If anything, I would think the round style flex plate should be more stable. It is all about how torque is transmitted. To avoid distortion of the flex plate which causes the bushing to wear out, it needs to run true with a minimum of stress related distortion and the full metal plate is ideal for this as the torque is evenly distributed across the surface of the circular pattern.. The 4 way flex plate can accomplish this as well as long as the four flex arms are sufficiently robust. If you are more comfortable with a 4 way plate, find one that is SMI approved and it should also preform well. Any SMI plate is supposedly pre-checked for alignment and run out. for At 410 horsepower, you will not be pushing the limits of either style plate. Most of the racers still run the circular plates on the track, but that is probably overkill for a street machine. I am not aware of any SMI circular flex plate issues causing front bushing burnouts. Most front bushing failures result from poorly balanced components or distortion of the transmission case due to missing bolts, improperly torqued bolts, mismatched components or an application with limit pushing horsepower/torque ratings. Usually in excess of 600 horses and 600 lbs torque at high rpms. At those numbers, the block is likely also flexing unless a lot of work has been done to the lower end.
Finally, when procuring a flex plate, be sure to order one for either the cast steel crank which is internally balanced or for the forged steel crank which is externally balanced. There is a world of difference between these two flex plates. (There is also a nodular iron crank starting mostly with '74 and later 440 engines, but these are not usually retained for high performance builds.)
Dave