440 Cooling

[BDR529]

I'm getting a bit ahead of myself with my project but this is one question that coming into my mind. Radiator/fan setups for my 75 Monaco with a 440. In the past I've had various overheating issues with different vehicles and I want to make sure this won't be an issue with the Monaco. I was thinking of an aftermarket radiator (2 or 3 row) with dual electric fans. I was looking at BeCool, but keep in mind I have ABSOLUTELY NO intention of getting one of those ridiculous chromed out versions. I'm about 150 miles away from my car right now and can't pull measurements. Does anyone have any input on this? Proper size or electric fans vs engine driven?

 

[commando1]

A friend replaced his 383 Chrysler with a Champion 3 row.
Kept the stock fan/clutch.
Solved his cooling problems. That's all I know.

 

[polara71]

Whats wrong with a stock re cored radiator? They look good and keep things cool, your hoses and lines line up.

 

[BDR529]

I have a 360 right now so I was under the impression it would have to be replaced anyway.

 

[polara71]

It will, I was referring to a stock 440 26" radiator, but re-cored.

 

[BDR529]

Well that's what I'm asking. Is there any reason not to go with stock? Are there any gains in replacing the stock fan with electric fans? I'm new to Mopars and to building an engine so I'm just looking for any input...

 

[commando1]

A million HWP cars with 440's idled for hours in 95 degree heat without ever pegging the needle.
A totally perfect stock system should be no problem.

 

[1978 NYB]

It will, I was referring to a stock 440 26" radiator, but re-cored.

My original 26" 2 row held up fine in bumper to bumper traffic in Carlisle @ 107 degrees and never moved higher than the normal spot on the gauge. Only problem I had with the cooling system 2 weeks ago was the Stant red lever radiator cap. The original cap is back on now.

 

[polara71]

If he has to locate a used stock radiator the best thing to do would be re-core it. You'll never have a problem and it'll look great with perfect fins and painted up nice.

 

[BDR529]

About how much does re-coring a radiator cost?

 

[polara71]

More than an aftermarket radiator does. Last one I had done was $350.00. but it is correct for my car

 

[BDR529]

One more question (for the time being) what cars are compatible to pull a radiator out of? I'm assuming any 74-78 Monaco, but are other C-bodies good to go, or will any 74-78 big block Mopar radiator work?

 

[BillGrissom]

I put a new aluminum "Pro-Cool" radiator in my 65 Newport. $80 on ebay (no PN). It didn't have brackets, just 4 tapped holes in the front, so I drilled matching holes in the radiator support. It was 1" too wide for my battery tray, so I replaced that (a bit rusted) with an after-market one. Haven't been driving the Newport since last Thanksgiving so can't say how it works. In the past, with a factory radiator I have occasionally had boiling after parking, but I think from running too lean. The Holley Pro-jection fuel system I have can get quirky. But I even had boil over when I first got the car in 1991 with the 2 bbl Rochester carb after going up a mountain road, even in winter.

 

[commando1]

One more question (for the time being) what cars are compatible to pull a radiator out of? I'm assuming any 74-78 Monaco, but are other C-bodies good to go, or will any 74-78 big block Mopar radiator work?

There's 26" radiators and there's 26" radiators.
The only way to give a general answer to that question is to stick to body line to body line, (e.g. A, B, C, bodies, etc) and by "generations" (e.g. For C-bodies: 65-68, 69-73, 74-78). Not foolproof but really the only way to generalize it.
When looking at any radiator, three things have to be compatible:
1. Upper & lower radiator hose locations
2. Radiator to radiator support mounting locations
3. Fan shroud mounting method.

BTW, This guy has a fairly good reputation if you're ultimately forced to go aftermarket. You can find him in the Moparts classifieds:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=7400318&an=0&page=0#Post7400318

 

[1978 NYB]

So...... what's the best route to go, recore the OEM rad or go with the aftermarket rad from Champion? I don't care about originality...looking for the most efficient fix. Which is better route to go? I can get a 26" OEM rad, 2 row, recored for $300-$350. The aftermarket looks like mods are required for fitment and mounting the shroud. That 3 row with the dual electric fans look nice! Is that the setup that is advertised for $280? I don't think it would be?

 

[commando1]

The three row champion will out cool the stock OEM any day of the week.
Installation is "almost" a bolt in. I say "almost" because I have seen/heard several times the top two mounting holes didn't line up correctly and had to be redrilled (no biggie in my opinion).
Oh, ya.. the fan setup is waaay extra...

 

[BDR529]

So 3 row champion for 240 or try pricing re cores and hopefully get lucky in a junk yard... Thanks for the info. Only other question, has anyone noticed any improvements with an electric fan vs. mechanical set-up?

 

[commando1]

There is no diference on COOLING. Zip. Nada.
Electric advantage: no parasitic horsepower loss.
Mechanical advantage: no wiring hassles.

(Sent using Forum Runner)

 

[BDR529]

Thanks for that info. I've always been decent enough at wiring things up, can't be that hard to tap into something that's only on when the car's running.... Since the RV motor doesn't have a fan, I figure it can't hurt to find an electric fan or two and mount them up...

 

[commando1]

There are complete A-Z wiring kits for the fans so it's easy enough.

(Sent using Forum Runner)