4x10 dash speaker won’t fit

Furyus67

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Location
Baltimore, MD
Car: 1967 Plymouth Fury III

I tried installing two 3.5 inch speakers into the single front 4x10 location and it’s not going to work. I ordered a mount that is shaped like a 4x10 but holds two 3.5” speakers.


For my dash, the speakers do not have enough inward slope underneath for the dash instrument panel to be installed once the speakers are installed.

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It looks like my only options are the RetroSound D-412UK dual voice coil speaker or the Custom Autosound Dual Voice Coil 3001DVC.



In my case I am running a factory radio conversion with the FMR 3.0 with the following specs:

4x22W RMS into 4ohms
4x45W MAX into 4ohms
Audio Response: 30Hz-15kHz

Speakers won’t be powered by an amp. I will be running a mono amp/powered sub (Kicker 46HS10).


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Any recommendation between the RetroSound DVC 4x10 and the Custom Autosound DVC 4x10?
 
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The magnets might be small by modern standards, but they are BIG by the standard of when the car was built.

Might need some countersunk-style screws to mount the speakers, rather than what is in there now? Some which are flatter that do not stick up so much.

Is there a flange toward the lower corners of the dash panel so you can mount them aiming gown, unbaffled? If so, build a baffle to go around the rest of the edges of the speaker for best results. So you don't have to over-drive them compared to the rear speakers.

On the rh kick panel, seems like there is a rectangular space with a flange around the edges where a speaker might be mounted. Would need to put the grille in the kick panel and put some padding so that the gap between the kick panel and the speaker was sealed from other sounds. I suspect there is a similar space on the lh kick panel, but don't know for sure. Would need to unbolt the parking brake to find out.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Just build your own mounting plate and move one speaker closer to the other. I say that without knowing how much room you need but it looks less than 2" maybe? If it still doesnt work you need a neodynium magnet on the woofer which will be more narrow and give you more room too. Like stock speakers ironically. Those speakers are not well advertised. I've used the Faital Pro before and they are good. In my fury which I think has a bigger speaker dash opening I used 2 4x6 infinity plate speakers, woofers in the center. Call me and we can figure it out.

3.5" inch Neodymium 4 ohm - Google Search

FaitalPRO 3FE22 3" Neodymium Professional Full-Range Woofer 4 Ohm (parts-express.com) out of stock -try here US SPEAKER Home Page Menu - Speaker Cabinets, Guitar & amp; Bass Amps, upgrades and custom design. The world’s widest choice of speaker parts. “If you have listened to live music, you have almost certainly listened to Eminence”

Dayton Audio ND90-4 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Neo Driver 4 Ohm (parts-express.com)
Dayton Audio DMA80-4 3" Dual Magnet Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm (parts-express.com)
Amazon.com: Retro Manufacturing R-352N Stereo Speakers 3.5" W/Neodymium Magnets W/O Grills (Pair) : Electronics
Amazon.com: Infinity Kappa 4"x6" 2-Way Loudspeakers-Pair (Black) : Electronics
Maybe? DOWN4SOUND JFX35 - 3.5 INCH CAR AUDIO SPEAKERS - 100W RMS - PAIR - Down4Sound Shop
 
Car: 1967 Plymouth Fury III

I tried installing two 3.5 inch speakers into the single front 4x10 location and it’s not going to work. I ordered a mount that is shaped like a 4x10 but holds two 3.5” speakers.

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For my dash, the speakers do not have enough inward slope underneath for the dash instrument panel to be installed once the speakers are installed.

View attachment 652198View attachment 652199View attachment 652200View attachment 652201View attachment 652202

It looks like my only options are the RetroSound D-412UK dual voice coil speaker or the Custom Autosound Dual Voice Coil 3001DVC.

[/URL]

[/URL]

In my case I am running a factory radio conversion with the FMR 3.0 with the following specs:

4x22W RMS into 4ohms
4x45W MAX into 4ohms
Audio Response: 30Hz-15kHz

Speakers won’t be powered by an amp. I will be running a mono amp/powered sub (Kicker 46HS10).


View attachment 652203

Any recommendation between the RetroSound DVC 4x10 and the Custom Autosound DVC 4x10?
I use the Custom Autosound dual coil speakers in two of my cars and they sound pretty good. One car has them driven by a 4 channel amp with a powered subwoofer and the other is powered by the Aurora converted radio with no amps.

I tried the RetroSound speakers a couple times and both times, they failed very miserably, where my Custom Autosound have been going strong for several years now.
 
found another neo speaker..looks like a faital clone from brasil. in stock at least

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Thank you @bnz84 I’ll be in touch. I think I’m going to mess with the bracket some Or maybe find somewhere to 3D print a new one. I think if I can move speaker that’s in the way to the right some, it can work.

Someone on Facebook 3D printed this one for use in his ‘68 Fury. Notice how close his speakers are compared to the photo of mine.

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Thank you @bnz84 I’ll be in touch. I think I’m going to mess with the bracket some Or maybe find somewhere to 3D print a new one. I think if I can move speaker that’s in the way to the right some, it can work.

Someone on Facebook 3D printed this one for use in his ‘68 Fury. Notice how close his speakers are compared to the photo of mine.

View attachment 652324
With 3D printing, you have to watch what material it's made from. If someone makes you one from PLA, it will melt.

I used a piece of thin MDF to make one for two Polk Audio speakers. I did that to replace the bad RetroSound speaker in the front of my '70 300. If I had it to do over, I'd put a Dual Coil Custom Autosound speaker like the 6x9 in the rear.

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I was thing that too about the 3D print Tell me where that 3d file is (.stl) and I can get it printed in ABS at the local maker space. My printer is not ready yet. However A piece of luan will work too for not much $
 
I ended up making one myself out of 1/4 MDF. Moving the left speaker to the right gave the dash panel enough room to seat correctly. I also am able to use the speakers I have rather than having to buy anything else new.

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I’d make it out of 6061 T6 and be done forever.
Well, there's that!
found another neo speaker..looks like a faital clone from brasil. in stock at least

Home
Home

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I've gotten some of this PRV stuff recently and I like it (initial impressions, anyway).
This DSP is really feature-loaded but it's a PITA to set up. It's almost like programming the fuel and spark tables for an EFI system - but with no base maps to start from!
But it's far more capable than the active x-overs I had been using.
I also got 2 pairs of these 6 6-1/2" midranges, they are a scant $35/pair on amazon.


I should make a thread about all teh speaker stuff I've been dabbling with over the winter instead of commenting in other people's discussions.
But that would take away from tinkering time...

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I will be doing a DSP also but I'm holing out for one with Optical input to strip out the noise. Any more info on your build would be appreciated. Ive got the amps, speakers and most wiring plus a digital toslink out bluetooth receiver. DSP is last. I should just quit waiting and get the expert audio 2.8 connect (no optical). We will see
 
I didn't know optical input would do that. I need to read up on that, might improve some of my plans.

Most of my dabbling this last year has been in trying to figure out decent front speakers for cars that didn't have them originally.
I plan to start a thread on my tinkering at some point, I'll try to remember to ping you on it.
Some of it will be useful, some of it inspiring, some of it just the whims of a madman.
 
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