any tips for removing stuck torsion bar

Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires

  1. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Now you have to buy the same side, or just buy a pair.
     
  2. Cazman

    Cazman Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Mr. Fix It (member) has some used torsion bars for me, but we are not sure if they will swap.

    Mine is for a '68 300 w/440
    His are from a 73 Chrysler Newport 4dr sedan 400BB

    My numbers stamped on the TB are:
    621L BDZ
    620R BDZ

    His are stamped:
    623L CNV
    622R 482
    All are 47" & black coated

    How do we know?
     
  3. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    The L and R go toward rear I believe. Measure them with some calipers. Even cheap harbor freight ones are good for things like this.
    Bigger diameter will be fine. I would not go smaller.
     
  4. Cazman

    Cazman Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    So, the part numbers do not matter. Just the length and diameter?
     
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  5. commando1

    commando1 Old Man With a Hat on the Porch FCBO Gold Member

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    As are the most important things in life are.
     
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  6. Cazman

    Cazman Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    They are .960, so I guess all I have to do is match that diameter.
     
  7. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    The pair I have is .985"+-.0001"

    Just a bit heavier of a bar.
     
  8. Cazman

    Cazman Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    umm. not sure what to do here. Go to the heavier bar? Sounds like the police version was even heavier, so I guess the .985 should be ok.
     
  9. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    do your research and go with what your gut tells you to do. :thumbsup:
    the thicker bars will give you a slightly firmer ride.
     
  10. BigblueC

    BigblueC Senior Member

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    With that little of a difference I doubt that you would notice a difference. As long as they fit and y'all agree on price I say go for it.
     
  11. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

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    Looks like a 2.6% heavier TB. A good and mild upgrade. . .
     
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  12. Cazman

    Cazman Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Thanks for the input all.
     
  13. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    The numbers shown are the last three digits of the full part number.

    Screen shot from '68 parts manual.

    T-Bar 1.jpg

    '73 parts manual.

    T-Bar 2.jpg

    The diameter of the various bars are also listed in the FSM.

    They don't list a '68 FSM here, but I assume you have one if you've gone this far. They do list the parts manuals though.
    MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference
     
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  14. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Like going from a 318 bar to a 340 bar on a A body. Just a tick stiffer, not bone jarring.
     
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  15. Cazman

    Cazman Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Yes, I do have a FSM. And yes, the diameters are in there. I did not see them before. Thanks.
     
  16. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    YES!!! This was exactly what I resorted to 16 months ago when rebuilding my front end. I gently heated the rear socket until the 50 yr old grease started to flow, then hammered on my oak block torsion bar tool and DEUS LAUS! ET GRATIAS A SANCTUS IOSEF! the bar moved. Once started, it got progressively easier. I probably will work on it again within another year, as I want to further improve my suspension.

    Heat works, when applied with care.
     
  17. Cazman

    Cazman Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I have found that having two people is better. One person uses an impact wrench on the tension bolt (screw in then screw out multiple times) while the other taps the bar out. I think the rotation of the bar has to be perfect to some out.