Another wiring question

70Tom

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2014
Messages
1,316
Reaction score
732
Location
Phoenix, AZ
OK, car is a 70 SF still.

These three wires (purple, green, white) come out of the steering column wiring. I’m looking at my colored chart and I’m seeing nothing. I think at this point I have proven I can’t read these things worth a damn.

Anyone have an idea to what this should be connected? I’m not seeing anything and I don’t remember anything under my dash before putting it in.

CAA69A06-A2E6-441D-AE0C-16D3F13CC689.jpeg
D07FED57-826D-48DF-86B3-D442202B734F.jpeg
A3BCD3DF-475D-42A6-A2E3-5D8941ACDFBF.jpeg
 
Last edited:
That's a Female connector.
That type of connector usually connects to another set of wires with a matching male connector.
Instead of looking on your wiring diagram for what it plugs into, look elsewhere on the diagram for a connector.
 
Cornering Lamps.

The FSM wiring diagrams are much more complete.
 
There's also a similar connector that has four wires. That is the speed control, if your car has that option.
 
My car doesn’t have the speed control. However, all my lights work. Only thing not hooked up at the moment are the front turn signal lamps. But maybe that’s what you mean by cornering lights.

I kind of though it might have been for an accessory that I don’t have in the car but they threw in the wrong harness in the column.

Current issue—finally got the car started. However, I had to remove the fuse block to get it started. (See pic below). My positive battery cable under the hood got fair warm to bordering on hot. I have all things grounded under the hood properly. I’m pretty sure this wire was not in the battery section in the fuse previously. I’ve never had much reason to touch my cable after running the car. Is the warm pos cable abnormal? Any ideas? I hate when people mess with the original wiring in the car (as stated in another post, my ballast resistor has been bypassed, due to new style distributor).

4FA07C92-1F7A-4579-B345-8E58DD58E354.jpeg
 
If your battery was discharged partially, some heating of the positive cable would be normal. Turn the vehicle off and disconnect the positive cable. Be sure all accessories and lights are turned off, pulling fuses if necessary (don't forget the clock if it has one). Use either a load meter or a test light between the battery and the positive cable, it should not register a load or activate the test light. If it does, you have a short someplace. Reconnect the positive cable. A short that is big enough to cause heating of the battery cables is a big one (probably 40+ amps), check the harness for heating first with the key and all accessories off. If you detect heating of the harness, remove the block connector from the firewall and see if the harness cools, if it does not cool, you have a short in the input section of the harness. If the harness cools, start checking circuits by running a test light or load meter between the block connector pins and their mate on the firewall until you find a circuit that is drawing a load. This should be the problem circuit. If you detect no loads using this procedure, turn on the key and start checking for heating of the harness and which circuits are drawing a load. The FSM gives data as to what load should be present with the key on for the various circuits activated by the ignition switch. Note that you have a non-standard ignition circuit to the distributor as a result of the electronic ignition. That reading in the FSM will not be relevant.

Dave
 
Last edited:
Thanks Dave. Looks like I’ll be buying a load meter or test light.
 
My car doesn’t have the speed control. However, all my lights work. Only thing not hooked up at the moment are the front turn signal lamps. But maybe that’s what you mean by cornering lights.

I kind of though it might have been for an accessory that I don’t have in the car but they threw in the wrong harness in the column.

Current issue—finally got the car started. However, I had to remove the fuse block to get it started. (See pic below). My positive battery cable under the hood got fair warm to bordering on hot. I have all things grounded under the hood properly. I’m pretty sure this wire was not in the battery section in the fuse previously. I’ve never had much reason to touch my cable after running the car. Is the warm pos cable abnormal? Any ideas? I hate when people mess with the original wiring in the car (as stated in another post, my ballast resistor has been bypassed, due to new style distributor).

View attachment 147961

Cornering lights are the optional lights in the fender that come on when your turn signals are on. I believe they are part of the side marker lights on your car... If your car is equipped.

You car may or may not have them, but the harness from the turn signal switch has wires and connectors. Pretty normal, especially if the switch has been replaced somewhere in its life.

As far as the speed control comment, that was to head off any confusion because the connector is the same in appearance EXCEPT it has FOUR wires.
 
That doesn't look like a factory connector, it looks like a Molex connector.

The cornering lights go through the same connector as the turn signal as it is the same cable just a different switch.


Me wonder if it is even connected, maybe someone added cruise control sometime back and now it is gone, time to chase the wires.

Alan
 
Interesting. Well, as I have to fix my stupid grille again, it'll be a bit before I install the cornering lights. Maybe I'll just hook em up and see if they work. Taking the day off tomorrow to do some work, so I'll have the full day to inspect.

I have 2 other wires that I need to figure out as well. Hopefully I do better IDing those than this one. Haha.
 
OK, I'm fairly confused now. It appears the turn signal lamps and the cornering lights are different? The ones on the Sport Fury resemble the ones in the top photo (I know this because my lenses are cracked and it's $275 for a new pair of them thanks to Superbirds having the same turn signals.) I'm going to look at a photo I took of my harness prior to cleanup to see if I can see anything that would have connected to this. But honestly, I would have remembered something that "large" not being connected and would have tried to determine to what it connected. I spent quite some time putting that dash wiring harness back in the dash and making sure it was routed correctly. I'll take another look tho.

Pages from 1970_Plymouth_Service_Manual-2.jpg
 
Here's a pic of my harness when I first laid it in there. It's since been re-routed correctly, but you can see around the column any connectors and there aren't any that would connect into the connector in question. I think it might just be an unused connector in the column harness. I still have to figure out what that long green wire is to the left of the radio and the yellow wire with the black connector directly under the radio is. Other than that, I'm good to go! :p
IMG_7606.JPG
 
From one of my stripped New Yorkers...

View attachment 147997

View attachment 147999

If you don't have Cornering Lamps, it's a "dangler" I would guess.
Of course a test light would... :rolleyes:
He has a 1970, unless the change happened in 1970 it would be the same as my 69's

I just downloaded the 1970 Service book and it looks like it changed in 1970, amazing how the factory service book answer questions.

Alan
 
Last edited:
He has a 1970, unless the change happened in 1970 it would be the same as my 69's

I just downloaded the 1970 Service book and it looks like it changed in 1970, amazing how the factory service book answer questions.

Alan
They made a few changes in 1970. I think it's got a lot to do with the ignition switch being moved to the steering column that year... and yes, the FSM really does answer a lot of questions... especially when compared to the generic wiring diagrams out there.

Here's a pic I stole from Can Critter of his 70 Fury harness.

20170622_223002-jpg.jpg
 
Thanks John. So Critter's just hangs around unplugged as well. Haha.

Thanks everyone for the help. Now I need to determine if my battery cables are too hot. Off to Harbor Freight....
 
OK, I'm fairly confused now. It appears the turn signal lamps and the cornering lights are different?
I see you figured out your issue.

Cornering lamps are always in the fender, pointing to the side.

And FYI, ya'll - I found some wiring errors in the 1970 FSM when I was fixing a burned wire in my 70 300. I don't remember the details, but something in the underdash schematic for Chrysler, tilt wheel, no cornering lamps was WRONG. Not wrong, as in my car isn't wired this way, it was wrong in that they showed a circuit that either would not function as shown, or showed a short-circuit. It was the equivalent of a typo. I spent 8 years designing electrical systems for utility trucks, and I remember looking at it several times, over multiple days, to make sure my assessment was correct.
 
I see you figured out your issue.

Cornering lamps are always in the fender, pointing to the side.

And FYI, ya'll - I found some wiring errors in the 1970 FSM when I was fixing a burned wire in my 70 300. I don't remember the details, but something in the underdash schematic for Chrysler, tilt wheel, no cornering lamps was WRONG. Not wrong, as in my car isn't wired this way, it was wrong in that they showed a circuit that either would not function as shown, or showed a short-circuit. It was the equivalent of a typo. I spent 8 years designing electrical systems for utility trucks, and I remember looking at it several times, over multiple days, to make sure my assessment was correct.
No doubt that there may be errors, but I've found them to be the most reliable and complete source. The colorful wiring diagrams offered elsewhere seem to be missing bits and pieces.

It would be great to try to identify that error if possible. I'm not doubting that you found one, just thinking that it could be really beneficial to someone chasing a problem.
 
Back
Top