'66 Newport hesitates

[5fty7vn]

My '66 Newport hesitates/"sputters" upon acceleration. Just started doing this today. Any ideas what might be causing it? I put new plugs in it about 2500 miles ago so i'm a little skeptical on if that is the problem. It's got a 383 2bbl.

 

[CBODY67]

Is it a "sag", "flat spot", "miss under load", or just not responsive.

What spark plugs and gap? Champion J-14Y equivalents gapped at .035" were the plugs they used, when the car was new. Where is the idle speed and mixture set?

Ignition and fuel system issues can seem to be the same, but have different causes.

Condition and routing of the plug wires?

With the hood open, engine stopped, air cleaner removed, manually operate the throttle linkage and see if there is a solid accel pump shot into the throttle bores of the carb.

And, of course, check to see that the oil level is where it needs to be, for good measure.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

Is it a "sag", "flat spot", "miss under load", or just not responsive.

What spark plugs and gap? Champion J-14Y equivalents gapped at .035" were the plugs they used, when the car was new. Where is the idle speed and mixture set?

Ignition and fuel system issues can seem to be the same, but have different causes.

Condition and routing of the plug wires?

With the hood open, engine stopped, air cleaner removed, manually operate the throttle linkage and see if there is a solid accel pump shot into the throttle bores of the carb.

And, of course, check to see that the oil level is where it needs to be, for good measure.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67

While you are at it, check the point gap and the point resistance.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

Base timing should be 12.5 degrees BTDC at hot base idle.

 

[5fty7vn]

Well got the hesitation part fixed, added some oil to it and the hesitation stopped.................took it out for a test drive and alternator gauge on the dash goes all the way over to "C" when I give it gas. Haven't seen it do that before..............car started to fill with smoke and reeked of electrical. Normally when I drive it the alternator gauge stays pretty close to the center line between "D" and "C". Any ideas what that could be?

 

[CBODY67]

Back when I was in college with the '66 Newport, when it was about 7 years old, one day I got in it to go somewhere off-campus. At a red light, I smelled smoke and noticed the Alternator gauge was in discharge and would not charge as it normally did. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the wire going to the gauge, down at the bulkhead connector. Poor connection, they said. No more problems.

Unusual for the gauge to spike, though, as if the regulator might have stuck of something.

Download a FSM from www.mymopar.com, then look at the wiring schematics to see what wires go to the gauge itself, inside the passenger compartment and also under the hood. Then look for heat damage to the wiring. Hopefully, that should lead to the problem.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67

 

[5fty7vn]

Back when I was in college with the '66 Newport, when it was about 7 years old, one day I got in it to go somewhere off-campus. At a red light, I smelled smoke and noticed the Alternator gauge was in discharge and would not charge as it normally did. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the wire going to the gauge, down at the bulkhead connector. Poor connection, they said. No more problems.

Unusual for the gauge to spike, though, as if the regulator might have stuck of something.

Download a FSM from www.mymopar.com, then look at the wiring schematics to see what wires go to the gauge itself, inside the passenger compartment and also under the hood. Then look for heat damage to the wiring. Hopefully, that should lead to the problem.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67

That sounds like exactly what happened here. It's definitely something electrical. Thank you for the link.............i'm hoping I don't have to tear it down too much to find the problem.

 

[65sporty]

I would start by checking the alternator, regulator and wiring from the alternator and regulator to the gauge. Check the bulkhead connector also.

 

[rags]

alternator gauge on the dash goes all the way over to "C" when I give it gas.

alternator's full fielding. regulator's probably stuck.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Well got the hesitation part fixed, added some oil to it and the hesitation stopped.................took it out for a test drive and alternator gauge on the dash goes all the way over to "C" when I give it gas. Haven't seen it do that before..............car started to fill with smoke and reeked of electrical. Normally when I drive it the alternator gauge stays pretty close to the center line between "D" and "C". Any ideas what that could be?

You have a serious SHORT CIRCUIT bro! I suspect the alternator charging stud is touching the control arm when you goose the gas. WHY? You have a busted motor mount permitting this. Exactly these same symptoms afflicted me when I first got my 66 Newport. Replaced the motor mounts. Replaced all the burnt wiring. Replaced the alternator, since the stud busted loose. No more such troubles.

Check motor mounts and alternator charging stud.

 

[5fty7vn]

alternator's full fielding. regulator's probably stuck.

Yup..........voltage regulator was bad. Replaced it and haven't had a problem with it so far. I did find where the smoke was coming from too. The plastic bulkhead got hot enough to melt it just a bit. All connectors look good though. I think i'll take the old bulkhead out and replace it........and as long as i'm doing that......i'll replace the connectors too. That way everything will be new and clean. Car runs good though..........haven't had any issues aside from the melting plastic.

 

[live4theking]

I think it is @Big_John that knows a source for new bulkhead connectors.

 

[Big_John]

I think it is @Big_John that knows a source for new bulkhead connectors.

Here's some.
48 pcs Mopar wiring bulkhead terminals connectors A B C E Body Charger Cuda | eBay

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

Hopefully you replaced the Vreg with a solid-state electronic one and not another OEM-style electro-mechanical one. (If you're not sure what you got, the OEM-style electro-mechanical one has wire-wound resistors on the backside.)

They are called "Packard 56" connectors. A google search for that will turn-up a number of suppliers for the terminals. If repairing the existing wiring, note that the terminals for the alternator and battery are heavier gauge than the others in the bulkhead connector to carry more current. However, the best solution would be to perform the "MAD conversion" on your wiring, which bypasses the bulkhead connector and the in-dash ammeter. Both of these are known failure points in our cars. See this link for details:

Catalog

 

[5fty7vn]

Hopefully you replaced the Vreg with a solid-state electronic one and not another OEM-style electro-mechanical one. (If you're not sure what you got, the OEM-style electro-mechanical one has wire-wound resistors on the backside.)

They are called "Packard 56" connectors. A google search for that will turn-up a number of suppliers for the terminals. If repairing the existing wiring, note that the terminals for the alternator and battery are heavier gauge than the others in the bulkhead connector to carry more current. However, the best solution would be to perform the "MAD conversion" on your wiring, which bypasses the bulkhead connector and the in-dash ammeter. Both of these are known failure points in our cars. See this link for details:

Catalog

Yes I did. I've seen some of the OE style VR's..........they don't even look trustworthy!!

 

[5fty7vn]

Here's some.
48 pcs Mopar wiring bulkhead terminals connectors A B C E Body Charger Cuda | eBay

Thank you........post says connectors aren't compatible my Newport though (1966 Chrysler Newport). But I appreciate the referral.