Lord Alvin
Member
The bog? Are you referring to the hesitation when I accelerate from a stop or when I am going around a corner? As far as I can tell, there is no change in the way the engine is performing.
"68 Fury III. 318 with Carter carb. Runs rough.
- Thread starter Lord Alvin
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I'm out. Jason?
Lord Alvin
Member
I'm not an idiot. I'm trying to learn about something new here. In my world a bog is a marshy area with poor drainage and rotting vegetation. I don't know how that pertains to an engine. Sorry I tried your patience.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I wasn't talking down to you. I said using your words 'not a mechanic'. As far as helping you further, I was out of possible remiedies that could be done without mechanical skills.
And, you're welcome...
I'm guessing English is your second language.
And, you're welcome...
I'm guessing English is your second language.
Lord Alvin
Member
No. I was born and raised in America. I'm a well educated, white, middle-aged male business owner. Father of two teenagers. Married 23 years. I am a Grammy-nominated audio engineer. I own a recording studio in Nashville, TN where I do most of my own maintenance. The equipment I own and maintain is far more complex than any C Body. In college I double majored in Literary Interpretation. Is that enough background so that we may speak without making inaccurate assumptions?
I was simply trying to clarify how you were using the word "bog". The way you were asking didn't make sense to me in context.
With that out of the way, I would like to figure out how to make my car run properly. I have been researching on other websites and found some information that could be helpful. Would anyone care to help me out? Perhaps via email or a phone conversation? Thanks.
Big blubber
Senior Member
Stan is referring to bog in car terms , As in bogging down when depressing the throttle pedal it is stuttering I don't think he was claiming you where an idiot He was just trying to get to the bottom of your query and helping you I'm quite sure you will eventually get it sorted :busted:
Lord Alvin
Member
That's what I thought.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Timing good
Not missing good
You say it is running rich, makes your eyes water? This is a problem too much fuel is getting in I would suspect rich all the time not just at idle possibly the float is too high. If you look down in the carb when it is idling you may fuel dripping from venture boosters. Let us know what you find.
Not missing good
You say it is running rich, makes your eyes water? This is a problem too much fuel is getting in I would suspect rich all the time not just at idle possibly the float is too high. If you look down in the carb when it is idling you may fuel dripping from venture boosters. Let us know what you find.
1966newport
Well-Known Member
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you need find a real mechanic
Big blubber
Senior Member
Yea but there few and far between , Modern mechanics are all keyboard warriors ,They just want to plug there laptop in tell you what you already know ,Then charge you a fortune As soon as you drive it away another light comes on and it's back to the guy ,With his wee computer:laughing11:
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
If I may add a few things to consider gentlemen.
I've been reading thread and see some good suggestions to check like a worn timing chain and off timing.
Any good repair shop would do what I am about to detail here
(not just the computer plug in to fix the car kind of shop)
Has the engine been tuned up recently?
So has the basic timing issue has been put to rest?
Well let's check the slack in the chain first so we can put the mechanical timing question to bed.
One really quick way to check timing is with the engine running off choke & the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged so there is no vacuum leak.
Well let's check the slack in the chain first so we can put the mechanical timing question to bed.
Checking the Timing chain itself
With the engine off manually rotate the engine lining up the timing marks up @ 0'top dead center. (note the direction you turned the engine in)
- Now slowly reversing the direction of rotation on the crankshaft pulley there will be a looser feeling before the camshaft starts to move.
- Once you feel the camshaft start to rotate, take note of how many degrees the crank pulley rotated
- it may take a few tries to get the feel of this slack
(engines with low compression will be easier to rotate)
End result - From past experience anything beyond 6 degrees indicates a worn chain & gears that should be replaced..
- others may state a higher # but this is my max.
What is the overall Vacuum of the engine like? It is near the factory spec or low or jumping all over the map?
What has a compression check revealed?
- I suggest 2 types of check
a) Cold compression check
b) Warm compression check
- If you note a low compression that is more than 15-20psi off then
a) you need to add some oil to the cylinder
Note that if the valves are weak most will recommend you rebuild the engine at this point as it may cause the bottom end to smoke and use oil and result in a doing the job twice scenario.
Lastly, is the carburetor.
My opinion is that unless the owners manual for your year and model and engine state it, I would not use premium.
*** bad as the new gasoline is these days, it’s the octane that you need to consider
You may need to finding a gas station that has no ethanol added which can be a tough thing to do
Back to the carb…
When was it last rebuilt?
When was the last filter change?
Did you take it apart to see what you have been filtering?
You don’t know or the car has always run like this since you got it?
It may have a plugged mid range jet passage…
These 2bbl carbs aren’t a scary thing to rebuild.
You just need the right tools and time to do it.
Even popping the top of so you can look into the float chamber can show if there is dirt or water in the carb just waiting to bog the engine down when you drive over a pot hole or bump in the road.
But let’s step back a little. What is the fuel pump doing?
Is it pumping out the right amount?
It could be not doing its’ job and starving the engine at hi-way speeds..
Again another test to perform..
Above all Download the factory repair manuals for this car and read them over as you take the above steps I have suggested.
The only thing here that taking it to a garage is that this is a very time consuming effort and you are more than likely going to be charged door rates to get the hopefully right answer for what is causing the issue at hand here
Good luck with your repair here and let us know how it goes
I've been reading thread and see some good suggestions to check like a worn timing chain and off timing.
Any good repair shop would do what I am about to detail here
(not just the computer plug in to fix the car kind of shop)
Has the engine been tuned up recently?
- New spark plugs
- Fuel filter
- Air filter
- Ignition wires
- Points/condenser
So has the basic timing issue has been put to rest?
Well let's check the slack in the chain first so we can put the mechanical timing question to bed.
One really quick way to check timing is with the engine running off choke & the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged so there is no vacuum leak.
- Fire the timing gun at the marks and see what it is doing at idle.
- If the timing is spot on then rev the engine to 2500rpms and see if it moves away from the setting away from TDC.
- If it does great – it means that the mechanic/vacuum weights are working
- If not then it indicates a stuck mechanical or vacuum advance
- Now repeat this with the vacuum advance hooked up
- The timing should move even further away
- If it doesn’t then you may have a bad vacuum advance
- Time to check the distributor further
- You can test this with a vacuum pump and see if the vacuum drops when you apply vacuum.
- If it holds then you are good to go
- Next step
Well let's check the slack in the chain first so we can put the mechanical timing question to bed.
Checking the Timing chain itself
With the engine off manually rotate the engine lining up the timing marks up @ 0'top dead center. (note the direction you turned the engine in)
- Now slowly reversing the direction of rotation on the crankshaft pulley there will be a looser feeling before the camshaft starts to move.
- Once you feel the camshaft start to rotate, take note of how many degrees the crank pulley rotated
- it may take a few tries to get the feel of this slack
(engines with low compression will be easier to rotate)
End result - From past experience anything beyond 6 degrees indicates a worn chain & gears that should be replaced..
- others may state a higher # but this is my max.
What is the overall Vacuum of the engine like? It is near the factory spec or low or jumping all over the map?
What has a compression check revealed?
- I suggest 2 types of check
a) Cold compression check
b) Warm compression check
- If you note a low compression that is more than 15-20psi off then
a) you need to add some oil to the cylinder
- If it jumps up then it is a ring problem
- If it stays low then it is a valve issue
- If the compression is even all across but lower then it is a matter of using oil to see if you can bring the compression up to check the rings or valves.
- Again if it jumps up then it is rings.
- If not then it is a matter of doing a valve job to bring it back up closer to specs.
Note that if the valves are weak most will recommend you rebuild the engine at this point as it may cause the bottom end to smoke and use oil and result in a doing the job twice scenario.
Lastly, is the carburetor.
My opinion is that unless the owners manual for your year and model and engine state it, I would not use premium.
*** bad as the new gasoline is these days, it’s the octane that you need to consider
You may need to finding a gas station that has no ethanol added which can be a tough thing to do
Back to the carb…
When was it last rebuilt?
When was the last filter change?
Did you take it apart to see what you have been filtering?
You don’t know or the car has always run like this since you got it?
It may have a plugged mid range jet passage…
These 2bbl carbs aren’t a scary thing to rebuild.
You just need the right tools and time to do it.
Even popping the top of so you can look into the float chamber can show if there is dirt or water in the carb just waiting to bog the engine down when you drive over a pot hole or bump in the road.
But let’s step back a little. What is the fuel pump doing?
Is it pumping out the right amount?
It could be not doing its’ job and starving the engine at hi-way speeds..
Again another test to perform..
Above all Download the factory repair manuals for this car and read them over as you take the above steps I have suggested.
The only thing here that taking it to a garage is that this is a very time consuming effort and you are more than likely going to be charged door rates to get the hopefully right answer for what is causing the issue at hand here
Good luck with your repair here and let us know how it goes
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
There you go, he laid it out much better and I was assuming the car ran smooth and proper except what you noted. That's why he is a mechanic and I'm a truck driver, my listening skills are not that good lol.
Lord Alvin
Member
Wow. I am grateful for the thoughtful advice as well as the use of full sentences. I will get on these things and report back.
KUDOS to you Sir for your in depth reply.
It takes time to put something like this into words and I respect your efforts!
I will try and pay closer attention to my grammar skills. However I was struggling with "NEW MATH" in grade school at the time they were teaching grammar and some of it slipped past me.
Lord Alvin
Member
I went over to a friends house this weekend and tried the tests mr fix it gave me. It appears that the timing chain is good and the vacuum advance is working as it should. We spent most of Saturday afternoon messing around with the timing until we found the sweet spot where the car ran without knocking and wasn't hesitating when I step on the gas. It only has the faintest hint of a knock when I'm accelerating up hill. Overall, the car is much happier.
The remaining problem is that the car still likes to stall out when I go around a corner. Particularly when turning left. The carb is a reman and is a year old. I still have the original that was working perfectly and had been rebuilt twice by other mechanics trying to solve the problem. After the rebuilds didn't work I was advised to just get a new carb. What a waste of money. It would appear that in Nashville no one likes to work on carbs.
The remaining problem is that the car still likes to stall out when I go around a corner. Particularly when turning left. The carb is a reman and is a year old. I still have the original that was working perfectly and had been rebuilt twice by other mechanics trying to solve the problem. After the rebuilds didn't work I was advised to just get a new carb. What a waste of money. It would appear that in Nashville no one likes to work on carbs.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The stalling on left turns definitely sounds like I would be checking the floats.
You should be all set after that.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Good call Stan.
It shouldn't run out of gas that quickly which could make it a float issue like you are suggesting
Check out how to do a float drop check as well.
Did you check the Fuel pump pressure?
Another thing to check is the wiring harness to make sure it isn't stretched and rubbing an flexing causing the electrical to short out causing you to think the car is stalling out because of a lack of gas..
Pay close attention to the wiring especially near the distributor.
If it is tight or worn this could be part of the problem.
Glad to hear things are getting sorted out.
It shouldn't run out of gas that quickly which could make it a float issue like you are suggesting
Check out how to do a float drop check as well.
Did you check the Fuel pump pressure?
Another thing to check is the wiring harness to make sure it isn't stretched and rubbing an flexing causing the electrical to short out causing you to think the car is stalling out because of a lack of gas..
Pay close attention to the wiring especially near the distributor.
If it is tight or worn this could be part of the problem.
Glad to hear things are getting sorted out.
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