67 Newport getting Air Conditioning ..pulley question

MBar

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I've decided to invest in ac so I can enjoy my car in the summer.... A simple google shows the link below. I spoke with them and seems like a pretty good deal. Includes shipping to California. I need to find the bracket, etc for the compressor. I have a 383 without factory air. I see some have options for alternator as well and I'm not sure if I need that... As I said, I need to keep cost low. If I can, then I just might cool my 72 Fury as well.
Any advice is welcome
http://coldmasterinc.com/product/ac-kit-universal-under-dash-evaporator-22-220btu-450a-100hd-12v/
 
Sorry, not much help with that one. There might be some other changes required to the routing of the belts when adding AC. Do you have an FSM that would show the belts with and without AC?
I've looked at Vintage Air and their system uses a pulley that goes on front of the crank pulley and also a bracket with an idler. looks like it could look odd...more important, it's about 275.00 and I hope to do it more cost-effectively as that kills my budget.
 
Basically, you will be adding a/c to a car that came without it, not unlike we did in the later 1960s, with an under-dash "hang-down" cooling unit. Using a much better (than the compressors we had back then) Sanden compressor, I suspect.

On the factory a/c cars, the compressor and alternator were both dual belt units, with belts to match. The water pump was also run by a single belt that hooked to the same crankshaft pulley. Redundancy? Possibly as if the dual a/c belts might fly off, the water pump would still turn.

For the underhood stuff, get their complete kit. That way, everything matches.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I
Basically, you will be adding a/c to a car that came without it, not unlike we did in the later 1960s, with an under-dash "hang-down" cooling unit. Using a much better (than the compressors we had back then) Sanden compressor, I suspect.

On the factory a/c cars, the compressor and alternator were both dual belt units, with belts to match. The water pump was also run by a single belt that hooked to the same crankshaft pulley. Redundancy? Possibly as if the dual a/c belts might fly off, the water pump would still turn.

For the underhood stuff, get their complete kit. That way, everything matches.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
have done some research and phone calls... pretty sure I am gonna order the Coldmaster kit for about 650 bucks

CM-KIT 228 22000 Btus – Cold Masters INC

The least expensive pulley solution is from Nastalgic AC. Spoke with them and very nice people. the bracket in this link works with or without an idler and add-on pulley.

Big Block Mopar/Chrysler 383, 400, 413, 426, 440 Compressor Bracket

If you click on the link for instructions, there are multiple options including just the bracket on single belt with alternator for 149.00

I was looking at Coldmaster 450-A they recommended but the 228 will cool faster and also has more vents and is about an inch less tall at the rear. (11 inches deep).

Now, when I measure the space, it looks like I will need to remove my heater box to make space. They have a neat (and inexpensive heater)

http://coldmasterinc.com/product/car-and-truck-heater-12v-under-dash-with-speed-switch/

Sooooooo.... I got under there and took a look. Not a factory AC car BTW. yes, seems like I am going to be pulling the heater box. I did a quick search on the forum but didn't find a procedure. Is this a difficult job? Once I pull it out, I will have more options as to the evaporator, including defrost. I just want AC but as usual it is looking more involved.
 
Thanks for the info. Defrost is a good thing to have, although you can dehumidify with the a/c, but some air blowing on the windshield can be a good thing.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Thanks for the info. Defrost is a good thing to have, although you can dehumidify with the a/c, but some air blowing on the windshield can be a good thing.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
Thanks :)
what about pulling the heater box? How do you do it? can you point me to a procedure?
 
Possibly the "heater core replacement" procedure in the FSM might get you about 1/2 way there?
 
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