Ok a little frustrated at this point, car started up good was breaking the cam in, but the car was getting hot like 210 220, radiator was ok, but the temp wouldn't shoot down , just put a new 180 thermostat in. The heater hoses were hot so the coolant was flowing through there we were trying to get the air bubbles out but for some reason it wouldn't drop, thnking bad thermostat right out of the box, the 195 worked good, with the old radiator. the new radiator is fine no leaks clogs coolant is clean when I drained it out. Any suggestions. Water pump is new hoses are clamped good, changing out the bottom hose being I used a stupid flex hose looks smaller than the molded, I don't know at this point. Gonna pick up a new thermostat tomorrow. Mayne because of the spring in the top hose? Any help would be appreciated.
68 Newport Cam break in
- Thread starter mrzods13
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300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Do you have a fan shroud? If the engine is working like that with only the air movement from the fan, with no shroud especially, it will tend to get a bit hotter. The additional air while driving will help it to cool down.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Probably with my luck the radiator isn't doing it's job in that case its going back, they only send a new one, no returns if coolant was run through it, my fault no one elses. The only thing that makes me think it was the thermostat is the temp shot down quick once down to 190 and then took a while to go back up. After that didnt do it again.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Tough to say 210- 220 really not a problem, especially if running 2000-2500 sitting still. Where is timing and carb jetting all the requirements changed with cam more fuel and air moving though engine =runs hotter.
Well put the new thermostat in, car still got to 230 but very slowly, the cam was broken in 3 10 minute shots had to shut it down before the temp got too high. After it was broken in we shut it down tried to start it again and nothing. Now i'm lost I want to start it up again to try it with the old belt driven fan on it.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I replaced it so no it isn't, What is it the timing car was tdc before break in started up no problem no backfire popping at all, puffs of smoke nothing. If you have run into this before I would appreciate the advice.
AAR65
Member
Where is your timing at at 2500 rpm? I would be looking for 30 degrees plus regardless of initial. Retarded timing will almost always cause an engine to run way hotter than the proper advance.
Another hint, the product Prolong has proven to me to be the best hydraulic flat tappet cam break in additive on the planet. The stuff hocked by Bobby Unser.
Shutting the car off repeatedly during break in greatly increases the chance of wiping a lobe or two so good luck. I seriously hope you avoided that.
Andy
Another hint, the product Prolong has proven to me to be the best hydraulic flat tappet cam break in additive on the planet. The stuff hocked by Bobby Unser.
Shutting the car off repeatedly during break in greatly increases the chance of wiping a lobe or two so good luck. I seriously hope you avoided that.
Andy
ok quick update I drain the oil from the Newport no metal shavings or any kind of metal particles at all I filter the oil from the pan and you against and there was nothing on the napkin I also cut the oil filter open and I searched through the paper shining light through it and the magnet and no metal fragments whatsoever so I guess that's good, also I think the timing is definitly off, I think it is supposed to be 10 degrees before TDC.But I still don't know why it didn't start the other day after everything was broken in, I have a high torque starter that I will install, and the electronic kit from pertronix.
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moper
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If the temp went up, then dropped, then went up slowly - the engine is converting too much energy into heat. As was said - sounds like the timing is way retarded and that will cause a loty of extra heat. If you've changed the camshaft, the factory timing settings are virtually useless. I would start at 10° before TDC and if it will still turn over well, go closer to 18°. You will need to recurve the distributor to remove some of the centrifugal advance but that costs about $25 and an afternoon. $5 if you have a mig welder.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Brilliant. That was the very last temperature problem I had to face. Now I know. You saved me a lot of time and money.
moper
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lol.. Sorry for my Captain Obvious...
My point was the thermostat is fine as are all the other parts. Retarded timing causes a lot of extra heat and that can exascerbate a lack of enough air moving through the radiator when the cam's being broken in. I use a couple large fans on my running stand. Normally at 2500rpm the car's moving at 40mph or more.
My point was the thermostat is fine as are all the other parts. Retarded timing causes a lot of extra heat and that can exascerbate a lack of enough air moving through the radiator when the cam's being broken in. I use a couple large fans on my running stand. Normally at 2500rpm the car's moving at 40mph or more.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Wasn't obvious to me until you mentioned it.
This behaviour:
This behaviour:
had me puzzled. It was the drop. I couldn't think of a correlation.
moper
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Using an infra-red temp gun helps too. A couple quick shots at the upper and lower hoses to determine the temp drop, and the upper hose or water pump housing for the exiting temperature will tell you if the engine's putting out a ton of "unexplained" heat. If the system is good and solid (meaning new stuff, fan and shroud, etc) the thermostat will control the temperature level if the system is taking in the engineered-for amount of heat and the ambient air temperature range. If there's too much heat coming out, or the ambient air is too hot (or not enough airflow for the load) the system may not be able to transfer it all to the airstream and the temps creap up.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The cooling system can't keep up with the heat........
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