-BBEE-1E6B5C7870FE.jpeg
 
Got lines and seals in today. I’ll be making my own brake lines out of this stuff. It’s a little pricey but man is it easy to work with and I’ll never have to worry about it rusting out.
Still waiting on the master cylinder.
One thing is for sure, ya better have deep pockets if you plan on fixing up an old car. This brake system is going to end up being 4-500 bucks and I didn’t even need drums. It adds up quickly!

View attachment 568763

View attachment 568765

Interesting. Where did you get that coil at? I was considering stainless for my car but It's a biotch to work with....and expensive. I like the idea of a more malleable product as long as it's safe to use. The Ni-Copp probably forms a better flare seal too. Do you still need a tubing bender with this stuff?
 
It’s available at most parts stores. I got this at advance. No tubing bender needed with this stuff. Try it! You won’t go back.
 
cuda hunter said:
I hope the original numbers block is worthy of saving.
I know, it's just a slanty, but it would still be great to keep the original!

Does the motor have the correct vin stamp on it that match's the car?

It’s not on the deck, if that’s where it should be.

Look for a machined boss behind where the coil mounts.

The /6 is one tough motor. My money is on saving the one you have.

Omni
 
I'm no slanty expert as I have only had one so far.

from what I understand I have read that a 69 will have a vin stamp on the passengers side oil rail, where as a 70 and up I believe the VIN is stamped into the head gasket deck on a data plate. It is on the low side of the deck surface below plug #6.
 
Im grabbing a roll to have on hand, it has many good reviews. thanks triple
Amazon product ASIN B00A02C9H0
Interesting. Where did you get that coil at? I was considering stainless for my car but It's a biotch to work with....and expensive. I like the idea of a more malleable product as long as it's safe to use. The Ni-Copp probably forms a better flare seal too. Do you still need a tubing bender with this stuff?
 
Look at this mess right here! So much sludge in the oil pan it wouldn’t even drip a drop out of the drain plug. And that’s with 2 quarts of kerosene poured in the crankcase 2 days ago.

Have you guys ever seen such? I myself can’t fathom what happened to this car for it to be like this. Overheated? Sabotaged? Somebody put ?? in the crankcase?
It’s going to the machine shop in the morning. Hopefully it can be salvaged but I’m not counting on it.

View attachment 567392

View attachment 567393

View attachment 567394

View attachment 567395

View attachment 567396

View attachment 567397
Looks like it was severely overheated, torn down part way and left to sit. Interesting car
 
Back
Top