383 commando oil viscosity

[1978 NYB]

Brad Penn would be the best choice in my opinion but it is hard to find unless you order it on the web. I use a variety of 10W30's and add a bottle of this....the zinc content is what is important for these old motor's. Can be found at AAP and other places.

 

[detmatt]

Are you getting a kick back every time you mention AAP, Bob? You got sponsors???
im lucky to be able to buy Brad Penn by the case at Mancini's.

 

[saylor]

so whats my oil p.s.i. supposed to be on the gauge?

- saylor

 

[70bigblockdodge]

About 20@ idle and 50@ cruise seems about right.

 

[commando1]

so whats my oil p.s.i. supposed to be on the gauge?

- saylor

It's in the manual. Factory, Chilton's, Motors, Clymes..
Also in many rebuilding books and on Google.
You would do well to get one for basic info like this they are essential now and in the future.
Dave is correct but how do you really know that.
I'm a huge advocate for grabbing a fishing pole.

 

[Alchemi]

I got my FSM through Amazon - it has flat shipping on books and its like 2kg..... i think it cost me around $40 to my door here in Oz

You will get lots of "read you manual" responses in US forums and its good advice, there's nothing like the wisdom from someone half cut on booze - i have been known to do such things ccasion14:

 

[polara71]

Following the get a F SM advice we should just shut down all forums. Many questions here could be answered in literature . The FSM is not always correct and many techniques require special tools.

For the record, I have had a 70 and 71 manual and a 70/71 parts book and have for many many years. I would rather ask the question on a board, there is no substitute for experience, engineering is usually wrong.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Like how to get lower control arm bushings out the manual reads remove LCA bushing no info on easy way.

 

[GG-1]

For my 383 4bbl HP I just ordered a case of this:
Joe Gibbs DRIVEN HR-5 10W-40 High Zinc Petroleum Hot Rod Oil

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

If it's hot all the time you don't need to run a multi weight. I'd run straight 40 weight if I were you

I went with the single weights as Matt advises in my old Mopars, 40wt Valvoline Racing Oil,

Then:

And now:

10/30w when temps dropped down to freezing. Heck in my 1968 Fury III I was using some of my leftover Harley 60wt in the engine just so I could keep above 1 quart per tank of gas in it's final days before I put that car to bed.

Now my DD just gets Castrol 20/50wt as I won't pay the $$$ bunk for synthetics.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I've had excellent results from Valvoline's synthetic blend and straight synthetic 5w-30 or 10w-30. My oil pressure runs from about 20 psi when warmed up at an idle of ~550 rpm, to ~55 psi once the motor is turning at 1500+ rpm. A GOOD cooling system goes WELL with the lower viscosity oils, and you don't use as much power pumping high viscosity stuff when you stick with 30 W or lighter. My 1966 FSM refers to 5-20w even. I like synthetic oils. They don't seem to blacken up or break down so quickly, and the motor seems to turn easier with the lower viscosity stuff.

 

[GG-1]

Mineral Oil

Valvoline VR1 Racing Motor Oil 822388

 

[ImpJay]

Brad Penn would be the best choice in my opinion but it is hard to find unless you order it on the web. I use a variety of 10W30's and add a bottle of this....the zinc content is what is important for these old motor's. Can be found at AAP and other places.

I have heard (my dad had a discussion with a mechanic) that the zinc is more necessary when oil is going to Chevy engines, but Mopar engines do not so highly need it though it won`t be a bad thing.

 

[1978 NYB]

My engine builder Carolina Machine Engines only recommends this oil 15W40.

www.classiccarmotoroil.com

 

[ImpJay]

Here's another recommendation: Gulf Classic
SAE 20W-50.

 

[ImpJay]

Here's a picture.

 

[fury fan]

Unless we're gonna run a DOE (design of experiments) that carefully isolates various factors that can affect engine longevity, and disassemble/inspect engines after such tests, any discussion of which engine oil/additive is best (across all of our climates, and driving style) is pure speculation. There are some things you probably shouldn't do (like maybe run 0W15, or gear lube) but anything in the middle is probably OK.

We use what makes us feel good.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Brad Penn would be the best choice in my opinion but it is hard to find unless you order it on the web. I use a variety of 10W30's and add a bottle of this....the zinc content is what is important for these old motor's. Can be found at AAP and other places.

I almost bought a bottle of that stuff @ Oh-Really? today for $10. Is this a GOOD ZDDP additive? I saw at NAPA some "Greased Lightning" ZDDP additive but it also adds PTFE, which I'm very leery of after the Slick 50 debacle of ~ 20 yrs ago. I would LIKE to get more zinc into my 383, and am pondering Shell Rotella 10-30W on the next oil change....