65 Fury 318 Poly 4 bbl swap

[Davea Lux]

I am inclined to agree that it does not make sense to mess with a good manifold, Are you using a stock iron manifold or the Weiland square bore performance manifold from the early 1960's? There was also a later spread bore manifold, but those went obsolete many years ago. Jegs should be able either fix you up with the square bore AFB or an adapter plate. Mancini racing might also have the AFB to AVS adapter. www.manciniracing.com

Good Luck.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

I am inclined to agree that it does not make sense to mess with a good manifold, Are you using a stock iron manifold or the Weiland square bore performance manifold from the early 1960's? There was also a later spread bore manifold, but those went obsolete many years ago. Jegs should be able either fix you up with the square bore AFB or an adapter plate. Mancini racing might also have the AFB to AVS adapter. www.manciniracing.com

Good Luck.

Dave

A good description of the various style carbs and flange mountings is available at: (carb shop has these in the carter articles section)


www.thecarburetorshop.com.

www.speedwaymotors.com has the adapters

Dave

 

[Jay Gibbs]

A good description of the various style carbs and flange mountings is available at: (carb shop has these in the carter articles section)


www.thecarburetorshop.com.

www.speedwaymotors.com has the adapters

Dave

Just did some measuring...the plates extend past the base just slightly over 1/2 inch at full deflection. I was able to find a 1/2 inch thick square bore spacer from Summit Racing that should allow the plates clear the top of the manifold...I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

J.G.

 

[Davea Lux]

Just did some measuring...the plates extend past the base just slightly over 1/2 inch at full deflection. I was able to find a 1/2 inch thick square bore spacer from Summit Racing that should allow the plates clear the top of the manifold...I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

J.G.

If that works, if you have access to a porting tool, clean it up (spacer or thick gasket) to reduce turbulence.

Dave

 

[Snotty]

Just did some measuring...the plates extend past the base just slightly over 1/2 inch at full deflection. I was able to find a 1/2 inch thick square bore spacer from Summit Racing that should allow the plates clear the top of the manifold...I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

J.G.

Now you have to check whether you will have enough room at the top of your air cleaner, when installed, to clear your hood when it's closed. I could not put a spacer on my Newport and still close the hood. Don't damage that hood by using an incorrect carb!

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Well I've made some progress over the last few months...had the manifold media blasted and painted it poly red. Bought and installed all new coolant nipples. Had to buy a new coolant temp sending unit as the 2bbl unit is too small. I found a 3/8" phenolic spacer was just thick enough to allow the butterflies to open without interference while keeping the overall height increase to a minimum.

Also purchased a pair of the finned aluminium valve covers from the blokes at Pentastar Restorations. Think I'm going to leave them natural cast look rather than polishing them. I've got all the new gaskets I'll need and think that the throttle linkage adaptation shouldn't be too difficult. The last piece of the puzzle is the poly performance cam I found at camcraftcams...figure if I'm going this far, a little lumpy idle should tie the whole project together...

J.G.

 

[Jay Gibbs]

A couple pics...

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Finally getting close to finishing up this project. It got a lot more complicated with "additional tasks" that involved removing heads, grinding valves, installing slightly higher performance valve springs, new valve stem seals, a performance cam and new lifters. More than two months later, heads and cam are finally back on/in and readying to FINALLY install the 4 barrel intake that started this whole project! A couple questions on the intake installation- the Fel-Pro head to intake gaskets are metal crush type gaskets... should they go on dry, or should I coat both sides around the intake and water passages with Permatex aviation form a gasket (or the Permatex high tack gasket sealant?
Also, what's the consensus on the front and rear foam rubber gaskets?...I hear varying opinions as to whether they should be used (with a blob of Permatex at the ends) -or- Not to use them at all, and instead just run a bead of Permatex entirely across the front and rear intake mating surfaces???

Thanks,

J.G.

 

[Snotty]

AMC motors have the same type of gaskets on the front and rear of the valley pan area. I was told to not try to use them and just use large amounts of Permatex. I didn't listen at first. When the gaskets kept rolling I took people's advice. Has worked well.

 

[rags]

on the ford and chevy small blocks, it's the law to toss the end seals. i use motorcraft TA-30 gray rtv. also a very thin strip of this around the coolant passages. brown aviation around air passages. that motor looks fantastic with those valve covers. old school.

 

[Davea Lux]

The embossed metal gaskets came from the factory with no sealant and that will work as long as the mating surfaces are not pitted or rusted. I use the aviation Permatex on any that are badly degraded. The regular liquid Permatex is fine for one ones that are just not perfect but not badly degraded. I use the red Permatex RTV form a gasket on the ends. Be sure the ends are very clean and completely free of oil.

Dave

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Thanks for the advice...the intake and head mating surfaces are perfect, so the metal intake ones will go on dry. I had heard of many problems with people using the foam rubber gaskets on the ends...I can't imagine dropping the manifold exactly over the bolt holes the first time without moving it slightly to line things up. I can see how the foam gaskets could easily get scrunched up or rolled by trying to adjust things slightly. Probably should have used the Permatex red on the timing cover...think that crummy paper gasket will come back to bite me!...live and learn...

J.G.

 

[Jay Gibbs]

I'm getting close with the Fury. Finally got the intake installed this afternoon. Started to reconnect the various plugs from the wiring harness to the sensors and the coil and figured I'd try to see if it would crank when I was done. Reconnected the negative battery cable and got the interior lights to light up. Then tried the ignition switch and the instrument lights lighted up. Turned the key to start and nothing!...

Went back and found a couple wires I hadn't reattached, plugged them in and got back into the car and now everything is dead...no interior lights, no dash lights, nothing. Checked the under dash fuses and they all seem fine. Battery has been on a trickle charger the whole summer and it seems fine too.

Is there like a master fusible link or master fuse somewhere under the hood? I'm figuring I might have shorted something in the process of reconnecting the harness and killed everything...

Any ideas??

Thanks!

J.G.

 

[Davea Lux]

There is a fusible link someplace close to where the power cable goes into the starter relay, usually will have tab on it that says "fusible link."

Dave

 

[Jay Gibbs]

There is a fusible link someplace close to where the power cable goes into the starter relay, usually will have tab on it that says "fusible link."

Dave

Will this kill all the power to the car or just to the starter?...whole car is dead...

 

[Davea Lux]

Will this kill all the power to the car or just to the starter?...whole car is dead...

Usually if the fusible link goes, it will kill power to everything else. There should be two wires hooked to the big terminal on the relay. One comes from the battery and is fused, the second wire feeds into the firewall connector to the fuse block and ignition. That is whole purpose of a fusible link, to keep the harness and car from burning out.

Dave

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Usually if the fusible link goes, it will kill power to everything else. There should be two wires hooked to the big terminal on the relay. One comes from the battery and is fused, the second wire feeds into the firewall connector to the fuse block and ignition. That is whole purpose of a fusible link, to keep the harness and car from burning out.

Dave

Thanks... I'll check for it tomorrow. On replacing it if it's bad- is it something I can pick up at a local auto parts store?

J.G.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks... I'll check for it tomorrow. On replacing it if it's bad- is it something I can pick up at a local auto parts store?

J.G.

Most auto parts sell a universal kit. Be sure to buy one that is the same wire gauge.

Dave

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Most auto parts sell a universal kit. Be sure to buy one that is the same wire gauge.

Dave

Most of the harness connectors are of little relevance...I'm guessing I must have swapped a lead on the coil to have potentially smoked the fusible link???

J.G.

 

[Davea Lux]

Most of the harness connectors are of little relevance...I'm guessing I must have swapped a lead on the coil to have potentially smoked the fusible link???

J.G.

Coil hook up will not short anything out unless you hooked the distributor lead from the points to one of the hot leads from either the ballast resistor or the ignition switch. If you left the key on with the points in the closed position, that could smoke something.

Dave