1978 NYB New Engine.....

My Doctor (hot as hell) at Johns Hopkins said that my vision will be corrected to 20/20 about a month after the 2nd surgery. I won't need glasses anymore and this will be a lifelong fix. I will probably need readers though.

Hot as hell before or after the Operation ? :poke:
 
BTW, I feel the need for these gauges with the performance level and cost of this engine. I need to know what the actual engine oil pressure and engine coolant temp is at all times. The factory gauge and idiot light are still operational too. The volt meter is necessary because the factory gauge doesn't work anymore since I have a 140 amp one wire alternator.
 
I was face up the whole time....LOL.

And all women working on me.

Who knows, maybe they took advantage of me.
Hot before the operation and hot as hell after! LOL!

:thumbsup:
Maybe they shot a video for you... :lol:

My shoulder surgery came with a video of the damage and repair... I watched it while eating diner the next day, looked over and saw Viv was turning green... oops.
 
I found a place to mount the gauge pod on a Ny'er.....

What do you guys think?

Of course I'm not done with the install yet. I'm waiting on a different temp gauge. I bought a mechanical one but that won't work because I ran out of coolant ports. I needed the other coolant port for the electric fans controller sending unit. I still have the factory temp gauge wired and working and I'm going to piggyback the SW electrical temp gauge off the same sending unit. Hopefully it will work. If not.... I'll go to Plan C.
40639-jpeg.jpg

Just a thought, but if it were mine, I'd work out a way to hang it from the glove box door (maybe a magnet). Better line of sight, out of the way of my leg, and I hate stuff where I can bang a knee/shin on it, and with a little extra wire it could be tucked inside when I didn't want to look at it. I'd rather have a vacuum gauge than a voltmeter too.
 
View attachment 229157
Just a thought, but if it were mine, I'd work out a way to hang it from the glove box door (maybe a magnet). Better line of sight, out of the way of my leg, and I hate stuff where I can bang a knee/shin on it, and with a little extra wire it could be tucked inside when I didn't want to look at it. I'd rather have a vacuum gauge than a voltmeter too.

That picture is a little deceiving. The gauges actually sit pretty high and are not hindering knee movement. Those guages are just a little over 2" in diameter. I have a small vacuum gauge from Comp Cams that mounts to the vacuum canister under the hood. The factory volt meter doesn't work anymore since I have a one wire 140 amp alternator. I don't have any other way to know if it's charging or shorting out unless I use a multimeter or smell something burning.
 
Glove box door mount or magnets wouldnt work very well and i dont want a component with a lot of wires flopping around either.
 
I found a place to mount the gauge pod on a Ny'er.....

What do you guys think?

Of course I'm not done with the install yet. I'm waiting on a different temp gauge. I bought a mechanical one but that won't work because I ran out of coolant ports. I needed the other coolant port for the electric fans controller sending unit. I still have the factory temp gauge wired and working and I'm going to piggyback the SW electrical temp gauge off the same sending unit. Hopefully it will work. If not.... I'll go to Plan C.


View attachment 229041

I would check for leg clearance when seated and also check comfort of entry and exit. If you’re good with it, then you should go for it.

IMO
 
Is your lighter always empty/unused? If so, you could flip it up so it covers that part of the dash. It might be more in sight that way.
 
I was considering customizing the entire dash gauges with a Stewart Warner gauge pod cluster.
 
I was considering customizing the entire dash gauges with a Stewart Warner gauge pod cluster.
As I.
I had a spare instrument panel on the shelf and I looked at it long and hard about converting it or even have Dakota Digital take a whack at it.
Converting the existing speedometer real estate was just way too involved. Probably more than the car was worth.
 
As I.
I had a spare instrument panel on the shelf and I looked at it long and hard about converting it or even have Dakota Digital take a whack at it.
Converting the existing speedometer real estate was just way too involved. Probably more than the car was worth.

I hear you Stan.

I'm way past what the car is worth.....

And very happy with it too!

:steering:
 
My Speedo still works....kind of.

It doesn't move until I get to 10-15 mph and then it'll pops up and then works normally.

I haven't been able to find a Speedo cable that bypasses the cruise unit.

If I would of thought more on the details before starting this build I would of came up with a custom Stewart Warner Green Line pod cluster.

I thought about it a couple of times and took the easy way around it with the 3 gauge pod.
 
I haven't been able to find a Speedo cable that bypasses the cruise unit.
Try this. It's worked a couple of times for me.
Look up the p/N of a non-cruise cable, and punch it into the Rockauto search box.
You'll probably get an available cable that replaces that number.
 
My Speedo still works....kind of.

It doesn't move until I get to 10-15 mph and then it'll pops up and then works normally.

I haven't been able to find a Speedo cable that bypasses the cruise unit.

If I would of thought more on the details before starting this build I would of came up with a custom Stewart Warner Green Line pod cluster.

I thought about it a couple of times and took the easy way around it with the 3 gauge pod.
Being as my speedometers don't work accurately, one is off 4mph and the other bounces everywhere, I actually drive by my tachometer. Used a GPS speedo app on my phone to calibrate so to speak,and use those numbers when out and about. If it works after 10-15 mph, I think that's what I'd call a working unit!
 
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