I got to be driving age when vinyl roofs were first used on T-birds and such. A very deep-grained vinyl in comparison to what became "the norm" a few years later.
As I was waxing the top of our '66 Newport Town Sedan, I came to be of the orientation that IF I ever bought a car, it would have a vinyl roof so I wouldn't have to wax it! That "first car" I bought was my '70 Monaco Brougham 4-dr ht and it had the dark green factory roof, against the medium green metallic paint. Much better to put ArmorAll on a car wash sponge for application and then wipe off with a bath towel! Only issue was if it rained before the stuff had enough time to absorb and the windows became streaked with ArmorAll.
Later, as the rust issues with vinyl roofs started to appear, plus the discussions of how to best care for them ("preservative", no preservative, etc.). Other than looks, the vinyl roofs tended to quieten the cars and dampen any resonances from the "bare roof".
Now, the '66 Chrysler is white/white/tan interior. When I got the chrome shined and waxed, it made the car look much better!
For what you have now, I think I'd leave it "painted" as is. BUT work on getting some body side moldings on it! Plus the factory pin stripes, in the interior color! ONLY factory stripes for that model year. NO LX-Challanger V-6 stripes, either.
And, of course, a set of Magnum 500s would help things along, too!
As for waxing the top? I bought a B&D 20V 6" orbital polisher the other day.
I can take the Fastops either vinyled or painted. It's more about the body contours than what's on them, to me. Get those side moldings replaced! Rocker panel moldings?! Factory accept paint stripes on the far-upper sides of the car, too.
ALSO, knowing that the currently-available vinyl roof fabric is about 1/2 as thick (in total thickness) as the original were, Total durability will not be what it was with the original factory coverings. "Gause back" rather than "padded back" and the vinyl itself might be the same grain, but the dimension of what's under the grain to the backing is less than the originals, too. Even so, with care, it would probably last 10 years, just not 20-30?
The vinyl can be reapplied at any time, but getting those moldings can be much more time-sensitive in nature. Get all of that on the car and then make your determination of "Vinyl or Not Vinyl"?
CBODY67